But when you get over .100 you start getting real close to the bolt holes for the alternator bracket. Sooner or later you just can't mill anymore.

Yes you do! I cut 125 off the BH Block in the Hooptie, then modified the bracket. Took one pass with a grinder!

To get back on subject, I just had a wonderful call from my favorite fabricator in Georgia. He's still working on his building. He has a great way to hit your CC's dead on.

Once you square the head up in the fixture for the cut, install the plug your going to use with drool tube or otherwise if your part of the peanut crowd. Fill up your measuring syringe with the requisite amount of coolant/grinding fluid, fill your "average" chamber up, and measure to the liquid interface. We're assuming you already did any valve work, so your not going to change things with a grind after the fact. We're also assuming your not using goober's garage, and the equipment is level.

He suggested cutting shy 5/1000ths of that depth, then rechecking things.

Thanks Scott! That makes it way easy! I'll see if I can get some time off when your ready to put your building up. Let me know when your going to go at it and need a hand!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Yes, you will have to mill more to get the same difference in volume, as before you hit the shelf, once you have hit the shelf. My apologies. The fluid volume method is a more reliable way to know how much to mill.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Your welcome CJ, I had a nice chat with you as well. I knew Greg had a burette and dial indicator, and this method I told to him and you is very accurate and eliminates a lot of unknowns.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

I Actually Just Bought one off summit.

Had to get the right tools for the job.

I am glad to have instigated such a spirited debate!

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Yep, it get's really skinny after a .125+ swipe on the 225, the bracket needs to be shimmed to fit the stock studs if the holes are still intact (or you can egg the holes if using the late style stamped steel alt brackets), but if you are going for this type of performance mod, that pesky old alternator just gets relocated to the other side of the block....but there is a push over point where you can get a thin deck on the block and it's all for naught...

(Hey Rick, you can be right too! )

I got My Summit Racing 100 CC Burette Last Night, and Filled the Chambers with 38 CC of fluid. the average Measurement was 0.057" to mill off the head.

I Used some Rubbing Alcohol With some Green Food Coloring for Tint.

It looked like I had a science Lab in the Basement.

Thanks for the Help.

Off to the Machine Shop Tomorrow armed with Info.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Good deal Greg! Will you have any idea how much total milling will have been done to your head to arrive at 38cc once this additional .057" is removed from it.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

I will have to Look at my notes from Mike as I asked him to set up my head for a 12.5:1 with my other specs... then I changed head gaskets etc.- I dont recall it being too much.. but I will have to see if it can find out.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I Found my Notes From Mike when He did the Head in 2009 or so.

He Removed 0.078" From the head when it was first done.

Plus another 0.057" Brings the Total to 0.135"

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack