Hi friends,
I've been searching through posts trying to see if I can diagnose this myself (and bugging Joshie a whole bunch but he's on vacation so I'd rather not).
A few nights ago as I was pulling out of the parking lot at work, my car ('67 dart 170, 3 on the tree, all stock) started up but then died about 30 seconds later. Couldn't get it started again at all. For the few days prior to this, I would have no problems starting up in the morning, drive to Wawa to get coffee, and the Dart would have a really hard time starting back up - felt like trying a super cold start without pumping the gas pedal first even though the engine was still nice and warm, but then would still start fine after sitting for a while.
Pulled the ignition coil from the dist cap and held it to the body, no spark coming out. Started checking into things, the points were toasted so I replaced and gapped them (.020, right?). New coil, new condenser. Still no spark. I disconnected the ballast resistor to see if I could at least get the car to kick over (I read somewhere I think on here that if your resistor was going and you disconnected it and the car started then hey, you need a new resistor - I did check resistance in it and I think it's ok, though the readings were varying a bit, but I also can't think why that would cause a no spark issue since the starter circuit bypasses the resistor anyway?)

I feel like there's something really simple and obvious that I'm missing, and I apologise - I've been working every day for three weeks straight and fighting off a head cold, so my brain is not at the top of its diagnostic game.
Help please and thank you
<3

0.020" with the rubbing block on one of the cam lobes.
Nope...that's not true. A disconnected ballast resistor is electrically identical to a bad ballast resistor. There is no magic to be had by disconnecting the ballast resistor (and the symptom of a failed ballast resistor isn't "won't start", it's "starts but immediately dies when you let go of the key").

Verify that there's power to the coil with the key in "RUN" and the points closed, but do it carefully—don't leave the key on for long periods without the engine running; the points will burn up.

If no power to coil, you've got a fault in the ignition switch or wiring.

If power to the coil is yes, check for problems in the secondary side (cap, rotor, wires).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Got it, thanks for the clarification!
What's the best way to verify power to the coil? Am I using a multimeter and looking for specific readings, or am I just snagging a sturdy screwdriver and hoping I don't catch a spark on my sweater?

Thanks Dan, I was hoping you'd be around today to help with this.

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<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

Multimeter or test light.

If you want to eliminate the cap and rotor as the source of the problem (for example, if one or the other has a fault allowing the spark to short to ground) have the key on and points closed and everything hooked up, remove the cap, remove the cap end of the coil wire and hold it near the block or head (ground) while you use something insulated (popsicle stick, chopstick...) to manually open the points. Each time you do, watch for a spark from the coil wire to ground. If yes, then suspect the cap and rotor. If no, power not getting to coil/points.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

What would I check next if power wasn't getting to the points? I tried to find it on the wiring diagram but all I saw from the coil positive was an arrow that was labeled "to distributor".

After fixing a wonky wire that had a bad connector (the longer one that doesn't come from the capacitor right by the coil, connected to the coil positive), I got proper voltage coming into the coil. I didn't have anybody to help me test for spark the way I knew how, but tomorrow I will do that test though to be honest the cap and rotor both show a significant amount of wear (contact and rotor points are pretty fried, if they were stagepin ends or sockets on any of my theatre lights I'd have pulled them in a heartbeat to replace) so I feel like replacing them may be for the best anyway. I'm also going to double check the spark plugs.

Side question - the wiring diagram only shows one wire connecting to the coil positive, but I have two, the capacitor and the other one that I fixed, which according to the diagram goes to the ballast but for me gets lost in wrapped wiring and I haven't traced it fully yet. Does this sound correct, or is it something to investigate further?

Fun side fact, whilst investigating the wiring further I found out that the contact on the horn relay for switch had corroded and broken off the relay itself (the bit that the spade connector on the wire would attach itself to is broken off and firmly attached to the connector on the wire). It's only the one wire, and though it's not an immediate concern, would it be better to replace the relay altogether (and if so does anybody know of a good part to do so with) or is that a ground wire that I can ground elsewhere in the meantime? If memory serves correct from earlier, it's the one on the wiring diagram labelled H1-16V that connects to the alternator.

