the OEM style radiator in the 68 Barracuda is leaking again. Had it repaired last spring.
which leads me to the two questions below:

1) Anyone have experience with Engineered Cooling Products radiators?
They use a two tube design, two one inch tubes that seems to make sense compared to using three smaller tubes.

EPC has a claim on their web site that the radiators are made in the USA, well I called and spoke to a person there,, the answer I got was, 'most of the radiators are made right in Chicago IL,, just not the ones for the Mopar A bodies' . So any recommendations on aftermarket aluminum radiators?

2) I found that I can buy an aftermarket OEM style radiator from RockAuto for 182.79 + shipping

so is there any real advantage to an all aluminum radiator over an OEM style radiator?

Lower wt and better cooling with aluminum. I have used several universal fit Chevy style radiators from Griffin, Be Cool, and Afco. This requires making your own mounts and they might not look as "tidy" as an OEM top/bottom tank style. You can fit something like 26" max width and 19" height. 19" is the std ht for the universal rads. I have gone as narrow as 21" and that works fine but then you might want to fill the holes on one side or the other. I never bothered on the turbo car (21" width) and it cools fine. $200 for a good one, more if you want to trans cooler as well.

Griffin is lightest, but less flange width and strength there. Afco is a bit heavier, but more mounting options. Be Cool is a mix.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I purchased a Champion radiator for my Desoto. It fit perfectly .....they changed an outlet size for me. The work on the rad is beautiful.

I got the 3 row option and would recommend that anyone do the same.

The rad was shipped promptly in a bombproof box.

Highly recommended.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

All the new radiators that I have seen from Rock Auto and Advance....etc have been cheapo crappola. I would never mess with one again. I have install 2 Griffins in my vehicles and I like them very much. Two 1" rows work well. Takes a little fab work, but not that hard for sure.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

My "buy the best stuff once and then not have to think about it again for a long time" solution to the radiator problem is described in detail here and in principle here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Where's the leak?

Seam and outlet leaks you can usually fix yourself..........

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I believe it is leaking from the core just above the radiator out flange. The prior leak was a split where the outlet flange was soldered to the lower tank.

From the receipts in the glove box the radiator dates back to 1980, I don't know with absolute certainty, but I am thinking 37+ years is probably about the expected life of a brass - copper radiator,,


and SSD thanks, I had seen that post,, I had hopes that the EPC product would be domestic, cause the 400 $ tag from back in 08 has probably gone up.

The replacement radiator was delivered today

I ended up working through the Champion company direct and not working through a distributor.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@ ... 1069354916

I ordered an EC 2374, which is the 22 inch (core measurement v8 radiator)
and I had them move the upper radiator connector from the far left driver side to the passenger side so the center of the relocated connector is 3 inches from the center of the radiator.

Initially I was working with a Champion distributor for the radiator and the relocation of the connector, the distributor wanted $90.00 for the modification and what they planned to do was cut off the existing connector, weld a plate over that hole and move the connector where I wanted it,,to me that was going to look like something that was modified to make it fit,,,

I called Champion to get their input, what they suggested was taking an existing EC 2374 and removing the entire back plate from the upper tank, fabricating a replacement with the relocated inlet and then welding that back.

Well,, you got to know me, I wanted to talk with the person doing the fabrication-welding,, it took a while, but Champion came through and I was connected with a shop guy in the Champion CA fabrication area, and he walked me through how he would modify and test the radiator..the tech said although Champion covers many styles of radiators, there is 100 times that amount out there, they are have a process set up to take a radiator that is real close and change it to what the customer needs, and they want to do that without patches or obvious change marks.

made sense to me,, the Champion radiator in the 68 Barracuda was made in China, but the modification to make it fit a slant six was done by a certified welder in CA,

I'm glad you had the same excellent experience I had.

Dadtruck; If I may be so nosey....what was your final cost, going that route with mods at the "factory"?
I need to get myself a three-row narrow core, but have the fill neck extended about three inches for my T-bucket.

Roger

157.00 for the radiator (two tube)
80.00 for the modification
27.95 shipping

264.95 total

Well, shoot! That isn't bad, at all. I was waiting to hear 450-500. Looks like I'll have to contact them.

Thanks.....Roger

My Champion radiator was identical to the original....and bolted right in.

I immediately drove to Zihuatenejo Guerrero and back without any grief.

It came with a rad cap and drain valve.

if I remember correctly that is just past Mooresville IN on highway 67,,

actually.....way past.

Its a day south of Tequila...

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....