I haven't seen the episode yet (appears it will be online 1/17 per their site) but friend told me they used this seal. Sounds fancy and expensive. Has to be good right? Anyone have any experience or comments?

They aren't giving it away that's for sure...but it looks good. Would be great to hear some first hand experiences.The last slant I built used the felpro 2 piece seal and I have nothing but good things to say,zero oil so far. I'm curious about the 2 lip design, the only 2 lip design seal I've seen is a normal v lip seal with a dust/dirt lip to protect the main seal from contaminants...I'm wondering if it has one lip for sealing the majority of the oil and then a tighter lip as a final seal? I can't imagine how a dual lip seal would work with 2 seals doing the same thing ,the inner seal would do the majority of the work and the outer seal would probably burn up due lack of oil. I assume the scrolling on the crank needs a pretty tough seal to work with it...if it was a true smooth surface there is no reason why you couldn't use a one piece seal and stretch it over the flange to install....I know the stroker cranks from Scat are smooth so I wonder if this sort of seal is already out there.

If no oil is getting past the first lip, wouldn't the first lip burn up just the same?

It needs cutting, but you can place the cut at the top instead of at the sides or down towards the oil. Stretching it over the flange? That would have to be some pretty forgiving material...

Surface finish needed is another question mark.

I know stretching sounds pretty brutal...but it's common on aircraft engines. The crank has a large flange to mount the prop onto,up to 6" diameter. You remove the spring from seal,carefully stretch it over the flange,wait for it to contract again and fit spring...normal procedure...and the seal surface is roughly 3" diameter! But the material is much more flexible than the Felpro seal I used. Earlier model engines did have a split seal,but the stretching type seal has been around for the last 30 years,but they run on a smooth surface. Even if the seal is working and not leaking,oil will still lubricate the lip....IF oil gets past the first lip and the second lip starts sealing...how does the oil get returned? To me it sounds like a bit of a gimmick but I'm always interested in learning,seal materials and technology have improved over the years so who knows I'd actually be curious to get a one piece seal in my hands,maybe soak it in hot water till it's supple and see if it has enough give to squeeze it oval shaped cover the sharp edges of the crank flange and try and stretch it over...would be interesting to try,then you wouldn't need to cut it.

This was exactly my thought as I watched them (on the show) cut the seal.
Although they did already have the crank buttoned up in place. There was no spring or metal of any kind in the seal. It cut easily with a razor bade held in the guys fingers, no knife or tool. It did look quite flexible and rubbery. Lube it up, squeeze it oval and work it on. But again, at eighty bucks?? I wonder if it crosses to an off the shelf industrial seal.

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Mattelderca
78 NYB (gone now), two S series, three old Snow Cruisers and a Doo.

Get ID, OD, width and lip design and im sure McMaster Carr has something close.

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I didn' t buy it, I built it.....