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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 11:51 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Hey guys so i have my slant with some mild modifications.. Mild cam .435 lift 318 valves and super six setup with elongated 1bbl kickdown linkage. im having issues getting the engine to open up or rev up when in full throttle it seems to just go or the time seems no to advance when i need it to open up. i dont know if its the vacum advance canister not working or if the diaphram is ripped or if its the linkage. i have checked vacuum and at idle im pulling close to 20

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 3:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 03, 2014 11:20 am
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Hey guys so I love NooCube and have my slant with some mild modifications.. Mild cam .435 lift 318 valves and super six setup with elongated 1bbl kickdown linkage. im having issues getting the engine to open up or rev up when in full throttle it seems to just go or the time seems no to advance when i need it to open up. i dont know if its the vacum advance canister not working or if the diaphram is ripped or if its the linkage. i have checked vacuum and at idle im pulling close to 20
I'm having this problem too. Did you figure out what the problem was Jose?


Last edited by SlantJoe on Tue Feb 08, 2022 4:05 am, edited 7 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 4:38 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
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Location: Downeast Maine
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i dont know if its the vacum advance canister not working
When throttle is opened during acceleration vacuum advance drops off at which point static & mechanical timing is the only timing input. Once a slant reaches around 2500 to 2800 rpm mechanical advance is all in. So its not a vacuum advance problem.

Some other things to check:

Check that when accelerator is fully mashed down to floor that the throttle plates are fully open. Or, is there some obstruction preventing throttle fully opening?

Static timing may not be set optimally, and or timing mark on damper is not correctly positioned causing false readings. Engine unable to receive enough advance to be able to rev-up. Check TDC at #1 to timing mark on damper.

Mechanical advance weights may be sticking, not free to move, resulting in no timing advance. Which makes me think to check if inner workings of distributor are free to move in addition weights swinging out as rpm increases; this would be the plate that vacuum advance is hooked to. To easily test remove rotor cap, disconnect vacuum advance vacuum line from carb and suck on it; observe any movement (plate should rotate 10 to 15 degrees.

Advance curve may need to be changed to better fit modified engine's needs. This requires fiddling with different spring rates retaining mechanical advance weights in distributor.

Valve lash setting needs to be checked. Remember first three cylinders run EI, EI, EI, and the back three run IE, IE, IE; wouldn't be the first time three of the setting were accidently reversed... LOL Intake and Exhaust valve setting could be the stock (0.012" & 0.020"), or if an aftermarket cam is installed it may be a different lash than stock settings. Also if an after market cam, cam lash listed on cam card may not work perfectly on your engine and have to be dialed in.

Cam may not be degreed correctly.

Start with the easy stuff first.

Oh, and welcome to the site Slant Joe.

Bill

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