I took some 1/16" aluminum sheet and reworked a heat shield. The old one had lots of holes I didn't need. This one is correct for only those bits that cross the plane of the shield. Also, I reworked my linkage, put the kickdown cable on a vertical bar so it has less stress on the cable. FYI

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... sort=3&o=0

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Looks good.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I have a new connector block, plugs and male/female connectors for the firewall wiring to go through, that's in my to do list...I just have to have the patience to do all the connectors and wiring in one go, I think there are like 25 wires at this point.

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Looks good. Are those the carter weber 2bbls?

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Tom
'86 Alfa Romeo Spider, red "Dinsdale"
'10 Corvette, red "" (no name yet)
'95 Ferrari 348, red "Zoom"
'04 Maserati, black "Evil"
'05 Aston Martin DB9, green "Bond, Treasury bond."
'82 Dodge W150 Power Ram, yellow "E. Valdez"

Those are 32/34 DFT 2 bbl.'s Weber. You can buy the matched set from Tom Landgon's shop here: http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/ ... ory=361512

They are only $95 per carb and they work perfectly for 225 cu inch as they were originally made for 1.8L 4 cylinder (1.8 x 2 = 3.6L). I used them "as is" no rejetting, but Tom has alternate jets if you want. I set the linkage to match butterfly opening/closing and used a snail gauge to match air intake both at idle and higher rpms. Also, I put a bung in each exhaust down pipe, set AFR with wide band sensor. Once they're set, there's no further adjustment; haven't had an issue since install.

NOTE: Use a low pressure fuel regulator, like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-804/overview/

If you run mechanical fuel pump pressure (6-9 psi), they'll flood on sharp turns (at least mine did). I set my fuel regulator to 4 psi, and have had no problems whatsoever, and plenty of fuel on acceleration.

PM me if you have further questions. I used Tom Langdon's linkage kit and then custom built my own parts to hold the throttle and kickdown cables. I used the factory (existing, slant six) throttle cable and a Lokar kickdown cable.

I'll post my heat shield dimensions eventually; I'm tinkering with the best fit. I'm really close with this one; just need a couple of tweaks.

Fun stuff.

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

K&N makes air filters for the 32/34 DFT, but they didn't fit exactly, I had to take about 1mm of material out of the aperture so they'd seat on the carb O-rings.

Also, Tom Landon sells air cleaners for these, nice chrome round ones.

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Looks great, nice clean engine and engine compartment.

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Grandpa's 1974 Dart Custom 4 door 225 auto, Aluminum Radiator, 1920 Holley.

almost forgot, Fast Road Cars UK has the phenolic gasket blocks. I had to buy four, I sandwich the heat shield between two of them on each carb. No sealant needed, they are reusable, 7mm thick with gaskets bonded to each side.

http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/inde ... ductId=101

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2