Guys I understand poor planning on my part does not constitute automatic emergency on yours, but Ive got until Saturday to make my choice of paint for my original engine block. I am undecided between Dupont Imron and some kind of epoxy paint. I need an engine paint that is absolutely bulletproof and can withstand high heat. Spray bombs will just flake off after a few years and I don't want that.

Also, this is a Canadian engine and I want the color absolutely correct. It was either turquoise or Chrysler blue. Though all info I have gathered says it should be turquoise, it has never been out of the car to my knowledge and it was light blue when I pulled it. The serial number is as follows:

PT 225R 5 8

and another stamed number on the right rear of the engine, near the top of the block:

9B373602

I havent seen anyone mention that a number should be there, as far as I know this boss is only there to square the casting in the mill for machining. Perhaps it's a rebuilder's number and the color is wrong after all?

Does my engine number even correspond to a '69 Dart Custom 4dr with 904 transmission?

Sorry for the late notice guys, hope you can help me out! What are your opinions on the proper color and the most resilient kind of paint?

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

My Canadian 69 Dart came with a light blue motor about the colour of the submit button at the bottom of this page....never found a spray can match

http://www.arrowtipi.com/My%20Webs/index%20Valiant.htm

when it was new, you mean?

I actually saw a duplicolor can today that was a match to the Chrysler blue. I might pick it up to use as a sample... if it's the right shade...?

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

I repainted the Valve cover on my 77 back when I first got the car. That was 10 years ago, and about 50,000 miles... I havnt had one flake chip off it, and I dont see a bit of fading... I think when paint the Engine, its all about getting it 100% clean... I used Mopar Engine paint in the can... I will most liky use the same paint when I rebuild my 67.

my 2 cents...

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Mike C
http://cuda.iclownz.com
67 - Barracuda Coupe - 225 - Automatic

It's after Saturday, but I'm hoping this helps anyhow.

Your engine number is a little strange; there should be an "E" in there somewhere before the 225. Are you *certain* this is the original engine?

Colour's an easier thing: Chrysler Blue, which was switched to (from Red) in the middle of '69 production in certain plants. By the end of '69 production, all plants were painting engines Chrysler Blue rather than Chrysler Red, which came before. (There were exceptions, e.g. the Hemi Orange and the Turquoise used on certain V8s, but we're not talking about V8s!) The blue tends to fade over the years, so you can find yourself on a goose chase trying to match paint that's actually faded.

All the major makers have Chrysler Blue in their rattle can engine paint line. If you want bulletproof, it's worth your time to find and get a good brand like VHT. The stuff Mopar sells isn't very good, at least down in the States. They source some stuff differently up here, so it may be OK up here. Other "usual suspects" are Krylon and Dupli-Color.

Boom, you have your #s backwards. The second group should be the last 8 digits of your VIN, 9B373602. Just check your VIN tag on the dash to verify it's the original block.
9=year
B=Hamtrack assembly plant
373602= sequence #

The first group is engine size and assembly date, PT 225R 5 8
PT= Trenton engine assembly plant
225= cubic inch
R=raised block or RG, the 170 is a low block deck height or just G
5 8= May 8, the day the motor was assembled

The '69 slant6 are reported to be be turquoise. I though they were blue but after a few members posted their's were turquoise, I checked what I thought was a blue '69 225 I had, it was a '70 motor!

Cecil

Dan, no I can't say for certain now. Now that I saw the T in the engine code, I'm starting to think it's a '63. This really bums me out as I took great pains to restore it so the car's numbers match. I guess I shouldve looked at this straight off. Sadly, I got these numbers off the block yesterday, and it's just had the inside painted with Glyptal, and the exterior was wire brushed, so there's no question that I haven't missed any numbers. No worries about the late reply Dan, it's not until next saturday that I have to have the paint ready. BTW, both the light blue and the turquoise were labeled Chrysler blue that I saw, the former Duplicolor and the latter VHT, which one did you mean?

Mike, Ive been considering Imron or epoxy because Ive seen it used on industrial and marine engines and it's far less prone to rust-through and scratching than regular engine enamel. I want this engine looking new ten years from now, and I plan on driving it daily. But I'm not sure if either will stand up to the manifold heat I'll be putting it through. I dont want the paint to brown on the intake and under the manifolds.

Cecil, you're right that is strange, if the 9 is in the serial number then yes there should be an E in the other group, but there isnt.

Thanks for all your help guys. I wish this was an easy problem...

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

That T may or may not indicate a '63 engine. How many freeze plugs are located on the manifold side of the block? Three in a triangular pattern or five in a row?

The blue and turquoise are different colours and should come in different cans.

Stock factory engine paint holds up pretty well over the years on the block and head, it's on the tinware (valve cover, oil pan) that it tends to flake off...pretty good performance considering no special care was taken when the engines were being painted. If you use a good heatproof primer and take especial care to clean everything down before painting, your work will be more durable than the factory work. As long as you use a good quality paint, browning at high-heat areas won't be a problem.

Oh! That's easy, there's five in a row. Five brass ones, now

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Boom, the serial # for the car that block was originally in was a '69 and the VIN ended with 9B373602. Is this what the VIN tag on your dash ends with?

Cecil

Cecil, I just looked at the car again today, theyre not in the same place. Yes every number is a match to the VIN. So that one's put to rest, at least....

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

OK, I'm going to start making inquiries to the paint shops today. Any more opinions on whether the engine should be blue or turquoise?

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Blue. I've had good luck with Dupli-Color (spray bomb). I just put it on real thick and has lasted me a couple of years.

ok. Blue it is.

Ive spoken to a few paint shops and so far Ive been recommended PPG 97-710, which is an industrial silicone acrylic. Dry heat resistance up to 450*F. Not resistant to spills of aromatic or oxygenated solvents. ???

Gloss factor of +80 @60*. It's a thermoplastic paint, and is tintable.

What do you guys think? Sound good? Is 450* good enough to stand up to yellowing at the intake manifold, and on the block under the exhaust manifold? It's pretty expensive stuff.

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Bzzzt! Gasoline, carburetor cleaner and a bunch of other underhood chemicals are "aromatic or oxygenated solvents".
I think you're trying to re-invent the wheel. Just pick up good quality Chrysler Blue engine paint from VHT or Dupli-Color and use it!