I've been working on this 65 Valiant trying to get it roadworthy. It's a 66 170 in my 65 Valiant. I just recently replaced the carb with a remanufactured unit from Summit it is the correct list number 3054. It starts easier on some days than others. It idles good, got a small exhaust leak at the manifold to pipe flange gasket. No too rich smell while running, no smoke. I've got the timing at 2.5BTC and the idle at 550RPM. You can drive around the yard and you can gradually acclerate and it will be fine but if you full throttle and let off the gas it will shut down. Then it's flooded when you try to restart it because I have to hold my foot on the gas. On another forum they said check the valve clearance so I did the correct procedure but none were out of specs really. It did before I replaced the carb too. I know this choke is original because I can't find one I know that maybe part of the problem. But what else could I try? All ignition parts have been changed no older than a year.

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1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 4DR 2.8L 170CID
1973 Dodge Charger 6.6L 400CID
1986 Plymouth Reliant SE Wagon 2.2L 135CID

Have you gone through the procedures to set the float level and to set the idle mixture? Is the choke plate (at the top of the carb throat) opened up and vertical when this happens, or is it angled over, partly shutting off air flow?

Aside from checking the float level on the carb and resetting the idle mixture, you dont have enough timing in it. For some reason 7.5 BTDC is the number that rings a bell, I set mine by the seat of my pants, my car likes 13 degrees BTDC. Next time it dies
, instead of starting the car back up, check the choke pos.

I didn't check the choke position especially on this newer carb since the last one did the same exact thing and it was only a year old. I put everything back to 1965 170 Valiant specs. 2.5btc timing and 550rpm idle. It's an automatic. I tried and changed it to 5btc and it didn't do anything. I know that choke thermostat in the manifold has to be worn out, it's the original one and I can't ever find any new ones. I've asked a few local mechanics that only work on old stuff and they told me to check fuel pump pressure. I did adjust the mixture on the last carburetor as much as I could and it never changed the symptom. The guy at United Carb told me I didn't need to mess with the carb out of the box except maybe the curb idle, that the mixture was adjusted on an engine before shipping out. It doesn't smell like it's running too rich. I've got to fix the exhaust flange gasket leak at the pipe and I'm going to get an inline fuel pressure gauge tomorrow and hopefully can get it all installed. Anyone know the manifold vacuum plug thread size in the intake? I want to install a vacuum gauge in the dash.

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1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 4DR 2.8L 170CID
1973 Dodge Charger 6.6L 400CID
1986 Plymouth Reliant SE Wagon 2.2L 135CID

I would try adjusting the choke first before anything else. Adjustment procedure is in the article section.

Here http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Holley- ... _2741.html
Your carb is listed.
A much better alternitive to the choke thermostat
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... tric+choke

Dave

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86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

I definitely need to get that choke. I could use a new exhaust manifold. What about those Dorman replacements? Would that choke fit? I remember in the 2bbl conversion article it said the choke wells changed. I tried to patch up the exhaust flange gasket leak today but it's still got a spot leaking. I know Copper silicone is the correct fix but I was just trying to temporary fix until I can figure out why this thing stalls. I readjusted the choke thermostat. I checked with the choke thermostat hooked up the choke valve plate was just a little opened but when I pressed the gas before I started it put the cam at the highest step of the fast idle position. So it appears the fast idle is adjusted. This is the original choke thermostat I have so that's almost 50 years old. I neglected to photo the position of the choke valve plate. I did this video and posted to youtube on how the car sounds. This is right after I got it started probably been running 5 minutes prior to this video. You can hear the exhaust leak and then when I rev it you can see what it does. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Be0aZwPKcIo

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1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 4DR 2.8L 170CID
1973 Dodge Charger 6.6L 400CID
1986 Plymouth Reliant SE Wagon 2.2L 135CID

Well if the highest step of the choke valve plate engaged, then very likely the choke plate closed too... but next time at cold start, take off the air cleaner and push the pedal to the floor prior to cranking and check that the plate indeed closes. (BTW my old choke mechanism is 52 years old and still works fine.)

