I am working on a 68 Dart that belongs to a board member. I am installing a freshly remanufactured 225 in place of a slant that has lost oil pressure and has a badly knocking rod.

The car is a daily street driver that will by and large be driven gently.

It has been a while since I swapped in a newly rebuilt engine, so I wanted to double check all the steps and make sure I am not missing something.

Oil pump prep:

The reman engine came with an uninstalled Melling six hole oil pump with the kidney bean cover. The plastic bag around the pump says "Hecho en Mexico."

I haven't checked yet if the oil pump gear is a press fit or keyed to the shaft.

I also have about three old factory oil pumps kicking around.

Would I be better off checking clearances on the factory pumps and using the factory oil pump with the best clearances or will I be fine with the Melling pump? The concern here is oil pump gear hardness and eventual failure.

No matter what pump I use I am going to pack the rotor with assembly lube and pour some oil into the filter before installation to help prime the pump.


Camshaft:

I have no idea what cam was installed by the rebuilder. I have several early 70s stock cams laying around. Should I leave well enough alone and keep the rebuilder cam or should I use a factory original cam?


Things to do on the remanufactured engine:

(0) address cam and oil pump issues discussed above
(1) check timing chain slack, replace if necessary
(2) degree the cam
(3) install oil pump pickup from old engine (make sure it is clean and not blocked by any debris)
(4) install flex plate from old engine
(5) disassemble, clean, re-lubricate, and note specs of old distributor. Use governor advance specs to calculate base timing. Check vacuum advance pod for function.
(6) install distributor
(6.5) install fuel pump and alternator
(7) install all tin- oil pan, timing cover, valve cover
(8.) install vibration damper. Verify damper ring hasn't slipped.
(9) set valve lash manual to .014 intake and .024 exhaust
(10) install manifolds
(11) install engine
(12) fill engine with fresh oil
(13) install new oil filter
(14) refill radiator
(15) reconnect electrical and fuel lines
(16) break in engine


Engine break in process

(1) Run engine at 2000-2500 RPM for 20 minutes
(2) change oil and oil filter
(3) drive car gently for 700 miles.
(4) change oil and filter
(5) drive car normally



Does that sound like a reasonably complete guide to installing a remanufactured engine and breaking it in?

Any input is appreciated.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

If this is an off-shelf reman and not a custom rebuild, the camshaft will be a '71 to '80 stock-spec item, probably a regrind, installed by lining up dots. Perfectly fine cam for a street driver, but if you have time and inclination, degree it properly, maybe with a couple degrees' advance. Should be a new timing chain and sprockets, so probably no slack to speak of.

Oil pump, spend some time eyeballing then decide which one to use.

Put on a large, good-quality oil filter and fill the sump with a good brand of 5w-30 oil prior to first startup. During your break-in process, stage "1.5" should be to lower the engine speed as low as can be (cap the PCV hose, etc.) and adjust the valves hot and running to 0.010" and 0.020". Step 3 should also contain periodic heavy-throttle applications (such as up to freeway speed in a hurry). Keep using large, good-quality oil filters and 5w-30.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Got it, thanks Dan! I will add step 1.5 and include heavy-throttle accelerations in step 3.

I always use 5W-30 and Purolator PureOne 30001 oil filters. The 30001 filters are normally for Ford 302s and 351, but fit right onto the slant oil pump and are larger than the slant filter. They even have anti-drainback valves.

I haven't taken the off-the-shelf remanufactured motor out of the shipping crate and plastic bag yet, but I felt the timing chain through the bag and it has a bit of slack. I will verify the amount of slack once I get the new motor out of the crate.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Oil pump inventory check revealed my stock was not quite what I remembered:

One 1964-ish stock Chrysler oil pump
One 1973-ish stock Chrysler oil pump
One new-in-the-bag Melling five hole pump
One used five-hole Melling pump with a tooth broken off the drive gear
One used five hole Melling pump, unknown condition

The Chrysler pumps are my first choice. I will clean and inspect them first.

The broken tooth Melling is definitely out, and I have heard bad things about the drive gears on new Melling pumps so I don't want to use the others.

Fingers crossed one or both of the Chrysler pumps check out.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I would not touch anything or change anything. Any changes would void whatever warranty that came with this engine. I would also follow any instructions that were included for initial startup, for the same reasons.

You need to resist the urge to "improve" on whatever is already there.

Hmmmm. True about the warranty. I had forgotten about that. I never worry about warranties since they are largely useless, but this isn't my car or my engine. OK- I guess the engine stays as-is and I will be using the pump they supplied. That makes it easier in a way.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

This is key to properly breaking in the rings/cylinders. The rings need to be loaded with full combustion pressure.

There's a nice explanation here --> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I've been using the Mototune break-in for years (on motorcycles) and it has never let me down.

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--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--

I would love read that article, but my computer can't find the mitten server.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

hi uncle d- havent replied to you in a while but always read your sage advice columns here. one question on the old anomaly of what oil to use. i always have used a good quality 10-30 in my slants and other tanks. never experienced a problem. notice that 10-30 is now in shorter supply and seems to have been replaced by the more common 5- 30 and 5-20 oils. you recommend 5- 30. while it would seem it would flow faster than 10 30, its thinness concerns me. even my 4.6 ford v8 recommends 5-20. think this was mostly a concession to mpg improvement. think it makes much difference? btw- i still guarantee your 2 free mint juleps when me meet for all your help and humor over the last 20 years. phat regards bob f

Ok- computer found the Mototune server this morning. Interesting article!

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

See here, here, here and then here.
Lookin' forward! I've still never had a mint julep.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

On the to[pic of engine break in oil, five quarts of this shipped with the rebuilt motor:





I am concerned that this is not the best oil for breaking in a slant six.

(1) ZDDP is unnecessary
(2) 15W-50 sounds entirely much too thick to be an appropriate oil for an engine run in western Washington state, especially for break in.
(3) No API logo
(4) The sales script on the back of the bottle flat out says the oil doesn't have detergents

Sounds like this is actually five quarts of snake oil, not break-in oil. What do you all think? Should I pick up regular dino oil in a 5W-30 weight?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

did read and appreciate those 4 redlined articles you clued me in to dan. since i started wrenching slant sixes in the back yards of nj in 65 , ive thought a good brand of 10-30 was the best all around oil. jerseys year can range from 0 to 95 degrees. but now in south fla for the last 12 years where the lowest we see is about 40 degree mornings for maybe 2weeks and driving a high mileage 92 volvo with a 4cyl. ive been using 10-30 but think next oil change i will try 5-30. the increased speed of flow and lower drag weight on the moving parts will likely increase my mpg and save $$. this means i can spot you for 3 mint juleps or 3 gin fizzes whatever your pleasure. cant believe you havent had a julep yet. its a southern drink common here. you must have them in south canada. when your pals take you to a gin mill for your next b day- tell them to get you a double. take care bob f

Reed,

Is using that oil a condition of the warranty? I doubt it will hurt anything and the extra ZDDP is desirable for the cam break-in phase. I'd run that oil for cam break in and then dump it.

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Joshua

I am still searching the engine remanufactures website for the fine details of the warranty. Not much info came with the motor.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.