Last night when coming home from work I made a right turn and the engine stalled I popped it in neutral and while coasting I tried to start it and no go. After I coasted as far as I could go (I was just 2 blocks from home) I stopped and popped the hood and did a quick insp. and found nothing visibly wrong. So I close hood get back in car and hit the key and it started zoom head home next right turn stall again.

Well got it home and this morning I changed the fuel filter and then started it warmed it a little kicked off choke and it idled fine but when I would give a some what quick step of the throttle it chokes out if I slowly push on the throttle it runs fine.

Question is what's up with it, accelerator pump?

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my first 6 1973 Plymouth Duster

Very easy to visually observe the output of the accelerator pump.

Remove air filter, hold choke open (so you can see past it) shine a flash light down carb throat (so you can see squirt), and activate the accelerator pump linkage or throttle linkage. See a strong squirt?

This assumes that there is fuel in the float bowl. You may want to crank the engine a bit first to be sure to pump fuel into the carb.

What you describe is classic symptoms of a faulty accelerator pump. when you crack open the throttle, the engine gets a big gulp of air. Without that squirt of fuel, the engine just falls on its face and sometimes quits altogether.

It's the accel. pump I'm really getting tired of putting carbs on this engine.

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my first 6 1973 Plymouth Duster

Buying remanufactured carbs from a parts store is really a bad idea. This has been documented many times. If you have the original carburetor, try and rebuild it and use it. If you don't, try and find a NOS one. If you can't do that, try getting a carburetor from www.nationalcarburetors.com

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I picked up a Super Six set up that came with what was the original carb and had it rebuilt. It ran fine for about a year and started seeping and soaking the gasket so on a recommendation I bought a "brand new" Holly that was supposed to be a /6 carb. It ran fine for about 8 mos. and it to started seeping. Had it rebuilt and the rebuilder said there was some part that after time vibrates loose causing the seeping. Well another 8 mos. and it started seeping again so I just bought the carb that's on the engine from Rock auto. With this carb the engine has been running the best since I went with the Super Six set up.

I did check on the National carbs and might get one of these because they are not much more than the price of a rebuild of the ones I already have and I don't trust my ability to do it myself.

Thanks Reed.

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my first 6 1973 Plymouth Duster

Don't doubt yourself! You CAN do a carb rebuild. The Carter BBD and Holley 2280 are simple carbs.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Your post is very limited on information, at least for Me

Does Your car have manual or automatic

Did you stomp on the gas rounding the corner

Does it stall while making left hand turns

Why didn't You leave the car in gear and let momentum try to restart the engine

Did you confirm it is a fuel problem and not an electrical

Did You check to see if there might be a loose wire shorting out the ignition or breaking contact when turning right

Has this ever happened like this before

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my first 6 1973 Plymouth Duster

FYI- post 1965 (I think that was the year, maybe it was 1964), Chrysler redesigned the 904 transmission and removed the rear oil pump from the transmisison. After the rear pump was removed, cars equipped with automatic transmissions could not be push started like manual transmissions. Letting a post 65 or 64 (?) 904 or 727 automatic transmission equipped car coast in gear will not start the engine and may damage the transmission.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Well I pulled the carb off the engine and then pulled the air horn which has the accelerator pump plunger connected to it and found the rubber seal was warped out of shape it's a wonder the carb worked at all. I had a rebuild kit I bought a while back for the other carb I had and I was able to swap the seal. I buttoned up the carb and put it back on the engine and to my wallets relief it's working like it never had a problem.

Thanks Reed for giving me the push to at least give it a try. Next time a total rebuild maybe lol.

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my first 6 1973 Plymouth Duster

Yay!

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.