But with the emissions stuff and vacuum advance disconnected no one taligates me anymore! :shrug:

And once you get the vacuum advance working with the correct carb your fuel economy and performance will greatly improve.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I need to start the Holley 1920 project.

This is not an exaggeration.
When i got my truck vacuum advance was not working, cost me 6 miles per gallon.

Dave

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86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

are you able to get pics from under the hood?

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Sure, what areas?

around your distributor and around your carb. nothing too close up. just wanna have an idea of whats going on. Are you using your charcoal canister?

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Ok
Yes I'm using the canister but I'm pulling vacuum directly from the EGR port! Not sure what effect that is having Someone will know here.

Not sure how much pics will help because I have advance, EGR and air pump disabled. Its a mess right now under my hood.

The charcoal cannister uses 3/8 or 1/4 inch hoses, the EGR port on the carb is a tiny little 1/8 or 1/16 nipple. There is no way charcoal cannister hose would atach to the EGR fitting on the carb.

Use this diagram to tell you what hooks to what port on your carb (if you click on it, it gets bigger):



Note that your carb MIGHT have both a ported vacuum port for the distributor advance AND a manifold vacuum port for the lean burn computer. If you are so lucky, you can just cap the ESA port and hook the distributor to the ported vacuum port. But be sure to verify that it is a true ported vacuum port with a vacuum gauge.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

What is ESA?
and
See the Idle Set Screw? I have that solenoid removed. I thought it was for fast idle when AC is engaged. I don't use the AC right now.

help!

ok try this one



This closer tot he one i keep on my phone. I run a standard transmission so I am missing the dashpot. This is the generic holley 1945, there is no electronic components in 1980 (we at least mine doesn't have it)

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ESA is "Electronic Spark Advance", more commonly referred to as the lean-burn computer. If your carb originally had the idle stop solenoid, it WAS your curb idle screw. If you have removed the solenoid then you don't have a curb idle screw and you must be using a misadjusted fast idle linkage and the fast idle speed screw to control you curb idle speed.

Without the solenoid, the only way you will be able to have the engine idle is by using the fast idle speed screw to control the idle speed. Howeber, on a properly adjusted carb the fast idle cam moves to a point where the fast idle speed screw can no longr contact it when the engine is fully warmed up. That is why there is a curb idle speed screw. If you are using the fast idle speed screw to control the curb idke speed, then you fast idle linkage is misadjusted to the pint of allowing the fast idle cam to not move properly and remain in contact with the fast idle speed screw when the engine is warmed up.

I strongly suggest you reinstall the solenoid and adjust your carburetor correctly.

Here is how to set the curb idle speed using the idle stop solenoid:

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

thanks Reed

So why a solenoid?

Two reasons:

(1) if you have AC, turning the compressor on at idle puts a bigger load on the engine. The solenoid has a plunger that extends when the AC compressor engages and raises the idle speed 75 RPM or so to compensate for the increased load on the engine. Pepole who drove AC equipped cars back in the days before idle speed solenoids remember how idling with the AC on and the car in drive woudl lead to the engine dropping to a very low idle and sometimes stalling out.

(2) On quick decelleration the solenoid plunger can extend and keep the throttle from closing completely and preventing the air/fuel charge from "loading up" or becomeing too rich.

The solenoid is really a good idea and a handy thing to have on the carb.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.