So I regrettably sold my new Clifford Hyper Pak intake manifold last year in a moment of weakness. I had intended on building a 170 Hyper Pak setup for my '64 dart. Anyways, I sold it to a guy here on the forums for $450, which is exactly what I paid for it a few years before from another forum member. So recently I started looking for another one.

I found a nos Mopar one on ebay with a starting bid of $600ish. I watched the entire auction and nobody ever made a bid or offer. So I messaged the guy and told him I'd give him the starting bid price plus shipping. He told me he couldn't sell it that cheap and he wouldn't go lower than $850. I passed. He posted it on ebay again at a new starting bid of $850. That auction ended with no bids or offers. So I messaged him again and offered $750. He declined and said he had seen one sell for $1200 and that he wouldn't let his go for less than $850. So I declined again.

Then two Clifford repops show up on ebay, both used. One was asking $900 the other around $1100. Both auctions ended with no bids or offers. So I contact the guy about the cheaper of the two who now has it listed for $695 or best offer. I offered him $450 shipped, he counter offered with $655, I then counter offered with $450 plus shipping, he then said he could take no less than $600 and that if it didn't sell then the starting bid for the next auction would be $700+. I declined.

So is it just me, or are people really paying $700-$1200 for these things?!
I'm really at the point where I'm considering a v8 swap over a modded slant. I don't wanna have $5k in a 200hp slant when I could easily have 400hp for much less!

The "hyper-pak" intake is overrated. It is designed for a specific application and really a specific RPM range. They do look cool and are an interesting piece of Mopar and slant six history, but aren't optimal for a daily driver or even the average race engine.

True original early 60s Hyper-Pak intakes do sell in the $1k range. The Clifford reproductions shouldn't, but probably sell in the $600-$700 range. The market for these pieces is incredibly small. You are looking at hard-core Mopar memorabilia collectors or slant six aficionados. Personally, I think $500 plus shipping is a fair price for a new or used reproduction hyper-pak. But I would pay more for an authentic Dutra reproduction casting, just because Dutra's quality control was MUCH better than Clifford and Dutra is a cool guy.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

They are ending with no bids and being relisted only to get no bids. Does that sound like they are selling at that price?

Real ones have gone for over $1200. Clifford ones are a crapshoot because there are different generations. The first gen were the good ones and had the multiple carb mounting patterns drilled. The later ones had fewer mounting holes drilled and casting quality was not nearly as good.

Honestly? For making horsepower a Hyper Pak is not your best choice anyway. They look really cool, but require lots of work to make them happy.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Go with a good 4 barrel or double 2's, an offy double two cost a few hundred bucks new and can be milled for 2bbls easily. Good quality and performance, plus intake manifold heating if you use Dutra Dual setup. Way cheaper and good performance.

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

http://aaamarine.com/5041-offenhauser-d ... e-manifold (easily milled for double two's, Summit has free shipping but didn't have a picture).

and

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ofy-5 ... fgodunULTA

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I bought mine from AAAMarine, they milled it to my specs for no extra charge, I just sent them the carb mount dimensions and they worked with offy to mill my manifold, great guys at AAA Marine, in my experience.

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I looked up the ebay ad for the manifold you were speaking about, it's interesting that the seller doesn't want it anymore, nor did he ever use it, and I quote:

"I have had this for quite a while and technically it is new and never used. I put it on a 1962 Plymouth Valiant however it was never used. Before I got the car on the road I decided on a different configuration and removed it before I even ran the car."

It's not like he said, "I love this thing, I hate to part with it, but I need the money..."

Maybe Reed was onto something with his comment above on the performance of this manifold...doesn't sound like the seller was too enamored with it either....

Maybe this is fate telling you its good that you sold yours and you should try something more reasonably priced that performs well...don't rack your brains over this overpriced item that even the seller didn't really want. Use the $400 you got from selling yours and you're way ahead already.

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Like slantzilla said, this isn't really the best intake manifold for a slant because it is designed for a specific RPM band, and requires a certain discipline to build your engine specifically around the intake manifold. I think these intakes get more miles in the back of UPS trucks than they do on cars. They make good wall hangers for a while until someone else just has to have it on their wall for a while.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Well...since I have gone through the rabbit hole having done these for street and strip...I guess I get to weigh in with some first hand experience...

Vintage museum parts are just that they are expensive as no more are going to be made, so the price is there for the asking...(you think this is fun...try getting a Carter-B for a 1938 Dodge Army Vehicle...)
It is expected that $$$ are going to be there if you are using it to put together a replica Nascar Valiant/Lancer as something unique and fun to show...

There's always someone that has a fatter bank book that can build what they want and throw money at it....so much like fishing, people will post a crappy last gen clifford manifold for $900+ just to see if they can reel in one of the "gotta have one" guys.

