Since when? Perhaps certain models. Just google-fu'd a few and they do have ported ports.

The Holley 5200 is a Holley knockoff of a Weber, and I believe it does have a true ported vacuum sort for use with a carburetor, but it is too small for anything but a stock motor. The Weber 38/38s I have played with and seen online do not have the correct port for the distributor vacuum advance.

I stand corrected- I just searched online and the Weber 32/36 DGEV/DFEV IS supposed to have a vacuum advance port, but if my goal was to have a carb that was as bolt-on as possible, I wouldn't go with a Weber. You will have to adapt the fuel line, add a fuel pressure regulator, get a different air cleaner, rig up a kick down linkage (if your vehicle has an automatic), and then fine tune the carb one you get all that sorted.

Bolt-on would be the factory choices of Holley 1945 and Holley 1920, but the 1920 may be missing vacuum ports and use a different choke thermostat.

Yup I think the 1945 is the one Iwould like to go with. If you've got one around just getting in the way; I'm interested Reed.

Gus

OK- I am going out of town for a few days, but this weekend I will try and dig out all my 1945s and see if there is one that will work for you. I have three or four under my workbench, but I can't speak as to the condition of them.

My 1975 Holley 1945 is definitely NOT lean burn, as this did not exist in 1975. It is a California carb, but it works absolutely great. I have kept all emissions systems stock and functional, and I have been really glad that I did. By the way, I live in an area that is not inspected.

When I was younger, I had different ideas about emission control devices, but as I have gotten older I have come to the realization that I am not an engineer. Granted, some systems absolutely SUCK (like the Ford Feedback carburetor systems), but not all do.

Good luck on your pickup! I had a buddy that bought a 1982 new, and he literally drove the wheels off that thing!

Literally? I'd like to hear that story. :-)

Me too. My stepfather actually did drive the wheels off an early 70s Opel Kadette. He made a left turn and the wheel, tire, brake drum, rear axle, the whole enchilada kept going on their own. Apparently those cars were made from rust stampings.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

The '84 D150 I bought this year was "De-LeanBurn-ed" for about $300 (not counting regular tune up parts- plugs, wires, cap and rotor, etc.), using parts from Autozone next door. I bought a remanufactured Holley 1945 for a 70's slant six, a remanufactured 70's distributor with vacuum advance, HEI module, and relay (got the relay from Summit). The carb's accelerator pump failed after a month, but other than that it runs well enough and I was able to the swap in an afternoon a week after ordering the parts. It was fairly close to "plug and play".

Most of the emissions systems on the truck had been in bad shape, so when the Lean Burn was removed so were they. For the time being the goal was simply to get the truck running quickly and cheaply.

It's not the fastest rig on the road, but it cruises comfortably and I've been getting 17-19 mpg highway. It's a long bed, 3.2 rear end, with the NP435 "Granny" four speed. Around town is about 13-14 mpg depending on weather. I'm pretty happy with those numbers considering I bought it for $550 and have put 2000 miles on it since September without incident.

Its easy to add a vacuum port above the throttle blades. Some brass tubing and a drill are all it takes. I did this to my GM TB, used before I added ignition control to the EFI.

Does your distributor have vacuum advance?

Sam

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OK guys, I'm back at it again. I had another project that was in dire need of finishing before winter. Now that's done back to the slant.

An up date: I have everything I need now to do the conversion except a carburetor.

√ vacuum advance distributer
√ coil from 1998 chevy pickup w/bracket
√ HEI module

As far as I can remember all I need now is a carb. with a vacuum port.

Sam, if all I need to do is drill a port hole and solder in a brass tube I can do that. Does anyone have access to a picture of the location of the port on a 1920 or 1945 with a vacuum advance port? It sounds like a port on the main body of the carb above the base is the correct location? If I'm understanding correctly.

I am still going to need a carb as the one on the pickup has stripped out screws in the base.

Ported vacuum is derived from above throttle plate. Vacuum is seen only when sufficient air flow is passing through barrel of carburetor once engine is above idle RPM. My friend Bernoulli explains.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Ok, I did the HEI conversion on my pickup this weekend. Because this PU was a Lean Burn model I had to buy and install everything at once. I don't like changing so many things on a motor all at once because of the mystery surrounding any inherent problems that may result.
I think the conversion went OK. BUT I'm having some issues, I think, are related to carburetion. When I let off the accelerator it falls flat and unless the choke is completely closed upon starting ( even warm) it won't start. So I can only assume it's starved of fuel.

I bought the only carb. on eBay I could find that that, most closely, resembled my original LB carb; only with a vacuum advance port ( Holley 1945). When it came I realized that all the automatic choke assembly would have to be switched over from the old carb. so I did that.

I did not rebuild the carb. as it was sold as a rebuilt carb that had been shelved for years. I thought I'd try my luck buuuuttt not so much.

My question to all you sl6 wizards is this: Is there any specific place I should get the carb. Kit?
If I order a kit am I going to get everything I need or do I need to buy other carb. components to make this rebuild complete?

Thanks guys for all the help you've given already. It will give this old pickup a new lease on life. I can already tell; even needing carb work.

From what vehicle was the carb originally removed?

I bought a late 70's 1945 off of ebay and had to rejet it for my truck before installation and tuning. Just a little searching about yielded the right jet size for a truck.

That's just it; the guy thought it was for a pickup but wouldn't commit to it of course. It is the right carb but I can see where jetting could be an issue. I'll have to look into it during the next warm spell. Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it.