Ok,ive taken the valve cover off and rotated and watched the intake go up and down, and Ive regapped everything. When my timing mark is at tdc...where should the rotor point be facing? 4 oclock or what?

alswo, the distributor cap has the number 1 on the inside of it but it is up at the 10 oclock point is that right?

Follow the wire from #1 plug to the cap, that is were the rotor should be pointing. Cant say for sure what "clocking" position it would be, that depends on how the dist and wires have been put on over the years.

For the number inside the cap, I would ignore that. The only important thing is that it points to the tower that leads to plug #1...

_________________
"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

Oldskoolracer is right- the direction the rotor point is arbitrary, so long as the rotor tip is under the plug tower hooked to the #1 plug with when the #1 cylinder is at TDC.

That being said, most people run the spark plug wires with the #1 plug tower at about 4 o'clock, almost directly above the clip for the cap next to the vacuum advance pod. So, with the #1 piston at TDC the rotor should be pointing to about 4 o'clock or slightly before.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I freakin give up! I've tried everything possible and every combination possible. I cant get it to fire. I took the plug out and ground it over w/ a nice orange spark. I've got fire, just not kickin over. I don't know what else to do. part that pisses me off is that it ran before I changed the exhaust manifold and the points and plugs.

Have you tried starting fluid or anything down the carb when trying to start it? You know your getting spark, it may be weak, but its there. Ignition isnt the only thing that will cause a no start.

Try a little starting fluid down the carb with the timing set to TDC and see what happens. I have a feeling its not ignition related as much as you think it is... Remember, it takes air/fuel, compression, and spark to make an engine run so you have to verify all three of these things in a no start situation... I wish I were closer, Id be happy to lend a hand!

_________________
"if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
78 Plymouth Volare Super Six wagon
89 Volkswagen Golf GTI 16v
92 Chevrolet K1500 5.7
98 Ford Escort ZX2 zetech

If you have points ignition there is a good chance you dont have the right dwel or gap. Orange spark is weak....blue spark is strong.

Did you change the condenser?

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

the carb was removed and gaskets replaced. there is fuel in the bowl. I have poured gas down the card and starting fluid to no avail. yes I changed the condensor.

not sure that this is supposed to happen....the air tube hole where the filter and breather set are pumping gas back up and shooting out of the top.

By air tube hole do you mean the throat of the carburetor?

If you have gas spitting out the top of the carb then it sounds like your timing is way off.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Any chance of a picture of the "air tube hole where the filter and breather set" I'm just not getting a visual. Nonetheless, I'm pretty certain it's not supposed to do that

It would be a big help if you could learn the names of the parts you'r describing. We were all newbies once upon a time, but it can be hard to guess which "thingamabobble" is being referred to even for us crusty old farts with a bit of experience A real factory service manual will give you the proper terms. In the short run ('cause I hear your frustration of "I want this dam thing fixed NOW!) pictures would help us help you.

You might well find a friendly nearby helping hand if you contact these folks: http://www.musiccitymoparclub.com/

BC

_________________
'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

Did you gap the points?

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

yes I gapped the points @ .18

now my battery is dead again.

Isn't there a notch in the cap near the #1 tower that fits over a tab on the vacuum advance pod at about the 4 o'clock position?
If his is 180 degree's out at the 10 o'clock position will the cap even seat right on the distributor?

Dave

_________________
86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

Unless he has a 1979-1987 holddown the older slotted hold down won't allow you to put the dizzy body in that position and bolt it to the block (in which case the rotor would be out of position, and it would need to be pulled and reinserted in the correct position.).

Couldn't he have the distributor in correctly with the rotor and the advance at around 5 o'clock and the cap 180 degrees out and not seat properly?

Dave

_________________
86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg