We did that...and to us it seemed fine.....had it been perfect I guess I wouldnt be having the issue....but as I said, looked fine to us....

Thanks Greg!

OOOHHHHH the place next to the viking! I never noticed them there!
Thanks for the recommendation.

I am gonna try calling this week and see what they say.

I think our plan is:

Pull manifolds as a stack.....look for obvious signs of leakage at the hot box and if not, leave the stack together as is and then look for gaps with a straight edge again.....and maybe have it planed anyways.

If there appears to be a leak at the hot box, then I guess pull it apart, use a new remflex at the hot box, reassemble to the bare head surface to get alignment right, tighten the bolts for the stack, then get it planed, then reassemble with the remflex.

So, I have been calling local shops and so far everyone says they are not set up for planing/surfacing as large an intake/exhaust assembly as the slant 6 has......I can call the shop that redid our engine as they did the original 1bbl exhaust and intake for us.....turns out we never used it and wasted that $60....

So at this point, hoping that the new setup is pretty straight and that the green gasket just wasnt the right thing for our particular setup....

Note of caution, I had coolant leaks around my manifold studs that were not obvious, i.e. the coolant was being sucked into the intake ports through/past the Remflex gasket. I had to remove the manifolds to see the leaks. The only signs I had were excess water in the exhaust (and slow coolant loss). In the picture (link) below you can see the coolant stains around the ports. Also note an exhaust port leak (carbon deposits, this was due to warpage of the manifold, not the gasket's fault). The remflex gasket was soaked with coolant but there was no coolant running down from it, onto the block, the gasket acted like a sponge and held the coolant sufficiently without drips, while more soaked in from the leaks around the studs.

See, for example: http://tinyurl.com/leaky-stud

FYI,

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

To seal my studs properly, I drained sufficient coolant so the head's water jacket was empty (about a gallon or so), cleaned and dried the threads thoroughly (wire brush, some solvent, time...) then use Permatex 59214 thread sealant. Apply to stud threads and head threads, assemble and let it set up for 24 hours before installing the manifolds. Here is a pic of it drying...

http://tinyurl.com/59214-drying

no more leaks. I probably used more sealant than needed, note the extra as white rings around the base of some of the studs, but it's fine. I use this sealant on oil pressure sending unit, gas lines to carbs, etc. It eventually hardens, but you can snug parts even after months and it doesn't crack (playing with my fuel lines, still doesn't leak).

Brian

_________________
https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I looked closely around the green gasket for any indication of coolant and saw nothing....i don't recall seeing any traces like in your pics (thanks by the way!) .the coolant level had seemed to be holding steady since the rebuild so I think (hope) we are ok there....

Ended up having the stack planed and used the remflex...sealed up good far as I can tell.

Car is running great now....so quiet under the hood!

Gonna check the torque on the nuts again after a few cycles though remflex claims that is not needed.....

Shadango,
If you've still got those 1 bbl manifolds lying around I'd take them off your hands for the right price. I just took mine off today and the exhaust one is cracked.

We still have them and the exhaust manifold is in good shape EXCEPT that the flapper valve spring is busted.....so we ended up buying a new Dorman piece....not sure if that matters to you or not...

PM me if still interested.

Thanks!