Ok so I can't seem to find en entire super six setup together and will have to piece it together a bit....

From what I read in the super six article, there was no differeence between the super 6 and the single barrel setup as far as the exhaust manifold?

And since ours is a 1980, with the round heat riser weight, any super six intake should , then, work with our manifold?

Any issues to doing that?

Yes, you are correct. The exhaust manifolds are basically the same. There are some differences where the choke thermostat bolts on. The choke pocket for the 2 bbl is open on the top and side (towards the rear).
Your biggest hurdle will be the kick down linkage. The linkage is very different between the one and two barrel setups. Unless you go with an aftermarket cable conversion (Lokar setup), you will need to find the super six linkage. If you already have it, you are ahead of the game.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

No, sir. The choke pocket differences are not 1bbl vs. 2bbl, they are by year. All the '73-up exhaust manifolds have the choke pocket you describe, that is open at top and rear. The factory 2bbl choke will bolt right in place of the original 1bbl choke, but the № 1232 Electric choke kit is a much, much better pick when swapping to a 2bbl (it'll bolt right on, as well).
That is true, and the factory 2bbl kickdown parts are now difficult and expensive to get hold of. Lokar is one (not very good) option. See this thread for better kickdown options.

You will also need the shorter 2bbl throttle cable. That is this one.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Is it safe to assume my 1980 would have the electric choke already? Can that be reused for the 2 bbl?

No and no. Sorry.

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Joshua

On Dan's point about Lokar cables; I have used Lokar and not had any issues with the cable working properly, though be careful of the locknut/threads they are aluminum and can't be over tightened (the sheath is braided SS, why not the ends? - $profit$ is the answer). I only used the cable; I fabricated all the rest of my linkage. Given the aluminum bits, I'd say Lokar are overpriced, but adequate. Use a bit of blue loctite on the aluminum nut and just snug it.

That said, Dan is recommending the Bouchillon setup. Those guys at Bouchillon are very nice and very well versed in mopars and mechanical setups. I recently priced a 5.7L hemi 6-speed manual conversion and Randy was very helpful and knows his stuff. If anyone wants to see the quote, pm me.

FYI,

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Thanks....I just took a look at the pictures after figuring out where they were and yeah, we just have the coil type.

Reading some other threads, the Bouchilon setup is for 4 barrels but apprantly can be "cobbled" to work for the 2bbl I am hoping to use.

I have a lead on a setup that includes the stock kickdown linkages and the gas pedal (and I assume the cable?)......does anyone know if that stuff should fit "just fine" or if its model dependent?

As I recall the fellow offering the stuff was using it on a 65.....

I am getting the feeling that this stuff is mostly "universal"? But want to be sure for my 80 Volare.

I dont want to hold up the project trying to figure this out after we get the engine back.....still a few weeks off....

I'm using the Lokar cable lockdown on my '73 Dart super six conversion and it's working great. I manufactured the linkage with a grinder and a drill. Follow the instructions in the package for adjustment.

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Greg loves his daily driver.
1973 Swinger 225 /6 Seats 6

The bracketry and linkage aren't model-specific -- what's specific is the throttle cable (type of end ferrule, length). See this thread for kickdown options.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Here's a followup on the manifolds.

Picked up the intake manifold......and will be picking up the engine tomorrow, along with all our other bits and pieces including our original 1 bbl intake/exhaust manifold, still bolted together.

I had half heartedly attempted to separate them before we took them there, but then figured they could be resurfaced together so didn't bother.

What is the best route for getting the two apart after being together for 36 years? LOL I need the exhaust manifold to STAY perfect and intact so we can re-mate it with the 2bbl intake.

AND -- what is the best gasket to get for the mating? Or is a rockauto or advance auto gasket fine?

Thanks all!

Can anyone advise on this? A metal gasket came with the kit so I guess we'll use that.

We seem to be hung up with the two bolts that go thru the two manifolds....nuts are off, but the bolts are froze....not sure if they are supposed to be threaded into the manifold or if they just punch thru.....

The bolt head ain't turning and I think it will break if I try much harder....I need to use the exhaust manifold and don't want to risk ot....

I was thinking of using a torch and heating the manifold hokes up a hit?

These bolts are known to crystallize and become very brittle while at the same time rust up in the exhaust manifod. The bolts do thread into the exhaust manifold but pass through the intake manifold. Penetrating lubricant and heat are your best bet for freeing the seized bolts. Still, exect them to snap. Once you get them out of the exhaust manifold, replace them with grade 8 bolts with anti-seize coatig on the threads. Probably not a bad idea to chase the threads in the exhaust manifold as well.

Cut the bolts, drill them out and use long bolts as replacements. Don't bother to tap the exhaust manifold. Use a low strength bolts. If you ever take it apart again, you can just break the bolts if they are corroded. Makes disassembly a breeze.

Well, they did indeed snap. Right at the exhaust manifold on the bplt's head side.

I heated the bejeezus out of one.....only have MAP gas so not as hot as it could of been I guess.

I tried PB blaster and BluTorch as well as candle wax (worked on getting an exhaust stud out of a head for me once)

Not sure I feel comfortable drilling them out....may en up hacking the manifold if I try...LOL....may take it to a machine shop. In retrospect, I should have had the engine shop separate them for me.

ALso found that one tang on the thermostatic flapper assembly is gone, so when it heats up, the flapper is just loose.....can that thermostatic coil be replaced? Or is this exhaust ,manifold junk now?