There are guys who imagine that they need one because it's the holy grail, and it can make julienne fries and balance your checkbook, then when they find out it's not plug and play, and you really need to be up on your thought process and carb tuning, they lose interest or say it's garbage because they just don't have the savvy to follow the path to it's end or get a better education on how things really do work (and the little details too), or they just don't have time or patience to deal with it).

All of our manifolds are purpose built and served the purpose they were designed for, and depending on the build some intakes will limit performance and others will work better....

I mean it's no slouch, the hyperpak's original intent was to provide a manifold that would provide a power boost through ram tuning at high sustained rpms for the small displacement engine giving an edge over the other brand's "log" manifold during a certain type of racing...it also provides good low end torque at the lower rpms, which is what our brand needed to dig out of the turn and launch back into the high rpm straightaways....putting it back into the ram tuned powerband quickly.

On the street, unless you have race gearing or are aggressively passing a truck you will never hit the ram tuned rpm band for that extra "umph"....that being said a simple mod of dividing the plenum will restore all the mid-range power you need (Thanks Doc!)....Most of our cars from 1960-1972 are fairly light and won't benefit from the low end torque (and would need to rethink their gearing and tire diameter to cope....but, those that have a 1973+ vehicle will recognize the advantage with hi-po street gearing and stock tire sizes to help motivate a car that is the equivalent weight with just a driver in it, to a 1966 car with 2 football players as passengers...

As stated, some manifolds work fine for certain tasks...the offy is good for a bolt on street manifold, but the small ports limit it's breathing and effectiveness at high rpms...the Clifford Shorty works well at all rpm ranges, and has the larger ports that allows it to breathe all the way up to the high race rpms....The 2x1/2x2 manifolds drop in between and have their own challenges to stay synchronized and tuned (I remember having my hands on one of the Proline 2x2 set ups and it needed as much tuning as my street hyperpak to stay happy).

The early clifford manifolds were nice and are easier to work with, and don't use the "carburator adaptor plate" which robbed the installer about 3/4" of possible hood clearance when used....the ports are narrow compared to the clifford shorty but are slightly larger than the offy manifold...

The late ones are similar, but show casting flaws (bubbles, voids, and only threaded holes for the plate), port section is about the same.
So yes, these aren't exactly the best manifold for the "all out racer"...but again horsepower is top end performance, and low end torque is street light launch...so the manifold works if the vehicle, engine build, and drivetrain are all considered as a working system...

This brings us to a final consideration, the "Fat Pak"...Doug did a really good job on this particular evolution of the manifold....The runners are cast out being a little more open than the clifford shorty, and although not 100% suited for the street....you will not notice any difference in low end performance using a high compression, high duration/high lift cam.... (performance at idle is not any worse than having a V-8 with the very lumpy cam....but it still has loads more low end torque than the lower 9:1 SCR short cam hi-po builds).


It is ultimately sad to let go of a dream because of circumstances (I too am in that boat, having moved on my "Fat Pak" due to life's challenges to another owner who I hope has done something with it than making it another garage queen).

I know you were looking at putting together something specific not just using one for a plug and play. Keep your bank account stocked and ready, something will come up, but it's a waiting game for the bargains, (I didn't expect to see a fat pak, much less find one to purchase at the time). Most of the time you will get the guys who think they are gold, and they will wait hoping to find the sucker, but gather up your engine build parts, make sure you have your vehicle ready for a swap, and at some point when you aren't expecting it, you will find one lying on a swap meet table at the right price and that's the time to have your money on hand and a calm poker face, and a thank you when it's in your hands heading for the garage.




The purpose of the board is to support those dreams and people who need direction to make them happen or realize things as far as they can go. As a community we pat our members on the back for a "good job", and shed tears and words of encouragement when the chips are down... with the amount of people we have, there should be enough eyes "on", in their areas to spot something for the right price eventually....

W'shee-yoot! I didn't particularly want one before, but now…!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I bought a NOS Clifford hyperpak intake, last december, with a lot of other new parts, as a package deal. I am planning on putting it on a low mileage cruise nite type car, just as eye candy.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

A Hyper-Pak intake is not the best choice for a street SL6...
and that intake is a challenge to make run "right"... no matter where you use it...
but there is no question that the H-Pak does make good power, in the intended RPM range... and they look cool when you pop the hood.
DD

I would imagine the hyper-pak manifold would work substantially better on the street if manifold heat were fabricated.

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Tom
'86 Alfa Romeo Spider, red "Dinsdale"
'10 Corvette, red "" (no name yet)
'95 Ferrari 348, red "Zoom"
'04 Maserati, black "Evil"
'05 Aston Martin DB9, green "Bond, Treasury bond."
'82 Dodge W150 Power Ram, yellow "E. Valdez"

A hyper pak intake would be a great choice for a fuel injected race motor run in the RPM band the hyper park was intended for. Fuel injection (and I do NOT mean TBI) cures all the "wet manifold" problems the long runners of the hyper pack cause.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

That's why I got one

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Richard (aka Fingers)