Long time reader, first time poster. I have a '67 Barracuda /6 which I've been working on for a number of years. I've recently been having some electrical issues and noticed the battery is not being charged by the alternator. Checked the voltage at the alternator and it's anywhere from 25-27V (obviously way too high). Ran a jumper wire from the battery lug on the alternator directly to the ignition side of the voltage regulator (using the original wiring diagram) and voltage at the alternator dropped to zero. The alternator is about five years old and the voltage regulator is about three years old. This looks to me to be a wiring issue to me but I'm having a hard time trying to figure out where the issue is and how to resolve. While poking around on the passenger compartment side of the junction box I did realize that the wire which runs from the alternator to the ammeter is snapped at the junction box but I find it hard to believe the battery is charged through this wire?

Any help would be appreciated. The car has a number of electrical issues (lights dim when driving, had an episode a few weeks ago where all of the lights flashed on and off in the car, checked the main ground but no issues) so I have my work cut out for me. Thought I would bring it to the experts for some help. Thanks in advance!

Yes, the wire from the big terminal on the alternator runs along the valve cover, across the firewall and goes into the passenger compartment (to meet the ammeter) via the bulkhead connector. If that wire is broken there will be no power delivered from the alternator. Fix this first and see where you stand. Be sure to disconnect the battery whenever working on the electrical system. The battery terminal on the alternator should have battery voltage at all times so disconnecting the battery is a must.

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Joshua

Thanks for the reply. So you're saying the alternator charges the battery and the voltage regulator regulates voltage through the ammeter connection?

That's not what I wrote. All of the power from the output terminal of the alternator passes down that wire, through the bulkhead connector and to the ammeter. The battery connects to the other side of the ammeter. We can discuss the voltage regulator if, after you repair the only charging path, we need to.

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Joshua

Was able to jump around the bulkhead connector and connect the wire from the alternator to the ammeter. Voltage started regulating right away and battery began charging. Thanks for the help!

My issue now is how to permanently resolve the issue. The back side of the bulkhead connector where the ammeter wire runs is melted and in poor shape. It looks as if my best options are to (1) replace the entire bulkhead connector or (2) run a permanent bypass wire through another spot in the firewall.

How difficult is the bulkhead connection replacement? Can everything be done from the engine compartment or is the work split between the engine compartment and under the dash?

I had the very same problem with my van. I drilled a hole through an unused part of the bulkhead connector and passed a wire through. It's kinda sleazy, but it's better than drilling the sheet metal.

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Joshua

I had the same problem in 2008 when I got my 67 Dart. First project was to repair the wiring harness, and like your car one of the wires in the charging loop was melted as well as the bulkhead connector. I replaced bulkhead connector, and at the same time sniped off each brass connector one at a time both male and female connectors preventing crossing up any circuits both male and female. I went through the whole car. You need to get a crimping tool to attach new brass connectors, and a wiring diagram just to make sure nothing gets screwed up, and repair any other sections of the harness.

The problem burning holes in bulkhead connector is heat generated by corroded brass connectors trying to pass too much amperage. They heat up just like any resistance element like an electric oven heating element. Also high resistance connections cause voltage drop, over charging problems, dim lights, etc.

Bulkhead connector here ,here, here extra connectors to replace others in harness as needed (BM100, &FM100) here, wire diagram here.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Thanks for the info! Found this article about the "fleet option" since the "P" terminal on the bulkhead connector seems to have so many issues. Still planning on replacing the engine compartment side of the bulkhead connector, but any thoughts on this option. My alternator is rated at 46 amps.

https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html