Musta fixed some odd bridging short somewhere or the old switch had a very erratic or odd problem. Always bugs me to not know why, but you look to be on your way. Good deal.

BTW, is your tank somewhere around half to 3/4 full at this time? I ask since the .08 A drain form 12V works out to be around 150 ohms, which is close to mid range in your sender's resistance range.

Hey Mr. NM9,
Nothing got changed other than the Toggle Switch swap. Would like to figure out what is going on with the OLD Toggle Switch just to know. It checked perfectly for continuity. And when it was in the Circuit, it could be checked for Amperage. Isn't there a check that might tell something by checking the Ohms and resistance?
Know what you mean.
Just got back from the pharmacy and Post Office. Lorrie did fine. Ever since she has been refurbished there have been a bunch of teenincy details that have cropped up. In many instances it was terribly inobvious. For example, Lorrie has one of Daniel's HEI Ignition Systems (Mopar Distributor, General Motors Control Module, Ford Ignition Coil) and the Control Modules wouldn't last. Traced that to the "mechanical" Voltage Regulator. Changed to an "electronic" VR and it all straightened up. Each glitch was patiently dealt with till the problem finally disappeared. Am now waiting to see what Lorrie comes up with next!
Having just been out and about, and considering that the Pointer is a "floater", with the switch OFF, the Pointer is just under the 1/2 tank mark. With the Switch ON, it goes down to just above the 1/4 mark. Turn the Switch back OFF and the needle goes back up to just under the 1/2 mark.
The 0.080 Amp reading was taken BEFORE going to Livingston yesterday. That was about a 28 mile round trip. This morning before swapping Switches, the reading fluctuated between 0.078 and 0.079. Probably caused by the fuel being lower and the sender's resistance being less.

Something that was noticeable with the OLD Toggle Switch was that with the Switch OFF, the Pointer would go up and down as the gas in the tank would slosh around. It happened when accelerating, decelerating, or turning. A number of times I could zig and zag back and forth to make the Pointer fluctuate. It was VERY sensitive. It didn't do that today after the installation of the NEW Switch. Wish it would be that sensitive with the Toggle Switch ON!

Anyway, everything seems to be copacetic. Will let you know if the Pointer will now go below the 1/4 mark with the Switch ON.

Take care.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Well, if the switch has any sort of metal case, you can check the resistance from the case to both contacts with the switch on and then off. Resistance to any metal case should stay very high. (Like hundreds of thousands or over a million ohms.)

Hey Mr. NM9
I'm in very serious learning mode. Let me detail what has been done with the Toggle Switch that was removed which solved the problem. Still, not knowing why means that the mystery deepens.

First things first: This is how the Radio Shack 29-Range Multimeter was set up:

Have the Red Probe's Connector in the 440mA port, and the Black Probe's Connector in the -C Port.

Have the Dial set to "middle position" (the one with the little upside down horseshoe that is the symbol of "Ohm")

Have hit the "Select" Button till the Digital Display says "OPEN". This is to test for continuity.

Touched one terminal on the Toggle Switch with the Red Probe and the other terminal with the Black Probe with the Switch OFF. The Digital Display says "OPEN".

Turned the Switch ON, and the Digital Display says "SHORT".

So the Switch is working.

Then:

Pressed the Select Button.

The Digital Display says: ".0F" (don't know if this is a "zero" or an "oh"), and there is a teenincy "V" in the lower right hand corner of the Display.

With the Switch in the OFF position, touched the terminals with the Probes and NOTHING happened. Held them there for a while and still NOTHING happened.

Put the Switch in the ON position, and touched the terminal with the Probes, and got a reading of "0.000" on the Display.

Pressed the Select Button and got a display of "0.F" with a little "M" in the lower right hand corner of the display.

With the Switch in the OFF position, touched the terminals with the probes and the display still says: "0.F".

With the Switch in the ON position, touched the terminals with the probes and the display cycled through a bunch of number faster than I could read them or write them down, and it just kept going and going.

Pressed the Range Button again and the display says "0F." with the only the Ohm symbol in the lower right hand corner of the display.

With the Switch in the OFF position, touched the terminals with the probes and the display says: "0F.".

With the Switch in the ON position, touched the terminals with the probes and the display showed a bunch of numbers finally settling on a "000.2", or "000.1", or "000.?" (some other single digit).

Pressed the Range Button again and the display says ".0F" with a little "K" in the lower right hand corner.

With the Switch in the OFF position, touched the terminals with the probes and the display says: ".0F".

With the Switch in the ON position, touched the terminals with the probes and the display cycled through a bunch of numbers and finally settles on "000.0".

Now, just in playing with the Multimeter, I notice that when there is an "M" in the lower right hand corner, that pressing the Range Button gives a: ".0F".

