I've put my oil pump back together except for the drive gear. Someone here (or on FABO) said that if you heat it, then it will slide on. I put it in the oven at 500, dropped it onto the shaft with tongs, and it went on a tiny bit but then got stuck. I popped it off and tried again, but the same thing happened again. I tried tapping it down with a hammer, but I started seeing metal shavings so I gave up and popped it off again. When I say "popped off" I mean I put the pump on a 2x4 with a hole cut out, and used a brass punch to tap the shaft out through the gear, which is how I got it off in the first place.

Any ideas?

Why did you pull it apart in the first place? Just curious. What was the pressure when you stopped running the motor?

IMHO, the best thing you can do is use the pump that came out, with a stock or reground cam. If you need more pressure, you can put a washer under the relief spring. I have seen quite a few 200k mile pumps that work just fine.

You could try putting the pump body in the freezer, and the gear at 500F, then wipe any condensations off the shaft and drop the gear on. I have never removed a pump gear myself.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I don't have an oil pressure gauge, just a light, but I don't have any reason to think my oil pressure is insufficient. The only reason I pulled the pump apart is because it's 46 years old and I'm rebuilding the engine anyway (and also to learn!). I'm keeping the original camshaft (with a new grind) and I thought it would be nice to keep the same pump with the cam if it's in good condition. The drive gear wear pattern is light, even, and centered, and it turned out all the internal parts of the pump are within factory specs. In hindsight, I probably didn't even need to open it up at all except maybe to replace the gaskets. But I didn't know that until I had it open.

Perhaps DD will chime in.

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Hyper_pak

engine parts in the oven... bet your "other half" loves you for that.... how long did you leave it in there for? just because the oven was 500*, if you didn't heat it long enough, the part may not have been hot enough. I see various instruction manuals saying to heat a container of oil on a hot plate, and dipping parts to be heated, into the oil, for various different parts.
When I worked industrial maintenance, we had an "inductive heater" and these "thermo melt" crayons, a common job was to put these ~6" I.D. bearings on a stub shaft. We would mount the stub shaft on its roller, then pack it in ice bags with ice for a good while, and after a couple of hours of that stub shaft being packed in ice, we'd put the bearing on the inductive heater, heat to 300*F, (check with the thermos melt crayon) grab some heavy gloves (like welding gloves but heavier) and slip the bearing onto the stub. We had to work quick, and we had to be careful to start the bearing straight and once it started on shaft, quickly shove bearing to the step on the stub shaft. If we didn't get bearing started straight and it "stuck" before it was slid on "home", we'd have to torch it off and start all over with another bearing.
I worked swing shift there, and was known to bring in an occasional part from home to work on, while on midnights.... that inductive heater worked great for heating ring gears to set them onto a carrier..... they show in the factory service maual, heating them with a rosebud tip on a torch, before dropping them onto a carrier. this works better..... did that a couple of times, while I worked there.

I have bought a "mini Ductor" which works on the same principle, for heating bolts, etc where a torch might get dangerous (tight quarters, etc) to help get them off without breaking... hears from outside in, so the bolt (or shaft, whatever) is the last thing to get the heat..... works slick, heats a 1/2" nut (shank size, not "Wrench size" pretty quick.... they come with a long "universal" element to wrap around something a little bigger (the book shows a FWD hub bearing being removed, as its example) that might work.... I'd have a way to control how hot I were to get that gear though, in this case..... like those thermomelt crayons.....

She loves me, but not for that.

I did it early in the morning so she wouldn't have to know, but then I forgot to take out the tray that I had the gear on. This afternoon she asked what the tray was in there for. Busted...

I may not have left it in there long enough--it was probably 15 minutes. I thought of freezing the pump, but I didn't try that yet.

if oven was already hot that should have been more than enough... if youre displacing metal on shaft you have a burr that needs to be filed off.... that in itself may have been your hold-up.

an off topic thought about the oven.... I have been thinking of trying some at home powder coating, I have an Eastwood store not too far away that has all the supplies (and a Sunday "how to" clinic about once a month maybe once every other month) and I have heard in the past you want an ELECTRIC oven for that, I see plenty in local classifieds, and garage sales, etc.... for as cheap as used ones go, it might be a decent pickup for the garage.... if you do such things as heating metal parts very often....

I got a $20 propane torch and that did the trick.

cool, gotta be careful with that, that you heat it up evenly all the way around.

I have successfully reinstalled the oil pump gear on a couple of slant pumps. Both times I was installing
a new or different pump and I was wanting to keep the OE gear matched to the re ground cam.
I heat the gear in a garage toster oven to 400 degrees. I keep the gear in the oven at temp for no less than 1/2 hour, after I have confirmed that the gear it at temperatures with an non contact temperature gun, remember the heat needs to penetrate through the gear.
I also flip the gear over during the process.

And this is important, I have the oil pump ready on my work bench and right next to the toaster oven.
By saying the oil pump is ready, it is setting on a stable platform as with only ‘moments’ between pulling the gear from the oven and getting it to the oil pump I have not had a gear simply fall or slide on to the shaft. I have a large brass drift and a 3 lb hammer and give the gear a quick pop to get it in location.
I have made up some thin 1/2 washers that I pre set in place to control how far the gear gets down and to control the free play.

By having the gear in the kitchen oven, it may be cooling on the way to the oil pump, mine seem to go on 1/4 of the way and a hit from the hammer gets em home. Also check for burrs as mentioned.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

DadTruck has got it. Very clear writeup. Gotta be quick.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The previous time I had tried to put the gear on, I had the pump in the kitchen next to the oven, but I suspect I didn't leave the gear in the oven long enough to get it thoroughly heated. As a result, it only went on a little bit before sticking at a slightly tilted angle. Trying to tap it on with a hammer, I galled the inside of the gear a bit (no damage to the shaft; I assume it is a harder metal). After punching the gear off again, I cleaned up its inner surface with a rolled-up piece of sandpaper turned by hand until it seemed smooth.

On the next try, I had the frozen oil pump sitting on my work bench in a freezer bag with just the shaft sticking out, to keep it as cold as possible. I rigged up a wire rack out of a coat hanger held in a vise, set the gear on the improvised rack, and began heating it with the torch. The torch has to be held upright, so I needed access to the gear from beneath. The gear was starting to glow red around the same time the coat hanger started to sag. I used my barbecue tongs to grab the gear before it fell off the sagging wire rack, and slipped it onto the pump shaft with no friction at all. I actually had time to adjust it up and down for a second or two, to get what I think is the right amount of play between the gear and the pump body.

Steel anneals at 1400 to 1550 degrees, that is the temperature where the part glows red. The part is also held at the temperature, depending upon section thickness. Annealing softens the metal.
I am not saying that you did change the metallurgical properties, I am saying that I just don’t want to take that chance. To not induce micro cracks, annealing also heats the part up slowly and evenly.
Using a small box oven to heat the part to 400 F and holding that temperature so the part gets throughly heat soaked has about zero chance of changing the metallurgy or affecting the part structurally.
I got my garage toaster oven at Goodwill, about $10.00 all day long.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8