So I basically need a parts list of what I need to put my A833-OD in my '64 Dart 170. My Dart is still rocking it's factory equipped 3spd on the column.

I've got the trans already, a '76 aluminum box, with the levers rods and shifter assembly, I also have a aluminum slant 4spd bell. I'm needing the covers and fork assembly and am not sure if the rock Z-bar will work.

Which fork do I need?
Will the clutch assembly and TOB from the three speed still work?
Is there anything else I need?

PS: I know I have to get a new driveshaft. I also added a 8.25" rear end which has a longer about than the stock 7.25". Is there a factory driveshaft I could use instead of having one made?

You can keep:

Your flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch and throwout bearing....

You will need:

1975-1980 A/F body bellhousing and matching clutch fork
1963-1966 floor hump from floor shift car (1967+ unit will take some "working" to make it fit 100% correctly...)
You might be able to use your current Z-bar, but you may need to relocate the ballstuds at the frame and/or the bellhousing as the late A-body is very different than the mid-A.
Slip yoke for the A-833 (some years it's the same as the A-727, a few years in the late 70's they use the A-904 slip yoke for some factory borne reason)
111" wheel base Dart = Need a driveline from a similar car 111" Wheelbase Dart (not Dart Sport/Demon/Duster/most 2-door valiants), and some versions of the 70's 4 door valiant and the car had to be equipped with an 8 1/4" rear (1973-1976), or one from a 1967-1972 with an 8 3/4" rear can also be modded.
Transmission Cross member may need a little work too to get the old sandwich mount to work with the tranny that was only used with the newer spool mounts.

Note your rear ratio too...with the light car and the OD gear, 2.94 and 3.23 will work, but you may find the rpm band too low to get any real use out of it depending on carburator and distributor calibration (the advance may be lacking or the throttle plates not open enough to get into the main circuit to make the mileage, or the rpm to be in the "sweet spot" might be at 75-80 mph...)... 3.55 gears should be fine, get good mileage, and are a real hoot to drive with even a slightly modded stocker engine....

Good luck.

What are you doing with the 3 speed? Is it the original?

It is the original trans to the car. I have no need for it.

another thing you may need is the 7" long clutch rod. this will depend on what you end up needing to do with the Z-Bar.

another thing you may need is the 7" long clutch rod. this will depend on what you end up needing to do with the Z-Bar.

I actually got my 3spd in yesterday. Went fairly smooth. Other than getting the right driveshaft, my holdup now is figuring out the Z bar to clutch fork stuff. Not sure if a differnt Z bar exists that would fix the problem, or if I need to modify what I've got. I've got the longer clutch rod.

The big key is keeping the Z bar perpendicular to the mounting, as long as everything is square the rest is fairly straightforward.

Sorry to chime in late; just saw this thread!

I've been trying to sort out a similar situation: I bought a '63 Dart GT (225/ 3 speed) that had been hacked to accommodate a later close-ratio A833.

A previous owner had used an F-body aluminum bell housing with an adapter ring for the smaller (than an A833OD) bearing retainer and a plate to relocate the bell housing z-bar stud higher . The problem that arises with this approach is that the clutch fork is positioned quite a bit lower on the F bell housing (which works fine with the lower mounting points of the z-bar ball joints on the bell housing AND CHASSIS of the later A and F body cars.

On my car, the PO had cleverly welded a 1" longer lever arm to the Z bar to align with the clutch fork. The problem with this "solution" was that the upper and lower arms of the Z bar were designed to be equal lengths, and the longer lower arm provided too much travel and gave up leverage, resulting in very weird clutch pedal feel with a VERY heavy effort needed to depress and the clutch over-centering assist spring freaking out, occasionally hanging the pedal halfway down.

I considered lengthening the upper arm to match, but space is pretty tight up there and would have required cutting the firewall to clear the pedal-to-z bar rod, and possibly opening up another geometry can of worms regarding the clutch pedal and rod operating angles.

I finally decided to drill a hole in the modified lower zbar arm at a distance equal to the upper arm and used a 3/8" Heim joint with a length of Allthread to replace the z bar-to-clutch fork rod. The angle at which this bodge intersects the clutch fork is....interesting, but the clutch now feels and acts normally, and has been stable for a thousand miles and God-only-really-knows how many San Francisco traffic/hills starts and shifts.

Pretty? No, and I'd be very interested to hear of anyone successfully repositioning the chassis side z-bar ball joint; the "frame rail" of the unibody is much higher than the later A-body and space is at a premium.

The other logical approach is to borrow a page from the Classic Mustang guys (note: No F**d parts will be suggested) and convert to a hydraulic setup, using either a pusher OR puller slave or hydraulic throw out bearing, but the tight firewall clearances and odd downward angle of the pedal rod guarantee more nightmares in installing a master cylinder, not to mention the certain-to-be-required firewall reinforcement.

Another solution in my situation would have been to obtain and use an early four-speed bell housing and return the clutch linkage to reality, but I wanted to make the F body housing work in hopes of also switching to an A833OD trans some day soon, and I understand that the OD trans' larger bearing retainer requires the later bell housing.

Again. apologies for joining in late in this extremely vexing problem...I'd be more than happy to discuss in real life!

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Open the pod bay door, Hal.......

So what balls stud bracket did you use to make the Z-bar line up?

I tried this one a long time ago with a 318 and scatter shield in a '66 Dart. You have to raise the mounting point on the bell housing. I ended up making a new Z bar and it never really worked right and the fix was an update to a '71 Demon.

With that said, I believe that the Mopar 4 speed resellers have a kit for this problem now.

The bell housing ball stud was already mounted on a plate fabbed and installed by the previous owner...lined up well with the chassis ball stud to keep the zbar level. The problem arose from the over-length lower arm that was added to the zbar to line up with the Fbody clutch fork; that screwed up the geometry.

Anybody know what resellers have a fix kit for this? I spoke with Passon and Brewer's in the past and they were stumped by this as well.

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Open the pod bay door, Hal.......

I spoke with Wayne at brewers yesterday. They don't sell a fix for it. He recommended I fab a bracket.

I drew up a design yesterday and am having a prototype made up today. If it works out good I might have a few extras made up.

I'd be very interested in seeing how you approach this. The problem I'm seeing is not keeping the zbar level (which can be done by relocating the ball stud on the bell housing) but in maintaining the correct angle on the clutch rod to the throw out arm.

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Open the pod bay door, Hal.......

Here's what I came up with. Works great!