I have kicked around the idea of using ultra-violet lightbulbs in an instrument cluster to get the orange needles and the white numbers to fluoresce. I found THIS auction on eBay for a pair of UV LED bulbs that will fit in the dash housing.

The auction doesn't say the wavelength of the UV light emitted by the LEDs, so I am worried if the UV light will be damaging to eyes and/or skin.

However, if the wavelength isn't harmful, I plan on trying these UV LED bulbs in the dash cluster in my truck. The needles are completely faded on the gauges and the illumination lamps currently don't work (I think that is just burnt out bulbs, though).

Does anyone know if the orange paint used on the needles will foresee under UV light? I know the white lettering on the gauges should, but I need to know if I should repaint the needles a different color orange.

I would appreciate any input or suggestions related to this project. Anybody try something similar? Anybody have experience with these UV LEDs? Will I hasten the demise of the plastic instrument cluster by cooking it with even MORE UV lightwaves? Should I coat the inside of the cluster with tinfoil to block the UV rays from baking the plastic housing?

I will post pictures of this experiment if I get it done.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Won't happen efficiently enough to make for a readable gauge unless you repaint the needles (easy) and the numbers (very hard) with fluoro paint. Also keep in mind that white will fluoresce blue under UV light. Blue is not a good colour for information you need to read in a hurry with a quick glance at night; it is the hardest colour for the human visual system to focus on and process. Prove it to yourself: find a shopping centre with a dark blue sign lit from within at night. Notice how the edges of the letters are blurry as you drive by at night…but the red, green, yellow, orange, etc signs aren't? Or take note next time you're on a plane landing at night. Look out the window at the runway lights. The greens, reds, yellows, ambers, and whites are all in sharp focus; the blues are fuzzy-edged.
Slip an index card or Post-Itâ„¢ note between the needle and the gauge face. Put pieces of scotch tape on the disc on either side of the speedo needle hub. Use a small brush to apply a couple of coats of fluorescent red-orange paint readily available at any hobby store. Remove index card and scotch tape. Done. Or you can use fluorescent yellow, or fluorescent green, or white, whatever you like. I used fluoro yellow when I did the needles on my truck:


There are even more options now than there were a month ago in what to use for upgraded dash illumination. Numerous different incandescent bulbs depending on how bright and what colour you want them, and now there are finally(!) some(!) legitimate and good-quality LED retrofits: these (2-pack) and these (1-pack). Unlike with a UV LED, they'll actually light up the gauges. Their spectral output is much higher in the blue-to-violet (compared to an incandescent bulb) and will make fluoro-painted needles "pop" very visibly for you, and their spherical light output will mean the whole gauge is lit up as it was with the incandescent bulbs (most LEDs don't do this).
Naw...just acknowledge that the wheel's already been invented, put in the white LEDs linked above, optionally remove the blue plastic bubbles over the bulbs if your dash cluster has them, and smile because you never ever have to think about your dash lights again.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Cool, thanks Dan! Well, now I have something to play with. I will try the fluorescent paint you mentioned and try those LEDs. I might try painting the dash numbers with some color of paint that looks white in sunlight but fluoresces another color, like green. That would be cool!

I STILL want to try fabbing up electro luminescent gauges for my brother's Duster. I know I can get 12 volt electroluminescent pads that I would stick new gauges face decals to.

I will put the results of my experimentation in my truck thread in Slixer's Gallery.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

www.glowinc.com but careful not to overdo it, remember you don't want the gauges to be too bright. Most people never touch the rheostat, and just run them at max intensity...not realizing this significantly degrades their critical seeing ability, even though there's no discomfort glare involved. Use that rheostat! The gauges should be just bright enough to read quickly with one glance. No brighter.
Giant undertaking. If that appearance is the goal (like the '60s Mopar electroluminescent dashes), better and cheaper and easier to use UV-glow paint and one or another source of UV light.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

UV paint them then light the gauges and faces like the 70-74 ebodies.


The gauge lights shine in front of the gauges outside of the gauge pods.


You might have to fab up something to accomplish this on your truck.


Greg

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I have never seen an E-body instrument cluster up close in person, especiallylit at night.

However, electroluminescent wire sounds like it would do the trick to put the lighting source in front of the gauges.

My idea is to get some electroluminescent sheets and attach decals or decals or the like over the EL panels but cut out the lettering so most of the EL panel is covered except the lettering. I would, of course, have to find blackface gauge stickers, or i could use the white face stickers, cut out the letters, then spray them black before affixing them to the EL panel.

Anywho, those are just some ideas I have been kicking around. I have a spare dash cluster from an older D series pickup I can use for mockup purposes. First step in my truck is to get the lights working, then I will play with paint and LEDs, then I will go more exotic.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.