Press it again and it gives a "0.F".

Press it again and it gives a "0F." with nothing (no "K" or "M") in the lower right hand corner.

Press it again and it puts a "K" in the lower right hand corner and gives a ".0F".
Press again and it gives "0.F".
Press again and it gives a "0F.".

Also, checked the OLD Toggle Switch between the Terminals and the metal part of the Switch Body, and it came out to have no reading whether the Switch was ON or OFF.

I haven't a clue as to what all those readings mean.

It's one thing to have a Multimeter. It's another thing to be able to access all the functions. But it is something ELSE to know what all those numbers mean.

But, notice that there was NEVER a reading on the Digital Display with the Switch in the OFF position!

That doesn't bode well, does it? Doesn't that kind of mean that there is ABSOLUTELY nothing wrong with this switch?

So just to double check what was done with Lorrie, went out, disconnected the Ground Cable from the Negative Post of the Battery, put the Red fitting of the Multimeter into the 10 Amp Port, tested between the Ground Cable Fitting and the Negative Post and got a reading of 0.000. So there is no "leak" with the NEW Toggle Switch.

The mystery continues, even though Lorrie is not leaking electricity with the NEW Toggle Switch.

I know that this is long and detailed, but it's a learning situation, and can't be done any other way.

If this is going to be a hassle that you might not want to deal with, that's alright. At least Lorrie is OK whether I know what's happening or not.

Anyway, thanks for the response. Hope you are well.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Did your multimeter come with a manual?
That's going to be your best friend in learning how to use the meter and understanding what it's telling you.
You should be able to find one online if you don't have it.

For example, that little 'v' in the corner tells you it's looking for voltage.
Basically, on that setting it becomes a 'listening' device, to see if an energy source is 'out there'.
However, it can't find any in that switch because it is out of circuit (no energy source).
All those flashing numbers are its attempts to 'autorange' - adjusting its sensitivity to see if anything is there.

What you need to do instead is go back to the 'little horseshoe' (Greek letter Omega, to represent ohms) setting.
In this case, the meter itself becomes the energy source (using its internal battery) and sends a small, measured amount of current to the probes and then calculates the resistance (ohms) of whatever they touch based on the amount of current that comes back.
That is why testing for resistance works best when the component is out of a circuit.
If it was still in a circuit, you could end up reading the resistance of wiring or some other component in the circuit instead of or in addition to your intended specimen.

If the switch was causing the drain, as seems to be the case, likely there is a partial unintended connection (not a zero ohm reading ('SHORT'), but not infinite ('OPEN') either) inside the switch.
To find out, test for resistance (not voltage) between each terminal and the case itself.

_________________
O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Mmmm, if you are seeing 'F' in the units dispaly, than you have selected a meter function to measure capacitance, which is measured in Farads. the small v is probably the greek letter mu which is used for microFarad, 'm. woudl be for milliFarads, etc. For checking the switch, measring capacitance is meaningless. But the 29 function meter I found does not show that it has a capactiance function so I can't explan that....

When you are checking for resistance, you should have the balck lead in the COM port and the red lead in the right-hand port for volts and ohms. (You should not have it in any of the ports for current measurement only, like the 10A port.) The selctor switch should be in the middle position with the [omega] symbol (as you had it). Press the select switch 'til the omega symbol shows for reading low resistances (like when the toggle switch is on). Press the select switch 'til the k[omega] or M[omega] symbols shows for reading high resistances. Don't use the 'continuity' funciton for reading high resistance; it won't give you an actual value.

Hey Mr. SITH,
Yes it did. In fact, this is the second Radio Shack 29-Range Multimeter that I've bought, and the first one came with a large sheet, printed both sides with instructions.
Have tried a couple of times to understand it. I run into the problem of not knowing what they are talking about. Am certain that for those who know what the terms mean, the instructions are succinct. It is probably possible to look up and find out what the terms mean, but the only time that it is necessary to understand the instructions is when there is a problem that needs fixing right away, and at a time like that, immediacy is paramount. There is also another factor. So little of this kind of thing is done that how to do it may be learned, but since the knowledge isn't used very often, when it comes time to do it again, the knowledge has escaped me.
Alright.
Alright.
Alright.
Which is the case with the OLD Toggle Switch. It is sitting here on the bench.
Alright.
That is what is suspected.
Alright. Am going to do that right now. Am going to set the Multimeter with the Omega in the lower right hand corner and test the Terminals with the Toggle Switch both OFF and ON, and test from each Terminal to the metal part of the Switch both OFF and ON.

With the Toggle Switch OFF, and the Probes touching the Terminals, the Display showed "0F.".

With the Toggle Switch ON, and the Probes touching the Terminals,the Display showed 0.003, then 0.002, then 0.001, then 0.000, and then it went back and forth between 0.000 and 0.001 a number of times.

