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NEVjr
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 5:17 am 
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TBI Slant 6

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is there a better aftermarket replacement for the intake/exhaust manifold studs? ARP doesnt seem to have a specific set
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Dart270
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 6:19 am 
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Dorman and other suppliers make these. Go to your local parts store or a good hardware store with one of your old studs and you can get ones that will be quite close in dimensions.

Slant on,

Lou

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nm9stheham
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 6:21 am 
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Better in what way? They don't take a lot of torque or stress, so I would not assume that anything beyond a standard stud is needed. I found some hardened ones down at the local Ace Hardware in the general repair hardware assortments.
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Dart270
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:02 am 
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Yes, high strength is not needed, and the parts/hdware store ones are usually grade 8 anyway.

Lou

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Ed Mullen
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:19 am 
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McMaster Carr has them with allen wrench drive.

Probably slightly more convenient to install/remove.
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Dart270
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:50 am 
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Ooo, I need to get those. I assume those have coarse on one end and fine on the other...

Lou

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NEVjr
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 12:47 pm 
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Better in what way? They don't take a lot of torque or stress, so I would not assume that anything beyond a standard stud is needed. I found some hardened ones down at the local Ace Hardware in the general repair hardware assortments.
im thinking more corrosion resistant, less likley to get stuck and break off, etc

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=v0cfj5
are these the ones?
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Dart270
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 1:03 pm 
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The closest ones with socket head are: 94358A270

A bit spendy at $4 ea, and they might be a tad long, but fine...

I don't see the standard automotive studs, surprisingly. Local parts store is your best bet. Should be $1-2 ea.

Lou

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nm9stheham
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:26 pm 
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Quote:
Better in what way? They don't take a lot of torque or stress, so I would not assume that anything beyond a standard stud is needed. I found some hardened ones down at the local Ace Hardware in the general repair hardware assortments.
im thinking more corrosion resistant, less likley to get stuck and break off, etc

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=v0cfj5
are these the ones?
For not getting stuck, IMO the issue is the coolant behind the studs. Teflon or something to seal off the coolant from migrating around the threads is needed (locktite blue?). Not sure what metal finish by itself would improve that issue.
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NEVjr
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 9:58 pm 
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i wonder if stainless might help?
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nm9stheham
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 7:24 am 
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I would not expect so... only marine stainless has any real corrosion resistance for being constantly exposed and a lot of the SS stuff out there is pretty questionable for quality. Stainless is more brittle and prone to break. (And 'brittle' is not the correct mettalurical term... perhaps 'less tough' is the right one.) Galling in the threads is another common problem with stainless. And drilling out the remains of a stainless stud when broken off would be a really nasty exercise; hardened steel studs are bad enough.
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DadTruck
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 12:32 pm 
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.50 each, fine threads one end, course the other,, just like stock.

http://www.silver-seal.com/category/sho ... foldstuds/
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