I have the first 4 cylinder chambers full of water and nothing is leaking - not one drop has leaked out of any of the chambers in this head.

I hope this is a good thing!

Wish I had a syringe so I could suck the water out and see what the chambers cc's are right now...

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Sounds like your head is fine. You had compression in the first 4 cylinders.

Head gasket on its way.

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I'm thinking it should at least make it 600 miles back up north!
I hope!!!

Thanks, and I will be watching for it...

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

The following are two shots taken of a 2' aluminum square resting on the head between 5 and 6 pistons.

This first one shows the light that comes through when it is sitting on the deck across all of the pistons. As you can see, NO LIGHT comes under.


When I try to shove a .003 feeler gauge under it, it starts to go under and then stops and starts to bend!

This second picture shows the light coming under the blade with the .003 feeler gauge sitting on the deck at the same spot... that is sitting the blade on the gauge... so a .003 gap is huge to the light!


Opinions?
I have tried this very thing all over the head.
Same results...
Not enough space to mess with any light or feeler gauge?

Am I doing this wrong?
Missing something?

Thanks,
I am trying to figure out how to clean the block deck now and I do not have a bolt in the head of the motor to turn it with... what size do I need to get for that now?

Thanks again for all the help...
dan

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

If you go side to side (lifter gallery to freeze plug side of the block) and it's only .003 or under... and you do the same to your head at that point and it's less than .003.. then a composite gasket like felpro/victor reinz/ endurotech will still seal...

This is a bit 'crude' since a framing square isn't as good a straight edge as a machinist's edge... but for what you need to do, it will be fine...

Just make sure that you get the runners on #5 and #6 intake gasket to seal well so those cylinders don't lean out and burn the passage again... you may need to run the straight edge across your intake/exhaust stack mating surface and see if anything is not 'even'...

Have a good turkey day

Okay, I have done that very same thing on the block deck - side to side, front to back, 45 degree angle, all over the head and the block and there is not one spot that appears to have a single bit of light coming under it - and if I try the feeler gauge anywhere, same results - it hits the blade and bends...

I am still going to see if I can find a local outfit that will check it for me...
I will not have the gaskets until Monday, so have time...

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Amazon tracking shows your head gasket should arrive on Friday, Dan.

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

okee dokee!
thanks!

figured that would give me plenty of time to check things and have it ready to go back together when all the gaskets get here.

I plan on putting the IE on before I set the head onto the block...
neighbor across the way said he would be more than willing and ready to help - and to not tell my sister! - she would tell me to leave him alone and offer to do it herself! LOL

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Might be easier to put the head on without the manifolds (lighter) but then again I'm not familiar with the A-100 engine compartment space.

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

It would be VERY difficult for a small framed person to install the manifolds with the head and engine in the doghouse of an A100. MUCH easier to put the manifolds on the head with the head out of the van.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Glad someone had insight on that aspect

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Yea, and I have help to actually lift and set it in and on the block when I get ready to put it on.

It will be much easier to get the IE on properly and bolted on and then lift and set...

It is a royal pain in the butt to get the set bolted on from the side while laying on your side, so to speak! lol

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Yes, I've only seen pictures of the A-100 engine box; I thought it came apart to expose the whole engine cleanly, that would be easier than leaning down into an engine bay. I thought the sides came off, but even if true you'd have to take out the seats...

http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... sort=3&o=0

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Brian, over the years I have gotten good at taking the side covers and top off to tune this thing. The second the carp hit the fan here, I took the sides and top off and they are sitting in the back of the garage.

When I took it over to the guys shop, it had no covers and no seats in it, as it does now. He only had to work on the motor - nothing in the way - another reason why I was so pissed at his $1600.00 bid to "fix" the head!!!

Anyway, it is far easier to install the intake and exhaust manifolds together while the head is out. That way you can get to all of the bolts and nuts and get all the washers in the right places. Once it is together, it is just a matter of dodging the gas line and oil dipstick to set the head and intake together as one unit.

Since I have a heavy duty guy that has offered to help as soon as I am ready to lift it on - that is what I will be doing. I have already explained all of the process to him, so he is on board and knows what to expect. The by pass hose for the water pump for instance has to be put onto the head at the same time it is being dropped onto the block - but that is rather easy if you have help to guide and hold it while it gets centered and dropped onto the hose.

It's just a matter of getting all the gaskets and finish the cleaning of the block now. I marked TDC on the damper so I can cut a groove in it so I never have to guess anymore too! That is one of todays projects. Laying underneath the rig with a hacksaw blade! That sounds like fun for a guy with a screwed up back huh?!?!?

Anyway, hope y'all had a good meal and fun with family yesterday!
Later,
dan

_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

Thanks, Dan, for the extra details on the engine cover assembly. Its cool to see the SL6 in different environments, vans, boats, farm machinery, forklifts, chippers...work horse.

On the water pump bypass hose, I've done it both ways. With the head off, guiding the head's pipe nipple to drop into the by pass hose, and also with the head on. The latter is tough, but only takes a few minutes of working the hose. I usually get the head side of the hose on first, then lube the other hose end and water pump nipple a bit (with saliva, actually). I start with one lip of the hose end on the nipple; it's kinked pretty badly at this point, with the kink in the hose pointing toward me, away from the block. I hold the hose on each side to prevent lateral movement and push hard on the kink with both thumbs - it slips right on this way. I put the hose clamps on after the hose is in place, they just get in the way.

Good luck with your fix, let us know how it goes.

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2