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<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

You'd follow the wiring back, piece by piece and connection by connection. Points --> Coil --> ballast resistor --> bulkhead connector --> ignition switch, etc.
Yes. Remember, the points make and break the coil's ground path.
If that capacitor, which is a radio noise suppression device, shorts internally, it can mess with your spark. You might want to disconnect it for now.
Good...does it start now?
One way that requires no helper is to see if the engine starts!
Replace with good quality parts.
Correct, the radio noise suppression capacitor isn't shown on the diagram.
Also correct.
Whee!
That's the way to fix it.
Go shopping on RockAuto.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ok, so. I've got spark to the coil now, and a new distributor and rotor because it had to happen either way. Still no starting, and I double checked my fuel lines just in case - getting fuel to the carb, so that's a good sign.
The condenser is also new, and the connection there with the ground wire is good. Ground wire to coil seems fine. Gonna try to go through the harness and check coil to ballast now.
Are there particular voltages or resistances I should look for in that area?
Will also poke around under the dash - it's a bit of a rat's nest in there, so that could be a problem as well.

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<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

Coil to ballast is fine and connectors seem solid. Under the dash, for as much of a bit of a mess as it is, is actually really pristine and everything at the ignition switch looks almost brand new.

The connector going into the Ign. side of the alternator regulator is solid, but I peeked inside the spade connector on the wire and it looks pretty corroded, though without taking it entirely apart I'm not sure how badly. The spade on the regulator itself is nice and clean though. Corrosion is a possibility of signal not passing, though I'm not sure if it's enough to keep the car from starting. I'm also not sure what I should be checking in that connector to see if the corrosion is actually affecting anything, but it's the only thing I've seen that looks the least bit wonky.

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<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

What do you mean by "spark to the coil"? Sparks need to come from the coil. What needs to go to the coil is steady voltage when the key is in the "run" or "start" position.
Did you pull the distributor? If so, it might not have gone back in the right position. See here.
If you've got power to the coil, that means this what you're about to check is at least not totally hosed.
That and your corroded connectors suggest this car has severe wiring issues. Could well be time for a new engine wiring harness.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Apologies, that's what I meant. I have spark *from* the coil.

No, I didn't.
That's always good.
Oh, yes, I'm aware and it's been a plan of mine to do so as soon as I can. I replaced that connector with a fresh one, but still no dice.
Tested the spark plug wire resistance, the two shortest were around 3.5k, the rest all between 4.3-5k which I think is ok? Spark plugs themselves look alright too.

I'm out of ideas at this point.

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<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

OK, good, so your wiring to the coil and distributor are at least OK.
Yes.

You've verified that the distributor is turning?

If so, try turning the key to "Run", then go under the hood and carefully, without touching anything else, use a screwdriver to connect the two terminals on the starter motor. Does the engine start?

(You replaced the points without pulling the distributor? You're a masochist! )

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I have verified the distributor is indeed turning!

Did so, the engine didn't start (by myself for right now, so couldn't crank only let it sit as far to the right as it would), but I did get a lovely spark shower before I dropped the screwdriver heh.

And I have tiny hands, it wasn't too bad at all!

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<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

Well, it seems as though you have spark...though timing is still an open question that ought to be addressed. If your distributor pinion or timing chain/sprocket has problems, the spark's not happening at the right time and the engine won't start. But we're running out of spark-related things to look at. Got a can of carburetor cleaner? Shoot about 2 seconds' worth into the top of the carburetor and see if the car starts.
Eh? Let what sit as far to the right as what would?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Good call. Don't have carb cleaner on hand, but I'll pick some up this weekend when I'm back at work. I checked my fuel lines before and after the fuel filter and there was fuel so I'm not suspecting the fuel pump, but that would be the next place to look besides timing, though beyond physical inspections I'm not sure how much I can test things.

Don't worry about the key thing. I meant it was in run, I forgot that start (cranking) is after run - where the key sits when it's turned all the way to the right without being in cranking mode would be run. I'm rather tired and very much in need of a vacation.. Which I'm leaving for tomorrow!

Back at this on Saturday.

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<i>D'Artagnan</i>
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v432/stephaniexchaos/dart/th_IMG_0326_zpsumhhfxi0.jpg">

This has been an entertaining and educational thread. Don't quit posting untill this thing is running. If it fires with starting fluid, fuel IS your problem. If it does not fire with starting fluid, then spark timing is the most likely culprit. Hang in their Dan. We all appreciate your knowledge and patience here.

Sam

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