I use The Right Stuff,by permatex.

That's a gasket goop material, not a thread sealant.

We also don't put water in our gas tanks or engine oil in our radiators or Coca-Cola in our brake cylinders. Use the right tool (material) for the job.

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Well Dan that goop works on my restored 62 Valiant for the past 10 years,and my record holder race car with 300 hp with no issues.It even says THE RIGHT STUFF on the can.

I put the 592 thread sealant on, after cleaning the studs and the holes very well. It says it takes 72 hours to fully cure.

I'll do a pressure test before I put the manifolds back on, you never know....

brian

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Amen... Bar's Leak is Ok for a temp fix if you are going to get it out soon, but it WILL goop thing up.... it seems to love to plug up radiator tubes.

"cyanoacrylate anaerobic thread sealer"

I am a country boy, and with a name like that I think that is way to fancy for me!

Plus I usually ain't willing to wait 72 minutes , let alone 72 hours.

I like to be able to remove my stuff easily later on. Has anyone removed studs with the "592" on it?

Rick

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12.70 @ 104.6

Not studs specifically but I've taken plenty of things apart that had used it. Comes apart fine with hand tools, no heat or extraordinary effort required.

Rick,

I didn't know I was using this specific product at the time, but I've used it on my 1/8" npt gas line fittings on my carbs. It has Teflon in it and comes apart with standard wrench torque. It does get crumbly when you take it apart, so you have to clean out the threads well with a wire brush or something.

It smells awful, so there's that.

My studs should be ready to pressure test tonight (72 hours).

brian

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Over on a diesel forum where I also hang out one popular mod for sealing head studs is to create a little countersink pocket at the top of the threaded hole and install an oring. Of course the diameter and depth have to be correct so the oring gets the correct amount of compressing.

Making the oring pocket has been successfully done with what I call a 'christmas tree drill' You know, the cone shaped drill bits made for putting nice round holes in sheet metal.

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If I did an o-ring, I'd want to do what you said, make the recess, and build a ridge on the stud to compress the o-ring into the recess.

I still can't see why they didn't just use blind holes in the head for these studs, would have saved a lot of grief over the years. Those studs don't go that deeply into the head anyway....how much extra volume did they provide for the water jacket by being through holes, likely not much at all.

brian

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We are only sealing a few psi of water or zero pressure with the waterless mix,if the studs are so loose to leak why can't you either buy or make up studs with oversize threads to create an interference type fit and use just a little thread sealer? Failing that option just get a set of factory studs from a junk head? They seem to be a pretty neat fit and take minimal effort to seal..
I would have thought you want the stud to be well fixed in the head so it won't screw out when undo ing the nuts during manifold removal and create this same issue again.
I'm still dubious how studs leaking water externally can allow enough water past the gasket and into the exhaust system to create your problem.

I think some of the sealing, and or loose/ sloppy female thread in head when new studs are installed is caused when rusted swelled old stud is removed. Most of the studs I removed from my head had become oversized with corrosion at the portion which was in contact with coolant.

Forcing deformed old studs out squash threads in head, so when new studs are installed they often don't seal, or won't tighten until unthreated portion of stud snugs to head. This causes two problems, leaks, and problems later when trying to remove manifold where stud threads out of head with nut stuck to stud.

When I installed head after valve job my first concern was to be able to repeatedly accurately torque manifolds with out studs turning, and coolant leaks second. I found chasing female thread with a tap, cleaning, and using blue Loctite served both needs, along with new all studs & brass nuts worked. Now when torqueing, all studs receive equal clamping pressure based on nut snugging only on fine thread.

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