When I bought my '64 Valiant wagon, it came with a Super Six manifold and a Carter BBD that was rebuilt by a local shop in January 2010 and had been sitting in a box ever since. Not knowing a damn thing about the BBD and not wanting to dive into a cable throttle conversion, I got the car running with a Weber 32/36 that I'd modified a long time ago to accept the early A-body throttle rod linkage. Unfortunately, the Weber had also been sitting (with fuel in it) for about 4 years. While it'll start up and drive around the block just fine, it has enough issues to keep the car from being a reliable driver and should probably be rebuilt. Luckily I've acquired a later A-body gas pedal and the correct throttle cable, so now I'm looking at swapping on this Carter BBD that's been sitting in a box for the last 9 years.

So I guess my first question is if there's anything in a BBD that would deteriorate after sitting around dry for that long. If it were a Holley I'd replace the rubber accelerator pump diaphragm without even thinking about it, but I don't know if I need to worry about the seals on the BBD pump plunger. Is there anything else I should check out? Should I just buy a gasket set and plan to tear the whole thing apart?

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

It's better for them to sit dry than with gas residue. I'd throw it on and see how it works. If it doesn't work right, they are simple to deal with and you can replace the accelerator pump cup with the carb on the engine. There has been rumor and innuendo that the ethanol will eat the older rubber cups but I've never seen it happen personally. The worst thing about the ethanol gas is it evaoporates, just like alcohol. Pour some on the concrete and watch how quickly it disappears.

Anyway, good luck.

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1966 Chrysler 300 coupe
1968 Plymouth Valiant 100
1969 Dart Custom 273 V8

I popped off the top cover just to eyeball the vacuum piston and metering rods; everything appears to be moving freely, and the adjustments look pretty simple if it needs them. Guess I'll bolt this sucker on and see how it runs. Just need to figure out which vacuum ports to use and cap off the rest... this thing sure has a lot of vacuum ports.

I had to rebuild a Carter WDO for a pre-war Oldsmobile not too long ago; It's interesting to see the similarities between the two designs.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Well, unless your car has power brakes added to it, it only uses one of the vacuum ports other than one at the rear for the choke pulloff. I'll list them for you:

1. One or two small ports on the front of the baseplate- not used.

2. larger port in the front center of the baseplate- not used. That originally was the signal for the charcoal canister.

3. port that sticks straight out of the passenger side of the carb- this is the timed vacuum port for the distributor, so you'll need that.

4. large port at the bottom rear-That was originally for power brakes or PCV so assuming your engine has a PCV valve, that's where it goes. A genuine Super Six BBD has a curved PCV tube there, no difference in operation.

5. Small port at bottom rear of baseplate-not used.

6. small port roughly in the lower, rear center of carb- that is the connection for the choke pull-off.

7. you may also have a thing on the rear held on by three screws with a vacuum connection. That's not used. Also, you may have a carb bowl vent tube sticking straight out to the passenger side near the top front. If you have it, you can make a small filter for it so it'll vent but not ingest dirt. If it's nonexistent then nothing to worry about. Just don't block the tube off because it'll collect vapor inside the carb after shutdown and make hot restarts a drawn-out affair.

I have a super six I planned to use, but it was a little too much changing and plugging things on an old car to gain 7hp.

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1966 Chrysler 300 coupe
1968 Plymouth Valiant 100
1969 Dart Custom 273 V8

I have that same carb. It is easy to rebuild, I would invest the $25 in the kit and an hour or 2 to get it all cleaned up and rebuilt. I would check that choke pull-off thing to make sure it still can hold vacuum, push in the middle pin, plug the hole with finger and let go of the pushed in pin, see if it holds there. If it does you are good..

You will have to put caps on all the unused ports like the other guy mentioned. Watch out for the little bb balls, there are 2 and they are different sizes.

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

Smaller metal ball goes to the rear. I always remember that by thinking "somebody said I have a small rear" lol.

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1966 Chrysler 300 coupe
1968 Plymouth Valiant 100
1969 Dart Custom 273 V8