Hey guys,
So just got a 63 wagon with the 170 in it. The temp gauge is not working right. It as soon as started pins to the Hot side. I have tried to order a new one, but keep getting ones that are too big to fit in the hole. Any ideas? Also the fuel gauge does not work at all(and has not for a while according to the old owner) and wondering if the sensor is in the gas tank? I have always had Chevys (56 bel air wagon and 4 door post) so just trying to get into the Dodge. Thanks for all the help!!
Jesse

Welcome to the board.

Fuel + temp gauge malfunctions go together because the two of them are controlled by a 5v voltage regulator built into the one of them. It's not a separate plug-in type of voltage regulator as used in later models.

Temp gauge pegs "H" when you turn on the ignition usually means the instrument cluster voltage regulator's points have stuck closed. The fuel gauge would peg "F", too, but it's probably been cooked to death by the faulty regulator. Eventually the temp gauge will also cook to death and fall to "C", never to rise again.

Get a solid-state regulator; RT Engineering makes the best ones, and the linked page goes into detail on how to bypass the faulty internal regulator. It shows Imperial gauges rather than Dart ones, but they differ only in minor detail.

Now, that's the most likely scenario. Other causes for a pegged temp gauge and inoperative fuel gauge are a temp sender (or its wire) shorted to ground, and a fuel gauge sender (in the tank) that's faulty or has a sunk float. To check for this, remove the temp sender wire from the sender and keep its end away from ground. Turn on the key. If the gauge doesn't move, then it's a shorted sender. If the gauge still pegs, it's either a faulty instrument voltage regulator or a grounded-out temp sender wire.

The thread size for the temp sender changed between '63 (large thread with flat slide-on terminal) and '64 (small thread with round push-on terminal). Sounds like your engine has the smaller hole. Try a Standard Ignition № TS-17 or NAPA Echlin TS-6178 and see if that gets you reasonable readings on the temp gauge.

Complete new fuel sender is this one. Individual repair parts:
Float: Ford P/N COAZ-9202-B
Strainer "sock": GM P/N 5651 705
Gasket: Chrysler P/N 6031 475
Sender grounding clip: Chrysler P/N 2258 862

Also see this post and this one, and get a factory service manual soon's you can. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Alright Dan!!!
So the gas gauge does not move. The gauge its self is newer in color, meaning that the white is a little brighter than the other gauges. Its at about 3/4 tank. The temp gauge does not rise if not connected. So I am assuming that the sensor is bad. It does seem to wiggle a little from the connection on the top down in the body of the sensor so that was my first guess, and why I was trying to replace it. I will try to track down the part tomorrow and let you know what I find out. Also will order the manual ASAP. Thanks!!

Sender's definitely an easier fix than voltage regulator.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ok Dan,
So new part, same issue. But now it seems that the gas gauge is down on E. Would the temp sensor from the newer head send the same ohms that the 63 gauge is expecting?

Faulty gauge(s) and/or instrument cluster voltage regulator.

Should be compatible resistance from new sender.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So you think back to the internal regulator? Should I go ahead and bypass it?
Thanks for the Help!!!

Also going through the notes from the owner before me. The 170 was removed and replaced with a 225 CID. Would this have anything to do with gauges not functioning properly?

It's why the temp gauge sender listed for your car didn't fit. The '60-'63 heads have a larger-thread hole for the sender than the '64-up heads. Other than that, no, it's not the reason.

I do think you're looking at regulator bypass/upgrade and probably some gauge replacement as well.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Ok Thanks! I will order the upgrade RTE limiter today. Where do you suggest for gauges? Is there a way to test the gauges before I replace them?

You'll need to place a Parts Wanted ad for the gauges; someone'll have 'em for you. A quick and crude test is to touch a 9v square battery to the terminals on the back of the gauge and see if it moves. But once the gauge has been pegged hard and internally heated up (but before it cooks to death) it can still work but no longer indicate correctly.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks again Dan! Is there a parts wanted spot on this form? I cant find it if so. If not do you suggest a place? or local Craigslist?
Thanks again!! The wagon thanks you, and so do I!!!!

Parts Wanted is over here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hey Dan,
pulling the cluster out, and it looks like there is a circuit board there? Is that right?

Update,
So we pulled the dash out, hooked up the RTE limiter, and nothing. We tested the limiter, and it was bouncing from 2v to about 7v back and forth, but would not move the temp gauge that when in the car would peg. So we tried with the 9v and it would peg, but much slower, and it would not move the gas gauge at all. So I am guessing both gauges are shot. I did find a good old boy locally that may be able to rebuild them, but if not will try to source some in working order. Thanks for all the help!