After it starts and runs 30 seconds or so, then kick the throttle a bit (no need to floor it) and see if the idle drops a bit to an intermediate idle speed. Then check to see if there is a 'springy' feel to the long rod coming from the choke mechanism, and that the rod can move back and forth. The choke mechansim rod will be pulling against the linkage from the choke pulloff (the round thing connecting to the choke plate linakge with the vacuum line going to it). Then blip the throttle by hand (again, don't floor it and don't have your face over the carb!) and watch the choke plate; it ought to open somewhat as the airflow into the engine increases.

In your video, the engine is dropping off of fast idle when you use your hand to blip the throttle several times and going to normal idle. So, it looks like you have some issues at normal idle; I would resolve those before adjusting the choke. Have you found and adjusted the curb idle screw?

On the exhaust flange leak, is the manifold flange actually eroded or damaged? I ask because the flange on the downpipe can get bent a bit by the bolts and it can leak out at points 90 degrees from the bolts. I had this and used a grinder to flatten out the downpipe flange. Then I double stacked 2 flange gaskets with just a little copper high temp RTV. (The eold connection was also made with 2 stacked gaskets.)

I think my exhaust gasket leak is near the bolts too because after I sealed it with copper silicone the leak I felt was way down except right where the bolts area. When I had everything off I didn't notice anything obvious as far as corrosion or damage. I thought about double stacking the gaskets but decided to see if I could just seal it up with this copper silicone since it seemed to work when I had to change the intake/exhaust manifold gasket. I did hit the throttle before I started the engine with the air cleaner off to see if the choke valve closes. It did all but for a very slight amount which looks to be correct. I went ahead and ordered a choke from the link posted, the oem type though because I believe my rod might be a little bent. When I got the car in 09 it had a 62 Holley 1920 on it that didn't use the spring staged choke and the previous owner had installed a pull choke and had the original choke thermostat in the glovebox. The only thing I did to the carburetor was let the engine warm up, unsnap the bell crank, turn on the headlights and adjust the curb idle speed to 550rpm as specified in the 65 service manual. I didn't adjust the mixture because the tech at United Carb said this carb is bolt on ready to go but maybe for a slight idle speed adjustment. However, I assumed that a mixture adjustment would be required anyway, I just haven't done it. I'm not too confident in getting the mixture right as I've gotten it way out of whack on my 4bbl Charger and had to take to a shop to get readjusted. I did do the mixture on the previous Holley 1920 that I just replaced here and it seems to be a little more straightforward then the Edelbrock on my Charger or even more so the Thermoquad I had on my Charger. When this 170 is tuned properly and everything is working right, even on a seasoned motor with maybe 40,000-50,000 miles, that's what I'm estimating this one has but totally a guess, how easy should it start up after sitting a few days? Right now it takes numerous cranks to get it fired up and some persuading of the gas pedal. Should it always be two pumps of the pedal and fire right up? I'm still running points too, about a year old.

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1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 4DR 2.8L 170CID
1973 Dodge Charger 6.6L 400CID
1986 Plymouth Reliant SE Wagon 2.2L 135CID

The rods are always bent in a zig-zag pattern so yours be fine and dandy. The one thing I noticed in your video at aournd 39 seconds is that the rod may be rotated 180 degrees; it is coming out of the choke housing at an angle and if rotated over 180 degrees, it would come straight out of the housing. I just wonder if it is binding due to this. Your choke rod zigs left and then zags right; mine does the opposite and comes straight out of the housing.

Try a couple of gaskets on the exhaust flange with the silcone and see how it does. Just snug the bolts and then let it set overnight and then torque down. Have you taken it apart to feel/check how flat the manifold's gasket surface is? It would be a shame to spend the $$ for a new one if not needed. Use the largest bolts you can (mine uses 7/16", fine thread) and put hardened flat washers and brass nuts.

Idle mixture adjustment is a piece of cake; it is just one screw. So don't be afraid of it. Adjust for highest and smoothest idle (then maybe tighten a tidge) or use a vaccum gauge and set fo highest manifold vacuum.

It ought to start easily with no muss or fuss after a few days (2-3-4 days). Beyond that, you might get evaporation issues. If it is hard to start after a day or 2, then that needs to be investigated. Any fuel leaks from the outside?

