I found a super six dizzy , and I've dismantled it and am cleaning it up for a rebuild. I already had converted a Cardone one to the .380 slot and new springs, haven't even tried it yet, but anyway...now I have the real deal.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... 1.jpg.html

The body looks to be in good shape and the shaft has very little play, nice and smooth rotation but tight tolerances, seems like its in very good shape.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... f.jpg.html

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... e.jpg.html

Of course it'll need a new drive gear, but the internal parts look to be in great shape and I have the spring kit to replace the stock springs.

The vacuum can unfortunately has stopped holding vacuum, so I'll have to use an aftermarket can. I have Bendix cans new in boxes. They are "VH-410" and have "AH 11" on the inside of the bracket that bolts to the dizze and the arm is stamped with "8.5R." Are these OK to use?

Another question is the hold down bracket was just a pear shaped piece with a single bolt into the dizzy body, not like my '67 which has the underneath bolt (that's where this one bolts) and the bolt that goes into the block for regular adjustment. I assume that I just use my '67 adjustment hold down bracket, is that correct?

thanks all,

Brian

Yes everything can swap, although if you can find a hold down "claw" from a 1979-1987 slant six, this conversion will allow you more adjustment compared to the 'slot' plate you have (and you never have to mess with the bolt on the bottom of the body again).
AH-11 is the typical stamp seen on the can equivalent to the SMP VC-239, which used to be for the super six distributor, since production is now crap, the arm is stamped 8.5x giving a whopping 17 degrees of advance, compared to the old versions and OEM supersix can which had the 11x arm and 22 degrees of advance.

OEM bodies are better because the caps fit perfectly on them without hassle...I see in the picture that yours is missing the clamps in the pics, which can be problematic in two ways... if you pull the cap in car, you might lose one side when it lets go...it's hard to get them staked back into place as the 40 year old aluminum pot metal tends to crack upon nailing it to dent the metal...you can deform the eyelet in the clamp, but that also sometimes won't hold either. (I tend to send cardone my bodies that didn't make it after trying to fix the clamp issue).

-D.Idiot

I have the clamps, I was going to try to get them to stay in, as you said, by deforming the aluminum (again). I figure if I use a small enough punch, and go really slowly I can get it to deform maybe 1/2mm without cracking...who knows!

Anybody have one of those clamp style hold downs?

brian

I could make one if somebody has a good picture or two...

Does anyone have a clamp to hold down a super six distributor? Anyone have a picture of one?

thanks,

Brian

the small block one looks really close...

https://www.yearone.com/Mopar/Dart/P4349278

but will it work like the original?

shown in this thread: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 9618ccc596

thanks all,

brian

No the 'claw' is just a little too short and it will not clamp right...the big block version is a bit better but you'd have to pull out the die grinder and cut off the angle and shape the back of the clamp to fit better....

With all the slant sixes deployed over the years, you'd think somebody would make or have this piece available...

I can fabricate one I suppose.

brian

There are a ton of aftermarket hold downs, I wonder if anybody knows if JEGs or Summit have one that'll work...billet or otherwise.

If I find one, I'll be sure to share the info here.

b

So, I tapped the closed side of the arm pivot with a #6 machine screw tap, then installed the arms with #6 SS screw.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... a.jpg.html

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... f.jpg.html

I didn't have the correct length, so I cut off the extra.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... 7.jpg.html

But this fix worked better than I thought it might. The screws are snug and the arms move freely. I put a bit of green penetrating thread lock on the end of the screw to keep it in place, but it wasn't loose at all, the head was snugly seated in the opening and flush with that side, nothing protruding. I had filed the side where the screw head seated only to clean it up from where previous owner(s) had beat on the area to apparently reinstall the spring clamps. Anyway, my method works well without worrying about reshaping the metal or cracking it.

Then I installed my new drive gear.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... 7.jpg.html

Next I chose the blue and green spring combo.

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... 4.jpg.html

Almost done, just need to figure the best vacuum can to use...and install the guts...can't wait to try it! My slant runs really good but I don't yet have the benefit of getting my advance all in earlier. Should pep it up a bit more, faster response, from what I've been reading on the boards.

brian

I've been pulled away from my super six dizzy project, I was just waiting on the later style clamp down and got distracted by rear end work. I'm running on old 2.94 ring and pinion from a '68 belvedere while I get NOS 2.76's put into the 742 case I got from Sergio (thanks Sergio!).

Anyway, I was looking for a quick improvement project and there was my freshly rebuilt distributor in the top drawer of my tool box .... in less than an hour I was turning the key. WOW, what a difference! Not that my slant ran bad or anything, but it was missing that quick response due to the woefully over strong factory mech advance springs. The super six dizzy really smoothed out the power influx and made it more and sooner. According to my timing gun, I have the base timing at 10 deg advance and the total is about 50 with vacuum advance. Thanks so much to the board folks for all the discussions on ss dizzy and rebuilding it. I have the 11 degree vacuum can and it's not too much at all, my car idles more smoothly and has very good throttle response. No pinging or obvious issues, it really is a better pacemaker for my dart's ticker. I've inadvertently laid a little rubber at stop lights, where this was a rare event with the old distributor. I don't know if that means I have more hp or just more power sooner. I haven't checked my mileage yet, but I suspect it can only help.

bg

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