I did not see this covered in the Sticky but I have kind of a silly question. What is the best chain/strap/etc. lift point method to remove and install an engine. I really don't like to use the manifold as a lifting point. Just curious as to how some of you that have done this numerous times perform an engine removal and install. I am putting a different engine into my sons 87 D-100 because the original S/6 threw a rod. I pulled the head and the removal was easy but doing the install is going to be a little trickier. I am also bolting the trans onto engine and installing as one unit.Let me know if this should not be done.It just makes sense to do as one unit and not have to align trans after putting engine in.Looking forward to your suggestions!!

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!987 D-150 Short Bed,Slant-6, RWD,A-833,2007 Ram Mega Cab 3500 RWD Cummins 5.9

There are two bolt locations on the top of the head. They are on the manifold side of the valve cover.

The rear one is the hangar point if the transmission is on the engine.



Guido

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When installing an engine / trans combination, use a smooth strap, fastened between both the front and rear bolt holes in the head.
This allows you to change the angle of the assembly as you drop it into the engine bay.
Start with the lift hook somewhat forward for a steeper angle and then move towards center once the trans tail has moved under the vehicle.
I like to use a floor jack to support the trans tail as the assembly slides-in and downward.
DD

Thanks for getting back with me. First are the holes you speak of threaded holes and can you get to them without removing the valve cover? I have an equalizer tool that came with my engine hoist when I purchased it. It allows you to angle the engine/trans as you install into engine bay. I am going to get this install done this week end so I can get my son off my case. Actually I am pretty excited to get it in also because it is going to be a sharp little truck when we get done with it. Thanks again, I am sure I will have many more questions before this is all over.

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!987 D-150 Short Bed,Slant-6, RWD,A-833,2007 Ram Mega Cab 3500 RWD Cummins 5.9

Yep, those bolt holes are right next to the valve cover both have threads and i have used that equalizer with a chain to pluck the engine out, i've also used a tow strap wrapped under the engine. The two bolt holes are easier though and I always take my trans out first then the engine but i have a manual trans and a lift to use so that may be a harder option for someone working in a driveway with a cherry picker.

Kev

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Are you saying having a manual trans opposed to an automatic is easier to work with?

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!987 D-150 Short Bed,Slant-6, RWD,A-833,2007 Ram Mega Cab 3500 RWD Cummins 5.9

Splitting the motor and trans apart by pulling the motor is a pain with a stick shift cuz the input shaft, I always had a hard time being able to pull the engine far enough away from the trans and still clear the front rad support wall. Thats why i pull my trans first then its a piece of cake. Taking engine and trans out at the same time isn't that bad I just have found less headaches taking trans out first even if it takes longer.

Kev

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Doing an "engine only" swap is a lot easier with an automatic trans.
DD

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Another AP5 valiant still going strong.

what size bolt do you need for these holes?

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3/8" NC You might have some clearance problems between your equalizer mount tabs and the edge of the valve cover. The beauty of those two particular threaded holes are that they balance the engine/trans assembly out rather nicely.

Roger

You can get one of these to change angle of the engine really easily as you pull it and put it back in:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarte ... 67441.html

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

We used one of these when we reinstalled our slant, but to be honest, not sure it helped us a whole lot.....it actually got in the way, the way we were set up. We needed as much height as possible for the lift, so we went short on the chains from the leveler.....and it ended up hitting the firewall in our F body.......and I still couldnt get just the right angle.....

The lean of the slant seemed to work against the leveler.....

I am sure some or maybe much of it was user error.....

Yes, I removed the long chains that came with it and used short length pieces, like 3 links each. See pic:http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart/media/IMG_5260_zpsy1pfllcg.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

So, I use 3-link chain pieces for the bolts to the head and for the leveler to the engine puller pin. This gives you plenty of height. Also the knob on the leveler will need a lock nut (or lock tight) as the one that came with it kept falling off.

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2