What is the best/cost effective replacement PCV valve for a 68 225? The Fram valves don't work past 5 minutes and the $40.00 Mopar repro valve is way overpriced! There must be an inexpensive but good quality valve somewhere. Anyone know of one?

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'68signet

"Living analog in the digital age."

I've had good luck with Purolator and Fram. When I bought my car it had an AC Delco PCV. Just a matter of preference.

I've never had problems with Fram ones either... they are pretty simple, ball spring and housing I believe. If yours are getting clogged or somehow fail that quickly you may have other issues....

My fram valve is almost 2 years old and its still working fine(just tested it) however I plan to buy a new one soon.

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Mike C
http://cuda.iclownz.com
67 - Barracuda Coupe - 225 - Automatic

Well, I'm pretty sure it's a faulty PCV problem. The darn thing rattles at idle when connected to the valve cover and creates too much of a vacuum leak to sustain a steady idle. If I keep my finger over the bottom of the valve at idle (to seal off the open vacuum line) it idles really well but with my finger off the valve it rattles to beat heck (telling me it doesn't seal for some reason or just NFG) and it barely keeps running. The carb, a BBS, was just professionaly rebuilt so I know that isn't the problem. The base gasket is sealing, the intake/exhaust gasket is fine and the valve cover gasket is sealing. The PCV grommet fits tight around the valve but I guess it could be leaking. I've tried almost everything else. Nothing else could be creating the leak except the PCV valve. You guys really think the Fram valves are okay? Any other strange vacuum gremlins I should be looking for in this 1968 BBS \225 set-up?

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'68signet

"Living analog in the digital age."

Im not sure your problem is that complicated. I would adjust the carb idle mixture until it ran nicely with the PVC valve operating correctly. If it runs better with the PVC plugged your idle mix is too lean.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Use genuine Mopar PCV valves for best results. The metal ones are expensive but last for several decades, so the expense is small in real terms. Year One also has a supply of the original metal valves (I know, I sold them to them!).

To save money, you can use the plastic valve, which works fine and can easily be made to work in the '60-'68 "chimney" style PCV valve -- just buy the correct grommet for the valve at the same time (spec a grommet and valve for a '91 Dodge D150 pickup with a 318 engine and you'll get the right valve and grommet. Place the PCV valve through the chimney cap from the top, then snap the grommet onto the valve's underside from underneath. Then push the cap-and-valve assembly onto the valve cover.

And you're right, Fram is pretty much crap through their whole line.

68 chimney style? I have never seen a 68 with that style and my 67 doesnt that style either... Was is just used is small cases or something?

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Mike C
http://cuda.iclownz.com
67 - Barracuda Coupe - 225 - Automatic

The "3 hole/2 grommet" flat-top style started in '70 and continued all the way up through the end.

The "2 chimney" ridge-top style started in '60 and ended, from what I've seen in the yards over the years, in either '67 or '68. Now that I think about it, it's probably a mid-'67 change, since '69 was the first year for blue-painted \6s and I've seen original red covers of the type I'm about to describe:

For '68 and/or '69, there was a ridge-top cover with a front chimney (for a push-on oil cap) but no rear chimney. Instead of a rear chimney, it had a hole for a grommet. Originally the metal valve was used, but the plastic valve goes in the same grommet. I actually like these covers better than the '60-'67 types, because the grommet seals better than the PCV chimney ever did (oil seepage) and it's easier to use the current-production plastic valve.