Okay so, I have 2216 on the metering rods, number 864 on the discharge nozzle screws, and either 386 or 396 on the jets themselves but its reeeaally hard to read, even under a magnifying glass.

I did polish the accel pump bore and the step-up piston body with some 2500 grit. I used a heavy spring from an edelbrock accel pump and the 8" vacuum spring for the step-up. So far the first start up, warm up and test drive was a huge success! The throttle response and the amoumt of power she has is unlike anything I have felt yet. Very happy!

Thank you again so much for all the info and guidance so far. I think I'm finally on the right track to getting her tuned right and couldn't have done it without all the help!

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"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

I have a page with links to carb manuals, linked from the engine FAQ, http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43724, but I notice that a link I provided to the BBD manuals has been modified, it is now packed as a .zip intead of a .pdf. (it becomes a .pdf when unpacked) That makes for easier download! There you'll find the listings for each carb number for each year and car model. The correct link should read:

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Chrysl ... 65to79.zip

(and it is an absolutely correct reference; they still miss that n i Manuals... )

matv91, I hope you don't mind if I add a copy of the metering rod table to my page above.

BTW, I also have a 7-8° slack in my timing chain, timing jumps all over the place...

Olaf

PS. Also note that the pump stroke adjustment for carb# 8136S and 8137S is different from the other BBD carbs in '78. Se page 22 in Chrysler_Carter_Carb_Mauals_65to79.pdf.

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Aspenized

The differences between the 225 and 318 BBDs at the SuperSix introduction in '77, is described from page 26 -> on, in the Carter BBD operation and repair manual

Olaf

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Aspenized

I have the BBD manual, downloaded that a while back but havnt read it in a while either. There's just not much straight forward info on what jet/rod/spring combos came on what vehicles. I found numbers and sizes all day long but just had no clue where to turn.

It is doing waaaay better since matv91 lead me in the right direction on the different combinations. Also most new parts are really hard to find without having a collection of carbs. She starts easier, has tons more power, and I can finally jump into traffic without worry. Shifts are stronger and I can drive her without a problem when she's cold in the morning. All from a simple little spring! The spring in it was too light and she would lean out at part throttle, so I slapped the heavy spring from Edelbrocks spring kit.

_________________
"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

OLAF that link wil be just fine. I am glad to hear the Good News. More info later.

On the accel pump, I noticed some BBDs have a clip on them that holds the spring on, and I've seen some that the spring rests against the bowl cover. Is there a right way or wrong way here and how would I know with my particular carb? The clips not on it now, but I do have a couple spares from old rebuild kits.


Good idea on the edebrock spring. Early 77s no clip, running production change, later carbs got that purple spring and clip. So 78 should have clip. Works either way. Sounds like its working leave clip off. What part no for edelbrock spring? Looked at three carbs ,no difference in carb tops. Looks like using the clip would compress the spring more. Looks like the plunger shafts are different between early and late. Clip wont fit early plunger, falls off.

I don't have a p/n for the accel pump, just had one laying around and cut the platic apart until the spring came off of it. This carb had the clip, but my old one did not and I've tried both carbs both ways and so far this has been the best pump shot yet using the edelbrock spring without the clip. I'm always trying new things and always open for other ideas. I feel there is a lot of potential in this carb now that I've gotten this far with it... May have to start collecting them so I have some extra parts to experiment with.

_________________
"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

Little late chiming here, but about the timing chain... from my experience, it looks like the original chain has some play since new. I replaced the time chain in my /6 with a Rollmaster double row timing chain. I also bought a Comp Camps one, just in case. I noticed that both the old and the Comp Cams chains had some play, similar to the one you described (and the old chain was as long as the Comp Cams one). The Rollmaster is tight. I don't know if that slack was built in purpose in the chains (please chime here, I'm curious), but since having the Rollmaster, I'm having some backfiring at low RPM when decelerating or at steady RPM in 1st or 2nd gear with no load (no hesitation while accelerating, gently or hard). Is that common too? (Counting that I installed the chain properly...). I need to check distribution before going back to the chain...

So oldskoolracer, from my experience is normal having some play in the OEM chain, so your problem might be more related with carburation (as suggested by everybody else). If anybody has a different opinion, please let me know.

PD And if you want to use the Rollmaster, remember machining the back of the crankcase sprocket, it is too tall.

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Yea it was definately carb related. I know that a small amount of slack is normal, and depends on the chain design and supplier as far as I know how much is acceptable.

_________________
"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

864 on the discharge nozzle screws Thats a wrong number. The 800 series numbers did not start till 1980. Carter no 101-569 {says 569 on the screw} is what should be in the carb.The cross over number for 569 should be 101-850. So adding a pair of 569s to the kit .Found a set of 75-2228 metering rods the right ones for auto. V8 and slant vacuum pistons, both type metering arms all will be in kit. Plus a venturi cover assembly { idle feed and main system air bleed}.The venturi covers look the same,idle feed the same but air bleed much different. Baffle and the little springs on vacuum piston also in kit. Need any thing else?

As far as I know I wouldn't need anything else. Sounds like all that would get it back to correct specs. What kit is it that your talking about? Something you do personally?

_________________
"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

edelbrock spring without the clip. Thats good detail and that will help others.Nice simple mod and can be un done if need be.

back to correct specs. Yes that the idea. That way Ill know whats in the carb for sure.Some thing you do personally . Yes but parts are in limited supply.

I'm always trying new things and always open for other ideas. I feel there is a lot of potential in this carb now that I've gotten this far with it... May have to start collecting them so I have some extra parts to experiment with. I got parts and tuning ideas, We have had good results so far. There is more potenial in that carb. Have to tune for Ethanol. Lets keep on tuning.