Hi all. I am looking at a oil scavange pump that flows 2.5 GPM. I am going to take oil from the pan and push it througha oil to air cooler. the question I have is.. do I run the cooled oil back into the pan where the engine can use the cooled oil? Or should I pump it into the valve cover in 2 places for extra cam and gear lube? keeping in minde that I plan on running the cooler pump only when the oil reatches 200. doesnt have to be that way but thats the plan. Any inpute or ideas are appriceated. thanks Hank.

Why an oil cooler?

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Not sure how it will work for any extra cam and gear lubing by running into the valve cover area. And at that flow rate, I expect it to just quickly fill up the pushrod galleries and leak/blow out crazily, unless you open up the drain a holes.... a lot! Going back to the pan makes sense to me.....

Are you adding oil sump capacity for the oil that will reside in the scavanging/cooling system while operating? Or will there be some check valve(s) to keep it in the system and not fill the pan too high when shut off?

I have an idea. I will take a 2.5 gal. jug of oil, and dump it in the oil fill in 30 seconds or less and I bet she will take it. The check valve is a great idea for after the pump, where the cooler ect. will be higher than oil level, and... that should be close to takeing care of my new found oil capacity problem. Thanks for the ideas.

The issue will be that you will have up to 2.5 gallons going in EVERY minute, minute after minute. There just is not a lot of oil flow in the /6 top to start with and so not much capacity in the way of drainback was needed. The pushrod cavities can take an (off-the-cuff estimated) quart or 2 of oil, but my early block sure had very small holes in the bottom of these cavities; they are not wide open to the crankcase. They are perhaps 3/8" diameter and there are 6 total; I'm very skeptical that those 6 holes, plus the head drain hole of perhaps 5/8" diameter, will gravity drain anywhere near 2.5 gpm continuously.

Please give us a video of a full 2.5 gallons going into the fill hole in 30 seconds.......that is a lot of oil.

BTW, will this oil cooling be thermostatically controlled?

The bigger question is, why do you want to cool so much oil? If you were running 20 pounds of boost, maybe an oil cooler would be needed if it was running hard, like in endurance racing. But I've never seen a stock slant need such a thing.

Im sorry I dont think my phone is smart emough for a vidieo, or its me.. and I must say the 2.5 gal. test was a fail. I didnt make a mess. But stoped when the valve cover got full. I had about 1 gal. left.
My thought was to control the relay for the pump with the OBD1 gm computer off of one of the comtrol pins. Cooling fan maybe, but the relay is on a switch for now.
And yes I dont see this stocker getting that hot. Maybe getting ahead of myself. I will keep an eye on the oil temp for mow, but when I get used to things ( how the turbo spools and when, fuel psi adjustments ect. and get any kinks out) Then the valves pistons and cam get reworked maybe at that point a differant turbo. That engine is a 72 block out of a swather with a steel crank. Just experomenting/playing with ideas befor I have some money wraped up in this project.

Hank, just about your test: remember that cold oil is more viscous than hot oil, if you repeat your experiment with oil at 190F, you will get higher flowrate (5 to 10 times maybe? assuming laminar flow) and it will be more dangerous for you (so be careful). I hope you can lubricate whatever you want to with your idea, but I imagine oil spraying everywhere, atomized by the valves moving, and sucked by the PCV.

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With a turbo, just getting consistent oil flow to the turbo bearings is the thing; the bearings will get a LOT hotter than 200F oil it they are not lubed so just good oil flow will be a good thing.

BTW, I rallied a 2.6L turbo Starion for years at 13-15 psi boost and the only oil cooler was the stock one and I doubt that it flowed anything like 2.5 gpm; it just tapped off of main oil supply. Even on very long stages, where I was hard into the turbo for 10-15 miles or more, it did not get too hot. Using a good quality oil was more important; Mobil 1 gave good results.

The Starion had a high volume oil pump to push the oil both to the engine and cooler. I have no idea if the /6 oil pump could push oil to both at the same time and leave adequate oil for the engine. Perhaps the later, taller impeller /6 pumps would have adequate volume? If that worked, you might be able to tap off the main gallery and use a t-stat and flow restrictor to manage the oil flow in the cooler. But I am just hypothesizing.... someone is bound to know the answer to that. And I don't know how much oil the turbo needs.

I think you should only worry about high oil temperatures once you’re sure that your oil is consistently too hot and requires the use of an oil temperature gauge in the oil sump or oil pump discharge. Rules of thumb for conventional (mineral) engine oil are that it can easily withstand temperatures up to 250° and oxidation doubles for every 18°F (10°C) above 165°F (75°C).

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/131 ... mperature/

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Rea ... -breakdown



Engine oil will generate heat from viscous friction which means that thinner oils tend to run cooler. Engines require oil flow and excessive pressure does not improve lubrication.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub ... _they_work.



From Chrysler owners and service manuals, a 30-grade engine oil (ie, SAE 30, 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30) should be suitable for slant six engines under normal operating conditions. Using an excessively viscous engine oil means that much of the flow will bypass back to the sump when the pressure developed by the pump exceeds the pressure setpoint of the relief valve. Raising the relief valve’s setpoint puts unnecessary strain on the pump’s drive gear, which can lead to premature failure.

Chrysler Oil Recommendations

Engine Oil

Engine Wear

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Thankyou all. Veary good info. I do plan on useing an oil temp guadge and it is installed in the car but the engine is not in yet. 80 miles to go. I am going to dump the test engine in the squirl at 150K. Its my dayly driver for now and 150 is a good number to rember. Thanks again.

The oil cooler design is a success. Turns out the advertised flow rate is not as it would seam. The pump is designed for 1/2 in hose and im useing 3/8.. it draws from the pan and returns in 3 area's to the valve cover. The pump holds the oil in the hoses and cooler and the system holds about 3/4 of a quart. I took the squirl from MN to TN and back. l am pleased with the performance of the cooler system. I turn it on at 230 degrees oil temp and shut it off at 200. Now to think of a way to make it automatic. ( would be convenient). Thank You all for your ideas and help.

That’s a great way to run an oil cooler. What brand pump are you using?

Its a ebay special.. its called singflo # FP-12 .. looks like a Briggs starter with a brass gear head on it.. but works nicely.

pics?