Hello all,
I am a recently-joined member but have been visiting for quite some time. My congratulations and thanks for creating and maintaining such a valuable resource. I have a recently bought 68 D100 which came to me mainly in pieces and I am slowly getting back together. All I have of the slant 6 is the bottom end (no head, manifolds, carb). It turns freely but I have no idea of its history or its condition. I am going to take it to a machine shop for rebuilding (hopefully it is rebuildable) but first need to buy the missing pieces. Can I buy ANY head and manifolds and carb or should I steer clear of some or hunt others? This will be a daily driver eventually. I did not receive a transmission with the truck but do have an NP435 and bell housing from another slant truck. Thank you ahead of time for any advice I receive.

The NP235 is strong but you will only use 2ed through 4th. 1st gear is for crawling and is useless for daily driving. Try to find a A833 OD if you want a manual trans. Also check here to see if the bell houseing would take the A833 OD.
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-spee ... speed1.htm
The 2bbl carb would be the best choice for a daily driver as well as the stock cam. Look around the "for sale" section for parts.

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~Nic

No, the bolt patterns are not the same the only thing compatible is the bearing retainer bore... I currently have the only adaptor plate for this application and will be testing it on my car to see if it holds up... He would need a 1975-1987 bellhousing and all the linkage... Also the 60's trucks tended to use a NP bell with a passenger side fork and a remote slave cylinder....the clutch itself pumps a Pre-1967 single pot master cylinder to actuate the clutch... So he may have some workarounds to make a late mechanical linkage system work in this truck...

Technically his 68 weighs a smidge more than your 80's truck since the factory started cutting corners in the 70's so 1st gear will work fine if he didn't get the forest service 5.38 gear ratio put under it like some federal early 60's trucks did...

"Some assembly required".
Any head will bolt onto any block, yes. Easiest if you will stick to a pre-1981 head (assuming your engine is a pre-1981 item), and my preference is for pre-1975 heads because spark plug options are wider for them. All intake and exhaust manifolds bolt onto all heads. Get an exhaust manifold with an intact and working heat valve, or get Dutra Duals. If you want to use the original throttle linkage and stuff, get a 1-barrel intake manifold and this new carburetor (grab while the grabbing's good, that's a screamin' deal and nothing runs like a new carburetor!).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

AT dusteridiot:

He never said what bell houseing he had. I know the NP235 and the A833 have different mounting patterns as I did a swap a few years ago. I just wanted to give him some reading so he can tell which one he had. As for the 1st gear I still dont think he would use it. I only used mine once and that was to pull a stump out of the ground at my brothers house. I think he would be happier with the A833 as a daily driver if not an automatic. The NP235 are great but are better suited for farm trucks or tractors in my opinion.

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~Nic

so.........why not find a rusty or crashed doner truck with everything you need . Done right all the parts will match . In the end it will be way cheaper. Id look for something ugly from the 80s.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Thanks for all the quick replies. Yes, my bell housing has the passenger side fork and slave cylinder so, according to what I'm reading online, the OD 833 is out unless I also install new mechanical linkage and a new bell housing. According to the info I found on this website, I do have a pre-75 block so, as Dan suggested, I'll hunt a like model head. Sandy, great advice on the donor truck. Not much to choose from around here but that might be a good path to take. Dan, thanks for the link to the new ebay carb. Tomorrow I'm going to run down a carb I found on Craigslist tonight and if that doesn't work out, I'll probably grab the ebay carb. Dan, is that big vacuum diaphragm on the carb for the choke? I've seen mentioned in other posts a choke pull off. Will I need an exhaust manifold with one of those? Also, what is a working heat valve? Sorry for all the questions but things are falling into place and I just want to ensure I go about this the right way. Thanks again!

It wasn't an attack, but there are very limited scenarios on what mopar provided for this setup:

If he got an NP235/435 (some of the early 60's bells have 2 bolt patterns allowing the use of a 3 speed- not compatible with any of the late 3 speeds like A-903/A-230)...and the bellhousing, he only has two options and nothing else...

Large ugly bellhousing with the "closed face"with the passenger side fork and slave cylinder (on early trucks these have "ears" on the bottom side of the back of the housing for the wafer mounts since those trucks didn't use a crossmember mount...)

This bellhousing also requires the use of the direct drive 9 tooth starter (and on the early-60's bells it uses the 3 bolt version....)... the flywheel is also somewhat unique to this bell as well as the ring gear is a smidge larger in OD than the 70's versions...the offset on the mounting flange is different...and these come with dual patterns of bolt patterns allowing the use of the 11" clutch or the 10 1/2" clutch....

Or the 70's- 1987 bellhousing that has an open face, is much lighter...passenger side clutch fork (although there are some rare examples that used a slave cylinder like the 60's truck), this bellhousing allow use of the standard 10 tooth, and common mini-starter.... and only has one pattern for the 11" clutch...

...and none of this has been added to the 4 speed article...just from information posted here...

Cheers!

Nothing runs as well as a new carb.
That's the choke pull-off.
Whatever exhaust manifold you buy will have a cast-in pocket for mounting the choke. Stay away from '70-'72 exhaust manifolds which have an open hole instead of a closed pocket. If you can afford it, best just to go ahead and buy one of the new aftermarket exhaust manifolds...thus saving yourself the trouble of warped, cracked manifolds with faulty heat valves. The new manifolds are all '73-up type, which is fine; you can use a № 1231 electric choke kit with a 1-barrel carb such as the one previously linked, and if you ever decide to change to a 2bbl setup you can just swap to a № 1232 choke kit.
The exhaust manifold contains a thermostatic valve to direct exhaust either to or away from the underside of the intake manifold, to regulate the intake manifold's temperature for optimal driveability, performance, and economy. This is not just a cold-weather thing; it's well worth making sure that valve assembly is present, intact, and working.

Also, you'll want to get the three books described in this thread as soon as you can.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Awesome stuff, thanks very much Dan. Incidentally, I bought the NOS carb you found on ebay. Now I'll begin hunting those books.

so.........why not find a rusty or crashed doner truck with everything you need . Done right all the parts will match . In the end it will be way cheaper. Id look for something ugly from the 80s.


who says 80s trucks are ugly??? lol I kind of like them

Im not saying they are ugly.....Im saying find one that looks ugly (rust , dents, bad colour)

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I agree about the 80s trucks not being ugly. My D100 and W150 I consider quite handsome!

But finding a good donor with a slant six is getting hard around here. The odd truck pops up now and then, but most all of them are V8. I've seen exactly one slant six truck in the junkyard in the past 3 years.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.