With one Probe touching one Terminal or the other Terminal, and the other Probe touching the metal part of the Switch, the Display showed "0F." with the Switch both ON and OFF.

At no time was there anything but "0F." when the Switch was in the OFF position.

Question: Is 0.000 = Infinity?

With the results of these tests, would you say that there is nothing wrong with the Toggle Switch?

Anyway, thanks for the response, and the information.

I'll hang in here if you'll hang in there.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

Hey Mr. NM9,
The "F" appears in the same Digital Display as the Numbers. Nowhere in the User's Guide does it mention Farads.
According to the User's Guide, the way we are setting up the Multimeter is to measure "Resistance".
Alright. Did this, and have reported the result of these tests in the response to Mr. SITH.

Have just gone out and tested Lorrie's Battery. It is at 12.74 Volts after having sat all night and all day.

Also tested between the Ground Cable and the Negative Post of the Battery. It is still showing 0.000 Amps.

So while there appears to be nothing wrong with the OLD Switch, the NEW Switch is NOT leaking.

You think we will ever find out where the .0080 Amp leak was?

Anyway, thanks again for the responses.

Take excellent care.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

'OF' is open circuit, infinite resistance (confirmed with leads touching nothing).
0.00x is closed circuit, no resistance (confirmed with leads touching each other).

You should be able to find a book or webpage that can introduce you to Ohm's Law and other basics of electricity.
Perhaps you can also find a training manual to give you more information about using a meter.

Don't give up on it, because once you can make that meter jump through hoops, it will be your best friend.

_________________
O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Hey Mr. SITH,
Could you tell me why there is a ".0F", a "0.F" and a "0F."?
Alright.
And I should do that, among my many other things that I should do. Your information about the Multimeter looking for Voltage and supplying Voltage was like a light going on in my head. That never occurred to me.
That too is probably something I should do.
Little by little. Thanks to you and Mr. NM9, I know a bit more already from just this one incident. And hopefully Lorrie will stay fixed as far as this 0.080 Amp leak is concerned.

Thanks again for taking time to respond.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

That moving decimal point is the autoranging function that was mentioned.
Some meters require the user to choose the correct sensitivity range using a dial or such (up to 2, up to 200, up to 20,000, etc), but the kind you have sets itself.
It is trying different ranges in its attempt to measure something.

Kinda like it's saying, 'Ready when you are, Sir', although they are not always that respectful.

_________________
O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Hey Mr. SITH,
Had a comment from another auto forum (FordMuscleGalaxieForum) that the Radio Shack 29-Range Multimeter is a VERY complex unit for an inexperienced (at electrical stuff) user like myself.
That's exactly what this other poster said, and the problem with it doing that is that I don't know WHAT it's doing. It's doing it on its own which is easy for the experienced user, but it just produces mysteriousness when it does it for me because I don't know what it has done.
As was mentioned in the present thread here on SSF, the range that needs checking is in the 150 Ohms range because 0.080 Amps at 12 Volts is about 150 Ohms. I looked in the User's Guide, but it doesn't mention anything about how to set up the Multimeter to look in the 150 Ohms range. Am assuming it's doing it automatically.
Well, the Radio Shack 29-Range Multimeter seems to be a VERY nice little unit. Although there IS one feature about it that is kind of IFFY! With the meter's dial in the OFF position (all the way to the left), the first click to the right is the setting to measure Voltage. The second click to the right is the setting to measure mA (milli-Amps), and has a limit of 400 mA. The meter also has a feature that will turn it OFF after about five minutes if left on and not used. Well, one time I was going to measure the Voltage of a Batter. Had forgotten to turn the meter OFF the previous time it was used it. That was not noticed. So the dial was already in the position to measure Voltage, but the meter was OFF. I clicked it one notch to the right. It came on, but THAT set it to measure mA. Touched the probes to the Battery Posts and blew the meter's fuse.

Now I know that all that was MY fault. BUT, I suspect that the designer of the unit is unaware of it being able to happen (or maybe not). It would be better design if the Volt setting were the first click on the dial, and the mA setting were the sixth click on the dial instead of the second click.

THAT mistake won't happen again, as I have learned to check the setup instead of just blithely clicking the dial. Still, I'll bet that I'm not the first person to have that happen, nor will I be the last one.

I mentioned this to a fellow here in town who is a computer tech, and who has a Radio Shack 29-Range Multimeter, and he agreed with me that it would be BETTER design to have the mA setting as far away from the V setting as possible instead of being adjacent.

Nonetheless, the RS 29-R unit is a spiffy little piece, the features of which just keep dawning on me as time goes on.

Anyway, thanks for the information and for taking the time to respond.

Hope this finds YOU doing well.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor