camiking23, the 1bbl carb opens the choke while cold using a divorced choke puller connected to the carb vacuum via hoses. So while cold, the choke is closed in idle, but it opens when you accelerate. As the car warms up it opens the choke, as it is not needed. So, the choke need to open when you accelerate. Check the carb vacuum hoses, or wait until you have a warm engine.

I'm not sure this is the only problem, but it can help make things worse: have you checked valve lash? (1977 engine, yours should have mechanic lifters). Should be 0.01 intake and 0.02 discharge, hot engine (I use 0.012 and 0.022). It is not recommended doing it cold, but check them to 0.014, 0.024 (it will get tighter as you warm up), and you need to check again and do it properly with a hot engine (there are videos in Youtube).

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Very inexperienced in what you're talking about a link could help

I thought you had a factory service manual? How about at least a Holley manual? You can download Holley manuals from the Holley website.

Sounds like you need to get "The Three Books".

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Man, you came to the right place to get info... but as I can see you might not have too much experience with the engine, which is ok, I was the same.

Your profile says you're student, engineer; so good, check the link Reed gave you in the previous comment, and get the 3 books, read them (well, read 2, and use the service manual as a reference... it is probably boring read it on one sit... )

About what I was talking about... this car has mechanical valve lifters. If they are not adjusted, valves will open and close at different timing in different cylinders, causing rough idle and unstable running; you can burn valves if they're not properly adjusted. Check on how to do the valve lash:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rn4yHfu0GxE

One question: was the car running when you bought it? It looks like no from your previous posts, just checking. I'm asking because if it was running rough before, some things needed to be checked, like lash. Also, if your car has an aftermarket camshaft, check the proper valve lash numbers for it (maybe different from the ones i gave you).

About the carb, follow the previous posts recommendations, if the accelerator pump inside the carb is not squirting fuel when moving the pedal, the engine will die. Check this with no air filter enclosure, and engine shut. Move the accelerator lever, you should see inside the carb throat (or at least hear) gas be ing squirted inside. If the pump is ok, let the car run for a while in idle (15 min) and then try accelerating again. It is warm now, so no choke is needed (if it dies is not because lack of choke).

I have not worked with the 2bbl carb, but you should be able to regulate warm idle fuel mixture with just one screw, and idle rpm with another. Are you installing the 4 bbl in the supersix? or using a 2bbl? Check your carb manual, that will help you. (you can look for manuals in the internet too, I guess you were given some links in the previous posts)

PD: about the valve lash procedure, get sure your wrench socket is not going to get loose, and fall into the head. Have not happened to me (yet), but it shouldn't be fun at all...

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Okay will do. But I changed the points. And made a mistake with the carb hoses. So I put them in their rightful spots and with the engine warm.... I took a test drive in the yard and no hiccups. All good. Well mostly. I have to get a tachometer and some transmission fluid. there's a high pitched ringing or humming noise when I accelerate. And some hesitation and sounds and feels like high rmps before it goes.

...for the tranny, you might want to pull the pan, clean out the pan, change the filter and fluid. It might be just that simple.

I had a '70 Valiant with the same symptoms, did the above and it shifted great for years after that. I had found about 1/8 inch of material sludge in the bottom of the pan and the filter was clogged.

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Cpslntdchrg:
He is in engineering, his reading list is much dryer than any book we can come up with, trust me. A ME will most likely will wet a toe in powertrain design, and such at some point. The rest of the engineering disciplines won't get to smell any gasoline in class, but we can fix that oversight.


Two mixture screws to be found on that two barrel carburetor & best to adjust with aid of a vacuum gage adjusting back & forth between each side until highest vacuum is developed.

Just one idle speed screw regulates the throttle plate stop position. Keep in mind that idle speed can also be affected by base or in other words, static timing. After adjusting lash one may or may not need to go back and fiddle with timing setting & idle speed.

I just use a box end wrench to adjust lash with a light weight leather glove; no messing around with direction button on a ratchet. You don't want too much weight or torque baring on rocker when measuring with feeler gage smaller lightest wrench is best in my book.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

High pitched noise on acceleration could be worn out rear axle or transmission gears or bearings. No fix but replacement.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

This is good... as long as you understand that point gap and dwell has an effect on the ignition timing.

Since we haven't knowledge of your previous mechanical experiences, I think it is worth mentioning. It is only meant to inform if you were otherwise unaware.

If you replaced the points and didn't check timing... you need to.

All these mechanical experiences you are having will last you a lifetime and serve you well.

Revs high before it goes??? Could be bad torque converter or simple as low transmission fluid level.

Was only low transmission fluid