I would not have a problem with it idling at 11-1200 RPM. As long as it runs decent once it driving who cares. I think my car idles in that range now.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I do have the cam card from Erson it came in the paperwork from the car. I also have a machine shop Bobweight printout but those two are my only clues to what is really done to the motor.

If the motor is built to the specifications Wayne (previous owner) has told me, it has large 1.7+ intake and 1.5+ exhaust valves, unshrouded and blended, and was milled for compression as well as custom valve springs, I don't think changing the cam is honestly a good idea since It may very well be a well built engine, or maybe not, but Eaither way whatever IS done to it besides the cam or to support the cam probably won't work well with somthing else, unless I put it all back to stock with a new head ETC but I know it would end up opening up much bigger cans of worms.

How would I check the position of the cam in comparison to what is on this sheet?

The car sat for 2 years or better so I'm hoping working out bugs with the carb is all that really needs doing, but I guess you never do know with things like
this.

If he had it set at 1500 rpm I'm pretty confident I can get it tuned back down to that from 2000, especially with a lot of this info you guys have all helped with! And from there I would think that another 300 rpm lower wouldn't be too much to ask right?
I'm gonna go with what Rick said, I'f I can get it to run well while driving I wouldn't much mind a 1200-1500 rpm idle, I'll just be careful with the clutch pedal haha.

Will work on it this weekend and keep you all posted! Thanks for caring! Happy holidays to everyone as well if we don't post till then

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19 Years young with a passion for all things old.

"Four doors for more....screaming passangers..(;"

"There's no replacement for displacement, but my \6 is still cooler than your V8"

That's a lot of cam.

Your going to have a heck of a time getting the power valve to work right if your street driving this build.

Have you set the secondary idle screw? It's under the passenger side of the carb if set up with a north south orientation. If it's set wrong, you won't be able to get adjustment of the mixture screws on the primary. They just won't work.

Seventies are pretty big. They may be masking a poorly tuned primary. Lock out the secondary and tune the primary. THEN tune the secondary. If a 390 won't run the car, and I"ve experienced this, you'll need to tune the secondary after, on your bigger carb. I can't run less than a 500 and get the genie out of the bottle on my long rod motor. When I push 650, the genie exits. With your build, a 500 CFM Eddy will work magic. $#!+-can the Holley unless your willing to chase the mixture every time you change altitude by 1000 feet. If your racing, disregard. If it runs good wide open, and idles, quit fussing with it.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Ceej that's great info, yes I am planning on street driving it

I do know where the secondary screw is but I thought that was only for fast idle? Maybe I'm dumb, or holleys are just weird...

I do feel like I'm chasing my tail with this carb, Edybrock 500? As in the 2 barrel or 4? Maybe I'm thinking of a Holley 500, I dunno, would a big 2 barrel make this engine more streetable though?

I'm sure it runs great wide open but I really just need her to idle a bit lower and run as smooth throughout the range as possible, max power isnt my main concern as long as I can drive it on the street without much headache (while driving)

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19 Years young with a passion for all things old.

"Four doors for more....screaming passangers..(;"

"There's no replacement for displacement, but my \6 is still cooler than your V8"

Big two barrels aren't the way to go on the street. I've not seen the 500 CFM Holley 2 bbl successfully tuned for a street application. I'm sure there is somebody out there with the patience, but that person isn't me.

Stick with the Edelbrock/Carter 500. It'll work fine. The 400 Carter is a good choice, but finding one could be a chore.

Keep us posted!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

No, I can tell you from personal racing of a 500 cfm 2 BBL on a small engine that it is not the way to go on the street. It'll be worse. Refer to my Opel story in a prior post...

As for the cam and the other parts, I am about 99% sure that the other parts, like the larger valves, would work quite well with a milder cam. These valve sizes are not all that big to start with so the port clean up and such will just help the engine work better at higher RPM's with any cam. I looked at your cam and the duration is pushing pretty well up there close to 300 degrees so it will never be a driving-around-town cam. With the high lift of that cam, the springs and such should be set up work with a lot of cams. A little detail work may be needed but I would not be afraid to head down that road. I just don't think it will ever be well mannered on the street with that cam.

As far as checking the cam timing, you need a degree wheel (buy at a hot rod shop or print one out and paste it on stiff poster board), get a 3/4" x 16tpi, 2" long bolt and washer to mount the degree wheel to the crank snout threads inside the damper (which you can also use to turn the crank), a stiff piece of wire (coat hanger) to bend and mount under a timing cover bolt to act as a pointer to the degree wheel, and some sort of dial indicator so you can accurately measure the valve height changes on #1 intake, and take out the plugs. The setup is not so bad once you understand the idea; it is making sure you are properly reading the cam car and dial indicator. There are plenty of write ups on cam timing. (I'll be willing to help too.)