Is this Manifold on ebay going to fit my 1966 170 Valiant? The heat riser valve is stuck and wont function properly.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172540343331?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

also the intake has a broken bolt on top where a pod that has a rod that goes to the carburetor. the car has a bog when you first hit the throttle but after it warms up it goes away. would the intake below be a good replacement?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281966441761?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

The car has 56k original miles, it just needs some maintenance from sitting inside for years, would like to get it into perfect original order before doing anything else. going to adjust the valves, do the fuel line mod and would like to fine a original carburetor to replace mine and then I would know everything is right. it currently holds 17-18 inches of vacuum at idle. any help identifying good original replacement parts and advice would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Shawn

_________________
1966 Valiant Signet 170

Welcome on the board!

The 1966-type exhaust manifold is no longer available, only the '73-up type can be bought, but it will fit and work just fine on your '66 with a few other minor changes. The one you found on eBay is an excellent pick; it's a good American-made unit (aftermarket items are Chinese and the quality is okeh if you pick carefully, but the American ones are better).

Your 1966 choke thermostat won't fit or work correctly on this exhaust manifold, so pick up a № 1231 Electric choke kit which'll drop right on and work well for you.

There aren't any bolts integral to the intake manifold, nor any pods with rods that go to the carburetor; it's unlikely your intake manifold needs to be replaced. Please show us a pic of what you're talking about on your intake manifold. The one you found on eBay is a gamble, because it's a type that was not reliably manufactured without leaks at its weld joints. Also, you'd have to buy additional parts to block off the EGR ports on this intake. Also, $100 is way too much to spend on a 1bbl intake manifold.

It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions.

You'd have to wait a long time to find a new exactly-correct carburetor, or even a new fit-and-function-drop-on unit. And "remanufactured" carbs are junk. With low miles, you might still have the original carb—your best option would be to refurbish it (or have that done). Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

Sounds like you're already on track to do a valve adjustment. Other tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this post, though the distributor cap and rotor info in that post are outdated—it's worth your time and effort to do like this (long thread; read the whole thing), and very much worth your time and effort to ditch the points-condenser ignition system by means of the HEI upgrade.

Beyond that, see here.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

_________________
1966 Valiant Signet 170

ok so this is my intake, exhaust and carb. I guess my question is..... If the original stuff needs extensive work, which intake and carb would go with the exhaust I posted. If I bought the exhaust then I would just like to bolt on the intake with new gaskets and the carb that would work the easiest. there is a vacuum gage in the car, so I could tune the carb with that once it is on. and I guess the linkage is going to be a pain also. and does anyone happen to have all these parts cleaned and painted ready to install???? I would be interested. I would even consider a aftermarket intake if that made sense, my main concern is only buying parts once and being able to do it in a weekend. Thanks in advance for any help sourcing everything.

Shawn

_________________
1966 Valiant Signet 170

That "pod with rod" isn't part of your intake manifold, nor is it bolted to it. That's your choke thermostat, and it's bolted to your exhaust manifold. That's the dingus that won't fit/work properly on the new exhaust manifold, the dingus you'll be replacing with the linked electric choke kit (and it's just as well; somebody bent the crap out of your choke thermostat pushrod...electric choke has a new rod with it).

Your intake manifold is fine, and will work with that exhaust manifold you found. All linkage will work as is. An aftermarket intake would make no sense for what you're doing. Your carb looks terrific! I say that because that amount of grime and crust, combined with the presence of its original ID tag, means it probably hasn't been messed with or abusively "remanufactured" and so will respond well to a careful clean and refurbish/rebuild job.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

ok I see the rod is part of the exhaust....lol it is my first slant 6. so the exhaust and carb is the only thing that may need to be addressed. it only bogs a little unit it is warmed up and it will peg the temperature gage sometimes. it will run normal and after driving it sometimes will get hot. so I thought it might be the heat riser stuck open.

any thoughts would be apprciated

_________________
1966 Valiant Signet 170

could the choke being stuck open cause it to stumble? should I unhook it to see what happens?

_________________
1966 Valiant Signet 170

The choke is toast. It's going to cause poor running until the engine is warmed up. Unhooking it won't make things better; if anything it'll make them differently worse. This needs to be fixed with replacement parts already described.

Sounds like you have a sticking coolant thermostat and/or other cooling system issues that need to be addressed, too.

Get the books in this thread quick as you can.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

do you know which kind of carb this is? and where is a good place to order a kit for it? I'm around the charlotte NC area, is there any good shops here that will restore or rebuilt it? if I could find a good core I would experiment on that one. So I seems replacing the exhaust and buying the electric choke and new gaskets is the way to go. I will replace the thermostat and adjust the valves this weekend. Which gasket kit is best to use?

_________________
1966 Valiant Signet 170

That is a Carter BBS carburetor. I can't quite see its type number on the triangular aluminum tag held to the carb by the right front corner bowl screw -- might be № 4100s, which would be correct for 1966 170 engine. You can get a good quality kit from www.daytonaparts.com -- unfortunately, as with all kits sold in the last few years, they don't come with real, usable float gauges. All you get is a useless strip-of-paper ruler. I'm working on a fix for that problem. Refer to my previous posts in this present thread for links to the good manifold gaskets and links to carb rebuild info (or you could send the carb to Daytona Parts or to The Old Carb Doctor or to one of a few other specialists and they could refurbish it for you -- but don't be suckered into buying one of Daytona's "new replacement carburetors", which are not as described)

This list of work you face could be done in a weekend...in a well-equipped garage/shop by someone who's done it before. It's a tall order to do a good job of all of it in one weekend if you've never done it before, especially if you want to clean up and paint the intake manifold as you go along.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My carburetor is a Carter BBS 4100s, just throwing out a call to anyone that might have one that is rebuildable, I am interested in buying it so I can work on it and then just swap them out.

Thanks,

Shawn

Oh and also if any one has AC brackets for this engine I am interested in those also!

_________________
1966 Valiant Signet 170

Your mention of the gauge pegging, leads Me to believe the voltage regulator for the gauges may be sticking . Is the engine actually getting too hot ? You cant always trust the gauges.

I really don't think so, we used a thermal temp reader and it was ok when the gauge was pegged. but this weekend it would go the other way and read no temp for a while and come back up to normal. where is the voltage regulator located on this car, it didn't know they could stick.

_________________
1966 Valiant Signet 170

It's plugged onto the back of the instrument cluster. The smart thing is to replace it with this updated, failsafe one. Note the instrument cluster voltage regulator/limiter drives both the fuel and temp gauges. If both of them peg or zero at the same time, the ICVR is the likely culprit. If one gauge works and the other pegs or zeroes, it's probably not the ICVR making problems, it's more likely the sender or the wire from the sender to the gauge.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

adding that to my list of improvements, as I go.

New question.... Does anyone know if this carburetor will fit the throttle linkage on my 1966 valiant 170, if it will work in the mean time, that would be great. Then I will always have a spare after I have the original restored.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1962-63-carter- ... Bq&vxp=mtr

_________________
1966 Valiant Signet 170