Ok, so I had to recently replace the exhaust manifold, rebuilt the carb, and replaced some gaskets. Then, me being me, I decided to replace the plugs and the points and the condenser. I removed the distributor to replace the points and condenser and replaced it. Tried to restart it, nothing except turning over and over. Here comes the stupid questions...

1) the rotor buttons angled point is facing straight up. Should the point be on or near #1? I may have rotated the distributor shaft and got it all out of whack.

2) the firing order is 1,5, 3, 6, 4, 2, ???
3) if that is firing order, stupid question here.....is my number one sitting about 5'oclock in my dist cap?

4) then from there, the plugs just simply follow in the above mentioned order?

Here's my plan and someone give me a little insight. I'm about to push this thing out in the street! I know that this is simple for some, but for me it seems that it makes too much sense and should be fairly straight forward...

A) I'm going to remove the plugs and check to make sure they are gapped at .35
B) While they are out, I'm going to rotate the fan and try to find TDC using long extension with tapped over end so not to scratch piston head. When the extention moves out a little, I'm going to assume that is TDC.
C) THen I'm going to remove the distributor again and rotate the shaft so the pointed part of rotor button is sitting over or very near #1.
D) Set my points at .22-.25 and replace cap.
E) Put back in plugs and wires.
F) Try to start...

Sound anywhere near what I need to be doing?

Sounds like you have it except for the following:
Yes, the rotor should be pointing at #1 (about 4' O clock if the distributor is installed correctly and you are indeed on #1 TDC with both rocker arms loose- pull oil cap or valve cover to check).
Oops almost got it...153624...the old saying was 15 too young, 36 too old, 24 just right...
It should be 4' O clock near the vacuum advance if cap were installed.

Assuming you are installing them in a clockwise manner around the distributor cap, and #1 is at 4'O clock looking directly over the passenger side fender.

Good to see you are going back over the basics to make sure you got it all, and sounds like you are pretty close.

Good Luck,

-D.Idiot



[/quote]

thanks for the info. I did everything above and I still don't have anything. just turns over and over. I checked the spark from the coil wire to the shock tower bolt and there is good spark. I took the float bowl cover off and there was fuel in there. I'm not the smartest person in the world, but to me it still sounds like timing. I guess i'll just have to keep moving, setting, adjusting til I get pissed off and quit. thnx

after reading and reviewing a little more, I'm not sure I am not out 180 deg. on my button location. I used the rachet/screwdriver set up and set the dist to that point, but I didn't use a compression gauge or thumb gauge to make sure that I'm on the TDC compression. I'm still new at this engine stuff and trying to figure it out as I go. before I go buy a spark tester and TDC tool, I think i'll try to have my daughter bump the key a couple of times for me to see where I am.

me again...haha. Ok, so I've just about talked myself into buying a TDC tool that goes in the plug hole.
1) Is there a certain one that has the threads to match the plug hole?
2) how far do I screws the bolt part of it down to not damage the piston and know that it is at the correct height to open/close?
3) do I rotate one way til it stops and mark it, THEN rotate the other way till it stops?

Then mark it, and half way in between is TDC...(which if you damper has slipped may not be even close to the OEM mark on the damper.

Nashvegas99: I wasted my money on the CompCams one. Not long emough, and it floppy/flexible (the angle the spark plugs have with the piston top do not help either). I could not feel a crank stop when turning the engine with it installed, and extended as much as possible. Hopefully somebody has an alternative option.

_________________
/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Ppeople make their own using an old spark plug shell, a bolt, and a tap. I bought mine from Jegs. It cost about $8, but it was worth it.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66792/10002/-1

It says this is for Chevy engines, but as far as I know the thread and size of the spark plugs is the same as the slant.

Well, after thumb in the hole and daughter bumping, was out 180deg. Corrected that pretty close...corrected to wire placement 153624 and readj points off of high lobe edge....turned key over and POP OUT OF CARB. So, the. Turned dist a little towards block and turned over and....lowe and behold - the freakin batt showed 7 volts crankin. Now i have no clue if im close or not until i get a new batt and try to kill that one turning it over and over.

ok, really stupid question and need a pretty quick answer....on my balancer, I have a dished out are on the front of it closest to the fan. Is that the timing mark area?

I have spark, turned over and it just cranks and cranks. I'm not sure that I've got the right timing mark. I'm so over this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the reason I ask is that there isn't a line that goes across the two edges and that area had some kind of yellowish chalk on in. I see no numbers or lines to line up with the tab on the block

The curve cut out of the damper is not the timing mark. The timing mark is a straight cut across the groove for the belt on the damper. By now the original timing mark is proabbly buried under decades of crud and grime.

Do the method of wathcing the valves and getting the piston in the ballpark of TDC. Then get a flat head screwdriver and drag it along the outer edge of the damper in a counterclockwise pattern starting at TDC. Eventully you will catch the notch in the damper that is the timing mark. The timing mark can be tricky ti find on the early engines. I had a 64 Valiant years ago and it took me some time to find the timing mark.

Once you find the timing mark, put a stripe of white out on either side (or white paint) so you can find it easily again.

Thanks for your patience. I found what i think to be the timing mark. If that mark is setting on zero, in theory would fhat be TDC? Im going to repull the valve cover and watch the valve/spring to open and close and follow the earlier directions to see if i can get it to at least try to start. Then jf hat doesnt work, im gonna spit and cuss and kick then put in the old points and condensor. Thnx again

If the timing mark is lined up with the "0" or TDC mark on the timing tab, then yes, the engine will be at TDC on cylinder #1. The problem is that if you go solely by the timing mark you haveonly a 50% chance of being at TDC on the compression stroke. That is why you have to watch the valves before you watch the timing mark.

Cylinder #1 is the one closest to the radiator. The intak valve is the second valve back from the front of the head.

You can do it.