quick question on stock valve size. can someone specify?

is it the same on ALL slant heads, as-came-from-the-factory? Different for drool tube heads vs peanut heads?

All the heads came with 1.62" intake and 1.36" exhaust valves. The heavy duty 225-3 got better exhaust valves in the same size.

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Joshua

thanks. have a peanut head that is bare that needs "filled" so I can measure the chambers.
also... another question.... when you measure CCs what do you do with the spark plug hole? Screw a spark plug in? or a "dummy" plug" Because I know that the space between the porcelain and threaded shell takes up "some" volume.....

I always plug the hole with a spark plug.
I use the plug type I intend to use on the running engine.
DD

ok thanks. My question about what to use to plug the spark plug hole was because that extra space on the plug shouldn't "count" in chamber volume, was thinking of a solid plug in that hole that would be flush with the chamber side.... but I want to be consistent w/ what everyone else does for when I come back asking for help with the "new math".... haha... Ive done valve work before but never CC'd a head before.
I just won an auction on Feebay for a set of OEM/NOS valves still in the wrapping, for what seemed like a good price.... ex valves # 3698590 and intake # 1947623. would those be the "good" exhaust valves you mentioned, Josh? I have 3 heads here, want to do up 2 of them.
Have some time off of work this week, and looks like at least a couple of days of rain.... want to take the already bare head in for crack checking and start cleaning up casting fuzz.....

Why not? If it takes up space in the chamber it counts in the calc...

Always cc the chamber as you are going to run them...

The engine won't run without spark plugs so they very much count.
Replacement Sealed Power exhaust valves are listed thusly: "SEALED POWER V4093 {#1947624, 3698590, 4070319}" So this one valve replaces those 3 Chrysler numbers and V4093 being a standard valve your 3698590 should be also.

Are you using stock size valves for budget reasons? Can you at least afford a larger intake valve?

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Joshua

sure I could, it isn't that I "cant afford".... otherwise I would not be doing any of this, as this is as of now an "extra" vehicle, I don't have to be in a hurry. and O/S valves in and of themselves certainly wont break the bank.... hafta see what the machine work will entail.... I'm sure that the present seats would need pressed out/ cut out oversize and new ones that coincide with whatever new valves would take, put in.... this particular head has no valves at present....
but I have an ever lengthening thread about "planning an engine build"....I am getting confusing info as to whether I "should" or "have to" go to bigger valves for my purposes.... which is to move a brick of a 1/2 ton truck down the road and be able to easily keep up in traffic, and occasionally pull a popup, or my utility trailer...… though these stock valves ARE pretty puny.
Which ever head I do up for this buildup, I will be doing some port work on it.... Some say this port work is more important for "bang for the buck", some say larger valves are.... at the same time I know that a machine shop will be mandatory to bring the tolerances back into range on the block and crank, I want to do as much of the head work as I can, here, as I can....I have a valve grinder of my own, and seat grinding tools collecting dust.

It is not so much about "being cheap" as it is about "doing things right the 1st time" with the combo of parts and such, and being able to say "look what I built" really meaning I did as much of the work myself as I can..... like they say anyone can open a catalog and write a check.... I don't want that sort of build.... if it makes sense.....
When I was last regularly on this site a few years back the "engine buildr" valves were the hot ticket but I was between slanted power so to speak, and didnt know if or when I'd have another come my way.... now taht I have had that happen I guess those valves are no longer an option. Is Hughes my only choice for O/S valves at the moment? or do I buy another application and have new retainer grooves cut in/ stems lopped off to size?

Slant six heads have integral valve seats so there's no seat to press out. I bring up the intake valve as it's the intake side of the head that needs the most help and if you're budget strapped cutting 6 seats and throats is less money than 12. It's far easier to have someone cut the valve throat oversize than to try to do it with stones. I won't try it again myself.

For overall torque and power it's better to improve the cylinder head than to change valve timing to compensate. In doing so you have a broader power band and more low speed torque. This is why I argue strongly for improving head flow. Since you have a valve grinder you can back-cut stock type valves and improve the flow. Port the area under the valve and streamline the valve guide. Leave the runners their original size, but clean up any major flaws. Do not port match the head or manifolds to the gasket.

SI catalogs the 1.70/1.44" valves. The #1 advantage of those valves is that they drop in with stock sized valve guides and stock valve locks. The disadvantage is that they still use 3/8" valve stems. If your head needs new valve guides then I would use smaller stem Ford or Chevy valves and buy new valve locks (keepers). Since you have a valve grinder you can back-cut stock type valves and improve the flow.

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Joshua

what is the big deal about the 3/8 stem? what is so bad about it? Im not wanting a 7000 RPM screamer here. I'll have to check out that "SI Valve". what you suggest was what I planned on doing to the head as far as port work.
but when you say "streamline the valve guide", should I cut the protrusion into the port down shorter?

Nothing really "bad" about it. My race car with a self ported head and Engine builder valves went 13.8 at 96 mph. So they ain't that bad.

Truth is if you don't need new guides they were very nice to drop in. If you need guides then the smaller stem option will flow a little better, that's all.

If you have your own valve grinder, you could also buy BB mopar exhaust valves at 1.81" and cut them down and back cut them. These can be (Or could have been) had cheap. I bought some for $2.50 each a few year back. Length is correct I believe.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Ok I'll have to look at that (BB valves)
Where are you guys getting your SI valves? I went to their site and all I can see there is "find a distributor" which I then got"not found"
I do see that Oregon cams does list them but no price/availability for those particular ones.

I had recommended to Don that he stay with stock sized valves and use the money saved to buy really good multi angle valve seats.
The thought being in a heavy vehicle that will not be ran north of 4000 RMP the smaller stock valves would increase velocity and mixing. If he had plans to run the motor to 5000 RPM and beyond I agree, go with OS valves. I believe that for at least up to 3500 RPM a stock sized valve with really good seats will flow as well as an OS valve. It is in the higher RPM ranges that OS valves have a pay back.
So put the money where the RPM is.

remember going with the smaller stem valves means new retainers and keepers, if he stays with 3/8 valve stem and a small cam he can likely re use his existing retainers and keepers, get new 318 valve springs,,,

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

This is getting confusing..... OS or don't OS valves?

I bought the valves because of the 3 heads I have, I figured I'd start with one in particular... a peanut plug head without the extra smog holes.... that is completely BARE/ I have another peanut plug head just like it that is "fully dressed".... and a drool tube version ~1974ish probably one of the last drool tube heads made... IDK what but "something" told me to get the bare head checked out 1st and if no terminal issues to go with that one but I honestly cant say what it was, about that head.
I could have stripped one of the other 2 heads and started there.... IDK why I didn't, but so far I haven't.
I currently don't have springs or keepers for that bare head either, got both peanut plug heads from the same guy.... that one came to me bare.
I have a deal riding from a guy on FABO for the rest of the valve hardware..... all 318 stuff.

Believe me this will not wind up a "budget build".... the engine I got to build wasn't all there.... I just want to do it right the 1st time, more than anything....