I tried to insert a picture but I couldn't get it to copy. The "tube" I'm talkin about is thte tube that comes up from the fuel bowl and has the rubber vent on it. I have a manual and I can't find the official name of it. sorry. but, I replaced the battery and turned it over and over and fuel will shoot out of there. I went back to the old cap, points, and condenser and it didn't make any difference at all. it's like it's not even catching. a couple of days ago, there was one back fire through the carb and that was it.

if you wanna email me the pics i can post them for you.

weesers1006@hotmail.com

just emailed you thnx

Sounds like the bowl vent tube and a misadjusted or failed float.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I also think I read somewhere that the metal gasket between the manifolds should have the middle part cut out. I didn't do that...would that have anything to do with her not starting?

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/carb2_zps367d7221.jpeg" border="0" alt=" photo carb2_zps367d7221.jpeg"/>

<img src="http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/weesers1/carb_zpsba63cb36.jpeg" border="0" alt=" photo carb_zpsba63cb36.jpeg"/>

Exactly...or needle and seat are stuck open due to something else...

I just dont know what to do anymore. I am pissed off at mysef for having a running car before i repalced the ex mani and a few faskets in the carb. It was running rough before b/c of the broken manifold, but at least it started.

Calm down. Take some deep breaths. Step away from this project for a few days until you can relax and gain some perspective.

If it ran before you worked on it, the most likely something you did made the engine not run. You replaced the manifold and the points, condenser, and plugs. You know you at least have spark and fuel is getting to the carb.

You have done a thorough job verifying you have the timing set at TDC and the points are gapped correctly.

You say you have sprayed a bunch of starting fluid down the carb and it won't start. You also say that fuel is spitting out of the bowl vent tube.

Try this. Remove the carb form the engine and let the engine sit overnight. Pull all the plugs out, clean them, and leave them out overnight as well.

While the carb is off, replace the needle and seat and replace and/or adjust the float to the correct setting. While the float bowl is open, check how clean it is. If you see bits of dirt or other foreign material, do a full rebuild on the carb. Disassemble it completely, soak it in a dip tank, blow out all passages with compressed air. Reassemble with new gaskets and set everything to the correct settings.

Put the carb back on the engine. Put the plugs back in the engine. Before cranking the engine at all, fill the float bowl with carb cleaner by sparying it down the bowl vent tube (that is the tube that has been spitting out gas). Just spray about a 20 second shot of carb cleaner down that tube.

Then try starting the engine again.

Report back what happens.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks reed. Ill take it off tonight and pull the plugs. Should i take the metal gasket back out and cut that center portion out of it? The gasket that came off didnt have i t in it?
So, if im getting spark to the number one plug, im at least part of the way there? Now i just have to assure it is tdc and then work on the carb? I gapped the points @.020 and the plugs @.035. Ill redo the bowl float level to 3/16 of an inch? And ill put the old needle set back in it since it was running before?

Ill report back what i find. Thanks for your patience. First slant 6 ive dealt with.

Are you talking about the gasket that goes between the intake and the exhaust? If so, just leave it alone.
Yes. You have spark, but it sounds liek it is weak spark. However, the fact you have any spark at all menas the components are at least working.
Yes. Make sure the rotor is slightly before the #1 plug tower when the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke. Then focus on the carb.
I would keep the new needle and seat and set everything to the specifications listed in the carb rebuild kit or the factory service manual. It has been almost two decaes since I messed with points (other than to convert to electornic igniton) so I don't know the correct gap off hand.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I still think the point gap may be your problem. Your best bet for correct gap is a dwell tachometer.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

HEI converersion and call it a day.

Dave

_________________
86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

23 thousands if I remember correctly. Go on you-tube, watch the guy adjust his points in his slant van with a dwell meter. Good stuff and easy to do.

well, I at least have enough spark to light up my timing light. I really don't know anymore. I thought I was halfway educated about this stuff, guess not. I checked the oil and it smells like there is gas in it. and the hits just keep coming......