There is no visible fuel leaks on the carb or anywhere else. I installed new fuel lines,tank,and sending unit a year ago. I think my choke rod is bent because it felt like it was binding when I moved the throttle. I'm going to try and do a mixture adjustment and patch that exhaust leak along with my new choke thermostat I ordered. I'm hoping it will fit right.

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1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 4DR 2.8L 170CID
1973 Dodge Charger 6.6L 400CID
1986 Plymouth Reliant SE Wagon 2.2L 135CID

as mentioned above.

"The one thing I noticed in your video at aournd 39 seconds is that the rod may be rotated 180 degrees; it is coming out of the choke housing at an angle and if rotated over 180 degrees, it would come straight out of the housing. I just wonder if it is binding due to this. Your choke rod zigs left and then zags right; mine does the opposite and comes straight out of the housing. "

Make sure you have the new one installed correctly.

I know how frustrating this can be. Take your time you will get it.

I got the new choke from mike's and hopefully will install it this weekend. Just to be sure how do I make sure the exhaust flapper is working right? I've never understood what it does.

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1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 4DR 2.8L 170CID
1973 Dodge Charger 6.6L 400CID
1986 Plymouth Reliant SE Wagon 2.2L 135CID

You may have what I call lazy choke syndrome common with southern cars where true cold starts are far and few between, and folks fail to activate the automatic choke on every start as one would do in colder climates; not to worry previous advice it on right path.

I will add during a cold start, that is to say after siting overnight, choke butterfly should close with a positive assertiveness leaving no ability to flutter open & closed. Once choke sees engine vacuum it should be cracked open between 1/8â€￾ to ¼â€￾ or just a bit less than thickness of a pencil depending on model of carburetor. When throttle is opened ¼ or moments after cold start choke butterfly opening increase as throttle continues to open, and return to 1/8â€￾ to ¼â€￾ until choke stove warms activating bimetal coiled choke retraction spring. Once spring sees heat it will start to pull open choke butterfly, and eventually fully retract it.

Before starting during cold start you can manually reset choke to open by opening throttle a wee bit, while with other hand flip butterfly open and release high idle cam, than release throttle to keep choke open & throttle position off high idle cam as if it had sat all night; than reenact a simulated cold start. Do this as many times as it takes your eye to catch all the action during choke closing, and try to catch anything that looks as if it were slow to move or is hanging up.

Once you get a feel for how your choke is adjusted, you may find it is not snapping fully close which will cause hard colds starts and too fast pull off leaving lean condition until both manifolds are fully warmed up. On the other end of the adjustment spectrum you may find that the choke closing tension is too great which will still allow vacuum pull off of required 1/8â€￾ to ¼â€￾ and additional opening during throttle opening, but too slow to full retract once choke stove begins to warm which produces rich condition during manifold warm up, and perhaps butterfly not becoming full retracted open.

Choke action adjustment a tradeoff between closing too tightly, and not fully closing. This adjustment of tension is achieved by closing or opening the “Uâ€￾ bend in rod connecting bimetal spring and butterfly. It may take several cold start adjustment cycles before you hit the adjustment sweet spot.

Also all rods and linkages associated with carburetor have to be free to move with no binding or rubbing on shields. You should disconnect rod where it pivots at choke butterfly and inspect for worn notches. If notches are found dress the area with a fine file smoothing the pitch of said notch to allow for smooth articulation of butterfly particularly during closing.

Personal experience department:
During the early 70’s I had a 273 Dart that would not fully close its choke only when weather was damp, drove me nuts as I would have to open hood touch choke riser rod to get choke fully closed. One day after a month of two this mechanical harassment by my beloved ride the sun rose over Marblehead, and I figured out the problem was binding caused from worn linkage.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I verified before I started and it felt there was resistance in the choke thermostat rod. This new one I got feels a lot smoother. I will hopefully be able to install it and try it out tomorrow. Does the exhaust heat rider cause start up problems?

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1965 Plymouth Valiant 200 4DR 2.8L 170CID
1973 Dodge Charger 6.6L 400CID
1986 Plymouth Reliant SE Wagon 2.2L 135CID