I recently killed a HEI module and a coil.

The module went first. I replaced it with the SMP one SS Dan recommends (don't recall # offhand)

The other night I was out driving and the engine stumbled in a no-spark sort of way, then righted itself. 10 minutes later, it died and would not restart.

I picked up the Echlin module SS Dan recommends, installed it, and spliced in a 30 amp mini blade fuse between the fusible link at the battery and the HEI relay.

It didn't work. I exchanged the module @ Napa. Replacement did not work.

I tested the module for signal (test light on - coil wire, turned over, light flashes).

Echlin warantee mentions 'misapplication' so I was reluctant to buy my new coil there (I think they are already suspicious as they have never seen me with a 77 Camaro, or any other GM...ever, so grabbing a coil for a Ranger on the same weekend seemed like I was tempting fate) so I got the autozone garbage w/longest warantee.

For some time the ammeter has been bouncing way up by the 'C'

Suspecting a bad regulator, and not knowing exactly what had killed the first module, I bought a Echlin regulator on the first trip to Napa. (still not installed.)

After the coil change, and it was running, I put an analog voltmeter across the battery posts and let it idle. Battery voltage is the same alternator running or not.

I checked voltage at the big alternator post, and ground and keyed hot at field terminals.

All ok.

I pulled the regulator harness off. Still no change in voltage across battery.

I checked both terminals with a test light while running. Both hot.

I checked with it off. Both hot.

I checked with it in run without starting. Both hot.

I disconnected charging wire at battery. Neither hot.

I thought the regulator grounded the field ground wire until it reached the max voltage, then opened the circuit. Why would there be current on both terminals?

Weird thing is: I have not had a dead battery in a long time. It is evidently charging.

My harness is screwy and in the process of being replaced one bit at a time.

If something ended up getting attached to the wrong thing, I have no problem running new wires for the regulator pigtail to whatever it is supposed to be hooked up to.

Am I incorrect that one terminal should be field (-) and one should be ground?

Please advise.


(87 B-150, 4-pin HEI, ford/mazda e-core coil)

ok. Looking at schematics online, it seems that it is wired to field (+) and keyed (+ ).

I have to slit the harness and trace the field and regulator wires.

Seems alternator may have been running unregulated since last harness repair/mod.

This does not explain why voltage same running or not. (maybe alternator just died recently?)

Turns out schematic I saw online was pre-1970

70+ wired as I had originally thought.

I will clean up VR screws and screwholes, apply dielectric grease and install new VR.

I installed an electronic regulator that Dan recommended, also don't recall part number, perhaps 1001 something. Long story short, it caused intermittent pegging of amp gage to plus, with groaning sounds from alternator. The unit was defective. Unit was properly grounded, and all new conductors in charging circuit were inpalce. I reinstalled the old points type regulator and haven't had a charging problem since, about 10,000 miles.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I installed the new VR.

I cleaned the mounting holes to bare metal w/a small engine brush, wire-wheeled screws and applied dielectric grease.

needle back around 9:00 but bounces.

Old coil had 0 ohms primary, so maybe it is to blame for killing the module.

I don't know what had caused the coil to short out though.

To be fair, I just got whatever was cheap from rockauto to mock up the HEI setup. The plan was to upgrade to better stuff once the wiring harness was done, and keep cheap stuff as spares. I just forgot.

I guess the coil could've been on a shelf for years before I got it.

When I bench tested the HEI before installing, I noticed it hummed pretty loud and ran pretty hot when the distributor was not spinning.

I had made a note to go back and see if anybody posted anything about any potential harm from ignition on, engine off melting a coil, or something. I forgot that too.

GM HEI needs a good heat sink and compatible coil. Not just any coil will work with said HEI for very long before coil fails. I don't recall which coils are acceptable to be used with GM HEI in Mopar applications; there is a listing somewhere on this site.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

It's a Ford E-core coil.

Lots of people here use them w/HEI.

I use one on my brother's 83 Dodge van and it still has the stock Mopar electronic ignition. Great coil, cheap to get.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.