Depending how hot the manifold is getting now ....coolant at 160F through the water box might make it run cooler.

Fancy types might make a stand alone cooler......Clifford .....heater type hose to heater core in special frame beside radiator.....back to Clifford. Coolant moves by thermosyphonic .....

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Sam,

I have an Offy manifold with dual 2bbls, Dutra Duals and I had some heat soak issues (but no clearance issues).

My Webers run on low fuel pressure so a heat shield was the answer for me.

I used simple sheet aluminum from hardware store and it works great, although I intend to make a prettier one eventually. I screwed the sheet to a piece of plywood and cut the holes with a jigsaw. I had designed some of the holes too big, cut out too much area so I back filled by pop riveting some smaller pieces to cover excess space (e.g. see rectangular slotted piece in front of front carb). Also, I added a 45 degree (from horizontal) piece along the length where the exhaust manifolds bolt to the head, that seemed to help a bunch by deflecting heat from that area.

I had tried dual 10" electric fans, and they cooled the engine fine, but the engine bay got really hot. The mechanical fan cools everything well.

pm me if you have any questions.

Brian

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Brian, That looks great. In fact all your work is inspirational to say the least. With EFI I think the goal is to keep the injectors cool, and I am not sure what is the best way to do that. I read with interest the thread on reversing the coolant flow in a slant, but was not at all clear on how one would do that. According to Joshua, reversing the flow of the water pump still puts the water in the same path of circulation.

The heat shields on mine start at the head, and then wrap down under the fuel rail, but the injectors are still exposed to radiant heat as well as the heat from the head itself traveling into the manifold.



The problem here is I designed it to go over the intake, and so it traps the heat from the exhaust. I have since removed the outer part that extends over the exhaust, and left the part that goes under the fuel rail. I am sorry this photo is not very clear. This is all going to change as soon as I wrap my mind more fully around the goal.

I am interested in the plastic boxes on the fenders for electrical connections. Are they fuses, junctions, bus bars? Are automotive applications, and where did you get them? Some of the non automotive plastic junction boxes I have tried in the past have melted.

Sam

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Hi Sam,

Sorry, I missed your question about the boxes. These are junction boxes for carrying high power from the battery to other fuse boxes/relays. They are found in high power automotive stereo systems.

I got them at Sonic Electronics, see:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i205 ... locks.html

I believe I have this particular one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCOSCHE-EFX-BLO ... 1228302793

You can run a battery cable directly into it then 10 gauge out to aux fuse boxes, relays, whatever. The fuses are AGU type, shown here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i261_agu-fuses.html They come in 60-100 amps so you can run a pretty decent fuse box off them, just make sure the fuse box has the proper capacity to handle the load.

I put this power distribution block in for eventual install of the Sebring power seats, possibly headlight upgrades, good stereo or whatever is a power suck. I had my electric fans going through it, but eventually didn't use the electric fans (I still have those if anyone wants a REALLY good deal on dual 10" electrics with thermostat, relays and all wiring; I'm not using nor planning to use, and they are just sitting in my garage ).

brian

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Also, you need the distribution block style battery terminal. I have this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EFX-DCLAMP-CAR- ... 5400d4a4a9

You can run your full gauge cable to the starter, run another full size to distribution block and smaller ones out of the block.

brian

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