may have been a year ago,,I called QT and spoke with, believe his name was Tom,, I'll dig my notes out, but he said to run a 130 tooth f/w one would need the SB housing,, the slant six version will not accept it...

I wonder if Quick Time would make an intermediate plate to fit the small block BH to a slant?

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Joshua

being able to adapt a SB housing and 130 tooth FW really solves a bunch of problems,, opens up a world of clutches and plates.. 130 tooth billet SFI flywheels are much more affordable than the special drilled slant flywheels..

I will use the SB blow proof when I go back to the 4 speed. The only real issue I see is that you will have the lower V-8 starter position. My long tube headers will not work with that location.

I know that Mark Goodman had asked if I wanted to rotate the blow proof on the adapter plate he made me, so that the starter would be in the normal slant spot. So that is an option as well.Of course you would have to re-drill the transmission bolt holes also.

It would have been really nice if Quicktime would have made the bucket big enough to hold a 130T flywheel. Sure would have made life a lot easier.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I purchased a stock clutch kit for a 93-00 EXPLORER or RANGER with the 4.0 pushrod v6. The pressure plate fits the slant six 833 flywheel perfectly. The ford clutch however does not fit the splines on the trans and requires a large step in the flywheel to clear the springs. However I still think this will work well. the pressure plate fits my 10" borg and beck clutch disk perfectly. after looking at the pictures in the sticky I can tell you that the clutch disk in the install is not the ford disk for the 93-00 explorer, but it may be a different ford disk.
I have also compared the ford throw out bearing to the mopar one and the face style of both is the same.
I am currently going to use the 93-00 ford diaphragm pressure plate with a stock flywheel (re-machined then balanced for new mounting holes)
a 10" borg and beck style clutch, and the mopar throw out bearing.
hopefully by the end of the month I can report how well it is working on my soon to be fuel injected slant 6.

Interesting! You can use a 10" SB V8 or Slant 6 truck clutch disc with your 833 trans.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Why is this thread not going to my email????

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

I have the setup in the car now. similarly to the sticky on the performance clutch install I did space the clutch arm pivot point forward. I also trimmed the edges of the mounting tabs just a little bit. I used extreme strength 12 point bolts with high collar lock washers but I think the ford pressure plate mounting bolts are probably a better option as they have a larger head and should not be the thing most likely interfering. I am not driving yet but all indications are that this should work exactly as expected.

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One big difference i found between this stock replacement pressure plate and the one from McLeod is the diameter of the rivets holding the pressure plate together. these are larger and while they do have approximately .050 in of clearance radially they are the closest item to the clutch plate. If you can find a pressure plate where the rivets are smaller diameter or are recessed from the pressure plate surface this will give you a little extra clearance. I chose to grind mine slightly but i wouldn't recommend doing it as a general instruction.

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This is a stock cast iron flywheel and you will notice that there is ample room between the bolt pattern and the edge of the flywheel. the stock flywheel is actually a little larger diameter than the mcleod. If you look at pictures you will see that the cutback for the starter teeth is deeper on the steel flywheel. This lends itself to professionally machining the stock units if you don't need an SFI flywheel and don't plan to turn high RPM.
(this flywheel is out of a 72 duster)

Everything is together and the car is ready to drive. If you look at the earlier post on clearancing the pressure plate all the things i did turned out to be necessary. Unfortunately the back edge of the clutch disk for about .030" of depth back to front and probably .010" radial depth managed to find a burr on the pressure plate housing cover to rub on. I ended up deciding to put it on jack-stands and let it tolerance itself. If you are looking to do this yourself I would suggest you double check for any burs on the inner edge of the cover and clean them off ahead of time. Overall I still think this swap will work out very well. I can't imagine the clutch slipping naturally aspirated and hopefully by summer i can tell you how it holds up to boost.

I have been driving for two weeks now and everything works well. I did end up buying a 7" clutch adjustment rod from year one as the 5" one I had just didn't give any room for adjustment.
Overall I am happy with the swap and think that most my minor issues were due to buying a low quality pressure plate.
I have a drawing of the bolt pattern I machined in as a pdf. Is there an easy way to post it or would it be better to turn it into a picture somehow?

I have put a lot of miles on this setup now and am very happy with it.
here is a JPG of the bolt pattern for the ford pressure plate.
Yes it is technically over-dimensioned.
Do not do this without proper equipment (a drill press wont cut it)
Also balance the pressure plate and flywheel.

http://s9.postimg.org/9817mqn6n/Ford10fly.jpg

I can find plenty of shops locally to surface but it's far far away in other states to find a shop that mentions balancing of only the flywheel.

There are shops locally that balance the whole rotating assembly of crank, damper, and flywheel/PP.

Can a flywheel/PP assembly be balanced as a stand alone unit?

What shop equipment do they use for this service?

I have a slant crank in for machining now in one of the local shops that has a service to balance the whole rotating assembly.

What to do?

As far as locating the holes I noticed in your flywheel picture that the Ford PP holes were not centered evenly either side of the nearest B&B holes; it appears that one of the Ford PP hole is about 1.5 inches counterclockwise of the nearest B&B hole.

Would balance be improved if the Ford PP holes were centered about the nearest B&B holes ...or not?

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

Sorry I took so long, I missed the email from this thread.
The flywheel can be balanced either with or without the pressure plate. The shop I took it to did just the flywheel then attached the pressure plate and checked it and did not have to do any further balancing as the pressure plate was well balanced from the manufacturer. I would think that a shop with the equipment to balance rotating assemblies could neutral balance a flywheel for you. Unfortunately I don't know what equipment they used as the machine shop i have personal access to is not automotive related.
For the holes the uneven offset should not affect the balance of the flywheel as each set is evenly spaced around the outside, but if I was doing it again I would take the time to make everything even.
BTW if you use the ford pressure plate mounting bolts I believe you will need to counter-bore the beginning of the hole to clear an unthreaded portion of the bolt but I am not certain as I didn't go that route.