1968 dodge dart 4 door. Column shift

So I took my car to have two wheel cylinders that popped into big-o to do the brakes. They were the closest shop I could roll to and still stop and the manager had a thorough understanding of what to do with the drivers side wheels when I was there for tires. He offered to do both cylinders and new brake shoes on both parts for $300. I did it because I had to get back to work and I hate dealing with drums. It took them three days and two days in, he broke a brake line, had a new one made and installed. No charge, and all came out to $283. I'm glad I didn't deal with it.

Went back that day because brakes wouldn't let go. I stopped then had to mash the gas to get rolling again and brakes smelled like burning. Pedal could be barely tapped and brakes would slam. They rebled the system for free and readjusted. Felt way better after, but then the brake lights wouldn't shut off when I parked. Eventually that problem just stopped after I moved the brake pedal in and out. Still does itoccasionally.

I always watch mechanics when they work on my car even when doing an oil change. Jiffy lube is used to me hovering by the garage door while they work. I usually don't trust my car to mechanics and now I don't think I will again - becausenow my left turn signal ddoesn't function either. It worked fine till I parked it at that garage. Then when I leave, I notice no workie. The right blinks, and makes a tone, the left is silent and the rear light only stayed on. The front I opened up and the bulb had fallen out. I inspected it, and put it back in. Both leads were fine. I turn the signal on, silence and now front and back left stay lit up. I opt to replace both bulbs since they're only 25 cents a piece. Replaced them both and same issue.

The right still functions perfectly. My question is what's the next order to check? Is there wiring under the car or along the rails that could have been bugged up during the work? Because honestly its odd that it worked fine and now doesn't. On my car in the past the turn signal would blink toofast and that was how I knew a bulb was out. I've never had them stay on though. I'm not sure what to so with that.

Wires to brake lights and directional signals are all inside car, and run under carpet, and out through fire wall at bulkhead connector. If the brake line that runs from master cylinder to right front wheel attached to fire wall was replaced that repair may have disrupted the wires at the bulkhead connection somehow.

Blinkers not working could be just a bad bulb in front, a bad ground at any of the bulbs on the side of car not working, bad wire and or socket, or directional switch failure, and is probably not caused by brake repair excepting bulkhead connector disruption.

Brake light staying on could be caused by bleeding procedure somehow disrupting brake light switch that is activated when brake pedal is depressed. It is a little button that is depressed when brake is not being used & popps out when depressed, so if the brake pedal hangs a bit lower for whatever reason the switch alignment has to be adjusted to contact brake pedal lever when not in use.

You should consider acquiring a Factory Service Manuel and doing your own work saving a ton of dough on each subsequent repair.

Just my 2 cents:
Brake work is not difficult; parts are cheap and readily available for most of our old cars. For the price you shelled out for two cylinders, shoes, drums and a chunk of brake line you should have gotten a steak dinner & movie for two, and a tank of gas as well.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I agree. I did not want to shell out any money and have always done all work myself, but to sit and deal with it I would've lost out on a really high paying couple day gig. I'm a carpenter, so when there's work I really gotta take it.

Either way, I made the mistake of letting someone else fix it, but just trying to see what could have gone wrong. I'll readjust the brake light switch easily enough and then check the side marker lights. I didn't think to check them and I'll see what the grounding position looks like at the lights. They also resurfaced one of the drums while they were at it. Im not unhappy because the car stops now. All at once I had to exit the freeway and mashed the brake pedal through the floor and the car didn't react. It barely stopped with both feet on the pedal so I tried to increase some distance by slaloming. Ihad a kind of f.it attitude then so iI just rolled it into the closest shop.

I just kind of wish I could've done it myself, but its more trying to fix what is wrong now. Perhaps they're unrelated, but that's why I'm fishing here before I get all mad at the mechanic when they didn't break it. I'll check the firewall pass through. Would there be a way if the switch is broken, than one side function and the other not?

Anything is possible. I always do the fix or fixes that have no cost to next to nothing cost first. Chances are any cleaning of electrical system connections can only improve its performance, and reliability.

One trick you can do to test a sloppy directional signal switch is to gently pull back its lever in direction of steering wheel switch when problem side lights are energized, and see if the light or lights start to work. If this trick works, switch is too sloppy and unable to make reliable connections, and needs replacement.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

That sounds like a good trick. I'll test it out. I am in the same boat - mechanical thought - not parts changing, so I always start with free first. Eliminate all possibilities, then replace the culprite if there is no other explanation.

Change the flasher.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

The symptom of not flashing on one side says that that side has significantly higher resistance that norma, usually casued by a missing bulb or blub with broken filamentl. Recheck the bulbs that are in all the positions left and right, and compare them to see if they are the same. The flasher has to work the same if all the bulbs are the same left to right. Also check your indicator bulbs in the dash and if you have them on the hood, check those too. As last resort, change the flasher.

With the description of the brake pedal sticking after the repairs, then it is time for a new MC. You have crud and rust in the MC and it probably got moved around with your stomping on the brakes when one half of th system failed. and with all the bleeding.