What is leaking? Antifreeze? Sorry if I missed it.

If you are considering removing the head to stop the leak I would try another 5 or 10 pounds torque on the head bolts. What do you have to lose?

good luck![/quote]

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

It idles fine, just not in gear, after I set the timing back. I had set it as I had before the head gasket blew, it was at 12 advanced at about 800 rpm, then under 30 at about 3000 rpms, both without vacuum. It was over 30 with vacuum advance at higher rpms. When I checked it today, after I swapped the head gasket, it was higher than 12 advance (without vacuum and at idle) but it was about 1000 rpms. I can put it back where it was and check at 800 rpm, maybe I set it back too far.

brian

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Hmmm. I would be looking for a vacuum leak somewhere. Unless you are running a really big cam that doesn't like slow idle, you should be able to get the engine to idle in gear down to at least 600 or 650 RPM. I have gotten stock slants to idle as low as 350 RPM.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Leak is exhaust leak. Idling no sound, very quiet, but I took her out for a spin and I get the loud ticking as before.

I can try torquing the head down tighter, like you said, nothing to lose. I only torqued it to 75 lb-ft, maybe I can go higher? I did the factory recommended torque sequence, start at the middle work your way outward.

I don't think it's a vacuum leak, but I'll check. I have been over the manifolds the past three weeks chasing an exhaust leak (but it was the head gasket). I see no carbon tracks on the exhaust port portions of the gaskets, and it idles fine before I pulled back on the timing. I think the timing was fine where it was.

brian

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How could that FelPro head gasket leak again , so fast. Maybe the
metal between cylinder 3 and 4 has tiny depression on the top part
where the gasket sits or hopefully not, a tiny crack around that area.
Or crack or distortion on head between 3 and 4 cylinder.

Warpage? Otherwise there were no cracks or depressions that I could find. As I said, the surfaces seemed to be really flat when I check with a straight edge. The gasket could not have failed so quickly, you are correct. It must be a leak by some warpage or something. Unless the valve was sticking and I didn't catch the right problem. The valve springs seemed fine, I depressed them, they all seemed to require about the same amount of force; none resisted or seemed to stick, all valves visually were in good shape, none sunk or anything.

Obviously I fixed the rough running due to the failed gasket, but still, under load, even light load, there is a loud ticking, so there is an exhaust leak. I'll pull the manifolds and see if I missed something there before I repull the head.

I'm really close to putting a built 340 in this car...with a Tremec 5 speed. I grew up with the experience of the slant being not only bullet proof but also super dependable...the past three years have not proven out for me, this is my fourth slant, three rebuilds. I've been very good to all of them. First two where admittedly Chinese metal cams failing, but now I'm dealing with this....ahhh...

brian

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Hang in there, one thing at a time. We've all been tempted to go the V8 swap route - the bug hit me 4 years ago when I scored a super deal on a 360 from a known TV motorcycle guy- but a year later I was back to a slant six. It just kinda gets in your blood. Any old Joe can fix up a V8.

First thing I'd do is a leak down test. If your head gasket has failed again, you'd know pretty quick. If it's a valve, same story. If you have a valve that is sticking intermittently, that might be tougher to catch. But one step at a time.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

...is fairly easy, as I don't want to drop $8-10k right now on the aforementioned motor and tranny...still, I'm frustrated as hell with my slant six. Words I thought I'd never hear myself say. I'm just tired from the whole break down, reassembly and after all that having the issue still....

My brother's (stock, original) slant has about 300,000 miles on it...I can't seem to make it past 10k miles without issues.

b

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Ok...firstly the coolant leak. I've always been told not to use any type of coolant apart from plain old water on the initial run of any engine with gaskets with embossed sealant beads on them,they need a chance to cure with temperature prior to adding any type of additives...this came from an ACL rep via a few different machinists I've spoken to. Be it wrong or right I've always done it and never had issue. I have no idea if the Fel pro gasket has sealant beads or not,but that's what I'd do.
As far as slants not being reliable, well your brother has proven the contrary to this statement, find the contributing factor to ALL the issues you've had....look in the mirror. I'm sorry if this sounds harsh but face the facts,you won't like it I'm sure,but it's fact. So building a tough 340 will fix it?! Anyone can build a V8? Give me a break.if you can't build a glorified stationary engine then good luck with a higher stressed and revving 340,your talking over 100% increase in power over a slant with a 50% increase in capacity and spinning it to the lofty heights of 6500.. Virtually unheard of in a slant and still make power in most cases....and that's an easier engine to build?? A tremec will be sweet? Suuuure,if your racing it then add 50% to the purchase cost of the TKO to get it shifting right on the 2/3 shift at 5500+ RPM,great boxes but from the factory they are no better than any other mass produced product. I REALLY want you to fix your junk,am I playing the devils advocate? Yep,now get your crap together and prove me wrong.

It's not a coolant leak, it's a loud ticking sound that I'm attributing to an exhaust leak.

After some reflection, I think the signs are pointing back to valves. I really don't think this is a leak.

The good news is that nothing was bent or broken in there, all visually was OK.

The burnt through head gasket pointed directly to #4 having an issue. Now that I've put it back together, and run it through a couple of heat cycles, I'll pull the valve cover again, retorque the head bolts and check the valve lash. Maybe the adjuster moved, or the valve is sticking. That was my original thought, time to recheck.

Brian

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Then it doesn't sound like it should be the head gasket. Hang in there you will find it!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Maybe an adjuster got out of whack; I'll check on the weekend.

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Didn't get to the Dart this weekend. Had to change water pump on CTS (very easy) and install a new disposal and dishwasher (that took a lot of time).

Next weekend...

b

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Had some time today, so I warmed it up (after the head gasket swap) and yes, the valve lash adjusters were too tight, (new/different head gasket) and the one on #4 exhaust valve was way off, must have moved. Funny though it seems pretty tight, like the others. I went a bit loose, about 0.001 more than spec for IN/EX adjusters. My cam calls for 0.018 intake and 0.021 exhaust, so I did 0.019 and 0.022.

Here is my latest "sterile field" idea to keep the oil contained (as many of you know, I'm a clean freak):

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... p.jpg.html

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... i.jpg.html


Took it around the block, the loud sound is gone. I'll have to test it again tomorrow...but first a timing question.

At 800 rpm, I check the timing with vacuum line pinched off. I'm at 10 degrees advanced. When I rev it up to 2000 rpms the total is more than 30 degrees, closer to 40 degrees. I turn the dizzy back so at 800 rpm it reads about TDC, zero advance, but when I rev it up to 2000 or so rpm, it still reads above 30 degrees.. What gives?

When I first installed the engine, I was sure that I set the timing at 10 degrees advanced and when I revved it up (without vacuum advance) it was still just under 30 degrees advanced...or was I dreaming? I can check my line pinch again, maybe it was leaking.

Thanks for any timing setting tips. I was always told that total mechanical advance should not be above 30 degrees, but the way it looks, I'd have to go retarded at idle to get less than 30 at higher rpms.

Brian

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I have a super six dizzy and an "11 OR" vacuum can on it, plus I have a blue and a green spring from the special kit in there. It seemed to be just right before, it might be I didn't have the vacuum line fully pinched.

brian

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