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 Post subject: oil leak
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 5:10 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2015 1:40 pm
Posts: 57
Location: United States
Car Model:
Got it started, adjusted valves, idles great, has an oil leak.

It is hard to see where it is leaking. it is below the head in line with cylinder number 6. Any bolts or brackets that could be missing where oil would leak out?

I'm bummed :(

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 Post subject: found leak
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 5:45 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2015 1:40 pm
Posts: 57
Location: United States
Car Model:
I must have dinged up the edge of the head gasket toward the back of the engine. it is leaking oil between the head and the block at that point. Besides being more careful wit a new one, is there a thicker gasket I should use that would be better than the fel-pro that I used.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 5:51 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5611
Location: Downeast Maine
Car Model:
Quote:
Besides being more careful wit a new one, is there a thicker gasket I should use that would be better than the fel-pro that I used.
Just keep in mind thicker head gasket = lower static compression. Felpro head gasket is thicker than factory metal gasket so with Felpro your compression has all ready been lowered.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 6:19 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 2:49 pm
Posts: 1158
Location: Houston, TX
Car Model:
If you're going to remove the head, be sure to check for dings or nicks on the actual head and block surface as well. The Fel-pro gasket should be good enough to seal on its own as long as your deck surfaces are clean and flat.

I have heard of people running a very thin bead of oil-safe, high-temp RTV along the edge of the gasket on the outside of the oil gallery, but the last few Fel-pro gaskets I've used have already had a rubbery bead of something built into the gasket in this location. I would be VERY sparing with the goop if you did this. Don't get RTV anywhere near the main body of the gasket.

Also check to make sure you're following the correct torque spec.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 7:59 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13115
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Just about every slant six motor i have run has a leak at that point. New gasket or old. I usually end up adding a bit of RTV sealant to each side of the head gasket on installation or I just smear a bit of RTV sealant on the outside of the seam.

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 Post subject: thanks
PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 8:35 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2015 1:40 pm
Posts: 57
Location: United States
Car Model:
Thank you all for the tips.

Here is the plan:
1. Tear it back down
2. Clean the top of the block- I did forget last time!
3. Use a sealer on that edge of the gasket- Head was resurfaced but block was dirty.
4. Get somebody stronger to help me place head without beating on the gasket! (it was the weak helping the weaker)
5. Replace vacuum hose that I pinched in the valve cover.
6. Re adjust the valves and tidy up the engine bay

The car ran really strong, trans shifted to all three gears. Push button works great. Heard a few suspension noises. I know the shocks are shot but overall I am encouraged. Brake shoes need changed-PO rebuilt brakes all but shoes and left me the new ones in a box. I hope they fit.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 9:28 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2004 11:21 pm
Posts: 1391
Location: long beach ca
Car Model:
First try a retorqe 5lbs higher,if that doesnt work I have put permatex Right stuff sealer,,,a light smear over the joint and have stopped leaks 100%.The Right stuff is the right stuff.


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 Post subject: right stuff.
PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 1:48 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2015 1:40 pm
Posts: 57
Location: United States
Car Model:
I was going to try a squirt with the Red RTV stuff but even though the right stuff is more money, I can't argue with the Right Stuff. I think it will work because I drove it a little today and nothing leaked out. So it is worth the try!
thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 6:02 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:57 pm
Posts: 151
Location: Newport, Ohio
Car Model:
i agree with Reed. they all leak back there

multiple times I removed the head and tried sealing it up but to no avail
it still leaks back there a little bit.

as a recovering perfectionist its tough to accept this but over time, and patient endurance I have come to live with it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 5:02 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8816
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
Quote:
i agree with Reed. they all leak back there

.
I disagree. I have never had a leak there, even with the stock shim gasket.
My leak issues are the right front corner of the oil pan at the timing cover, and the rear seal/oil pan area. They always give me grief.

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 Post subject: no more leak
PostPosted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 5:48 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Thu Apr 16, 2015 1:40 pm
Posts: 57
Location: United States
Car Model:
Well I tried the right stuff and it worked. Didn't drive it a whole lot, a couple of 10 mile trips.

Tomorrow after church I am going to install a new set of wires. Then it will be my daily driver. I don't drive it much, just to visit the hospital and nursing homes so it wont be a lot.

bought the welder and picking up the shielding gas next week!

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