Due to issues with my current slant six k-member in my 70 Duster (the LCA shaft hole is wallowed out), and the fact that I have QA1 LCA and UCA and strut rods already, I figured I'd just get the k-member from them too, which they have for this year. They go on and on about how it is a direct bolt in, etc. Well, we're picking it up tomorrow, but I suddenly realized, that despite their marketing, this thing probably doesn't have the right mounts for a slant six. It says it supports small block mounts and aftermarket mounts, but somehow I doubt this is going to work. Anyone have any advice, or ideas on how to mount the slant six onto something like a small block k-member? Luckily my wife is a journeyman boilermaker and a reasonably good fabricator.

_________________
1970 Plymouth Duster, 198 Slant Six, Super Six setup w/ EI conversion

http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gal ... p?album=34

If I recall, the passenger side pad might be the same. The driver's side is different, so maybe you can get away with fabbing only 1 mount.

If all else fails you can put it in on a motor plate.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Schumacher says the driver's is the same, and the passenger will need to be fabbed. I guess we're in for some fun. I'll update with info and pics so if anyone does this at least it will save them some time.

_________________
1970 Plymouth Duster, 198 Slant Six, Super Six setup w/ EI conversion

http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gal ... p?album=34

I think all you'll need to fab for the passenger's side is a big spacer.

_________________
Joshua

you could get a fron motor plate too.

probably not realistic for a street car.


if your wife is a good fabricatior the why not have her fix the original frame? a lot less $$$ and hassle.

but if you want less weight and the cool factor qa1 would be the way to go.


not hatin here, just thinking aloud.



I hacked up and fabbed up my own stock k frame for my drag car project..
check on the 2 links to see.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... &start=900
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... &start=915



I thought about qa1, but could not get a weight on it and I could not afford it with everything else I was doing at the time.


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Hey Greg, what steering column are you running on that? Did you just take the outside tube off of the original?

_________________
1965 Plymouth Belvedere II Turbo Project - SOLD
2002 Subaru OBS
1995 Lexus LS400 Race Car

Here are 2 links that Explain what I have done with that.

Read 2 pages of the first link and then some more trickery on the second link.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... &start=540


http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... &start=735



Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Nice. It's really just a compromise. Fixing the wallowed out hole would have required cutting out and replacing that whole section, and then getting it exactly square with the other side, or doing both sides and getting them both square to the original measurements. Ultimately it seemed like a lot of work, and although I'll be paying the credit card off for a while, the QA1 frame seemed like the quickest solution. We're on a real time crunch to get out of Oklahoma and back to the homestead. Rent here is like $400 a week and we are no longer getting per diem so the car is the only thing keeping us here right now.

We cut the perch, lowered it the right amount, which I don't have handy at the moment, but it was pretty drastic, and then welded on a new plate to the top of it that rests at the original angle but much further out. The slant six mount is further towards the fender and much lower than a small block. So basically, cut the perch at the angle of the original mount plate, but much lower, weld on a new plate which has the same type of oblong hole for the mount bolt, and refit. Some gusseting is probably in order as well since the new plate is about 2.75 inches longer towards the fender. The real trick is going to be whether the arm of the QA1 that bolts to the rail is going to hit the oil pump. It is VERY close on mock-up. I might have to cut a small chunk out of the arm so the bolt of the oil pump doesn't hit it. OR heat and beat. More info and pictures to come. Here's a couple though.

By the way, don't try to hoist the slant six with eye bolts from lowes. They are rated for 600 pounds, but we had one twist right off like pot metal, and the chain almost cracked my wife's skull open.

_________________
1970 Plymouth Duster, 198 Slant Six, Super Six setup w/ EI conversion

http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gal ... p?album=34

Greg I see you're from Irwin. I'm originally from up around Salem/Youngstown Ohio and Indiana, PA. I used to run a 68 Polara at Keystone with my buddy Bob, who ran a yellow Coronet.

_________________
1970 Plymouth Duster, 198 Slant Six, Super Six setup w/ EI conversion

http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gal ... p?album=34