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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2020 3:12 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Fri May 15, 2020 11:45 am
Posts: 21
Location: Brighton UK
Car Model: Dodge A100 Van 1968
Hi all,

I'm new here, impressed with the quantity and quailty of info. Fantastic. I have a specific challenge on my 68 A100 Van with a stock 225 (upgrades to electronic ignition and carter 2bbd) which I wonder if you can help with.

I have fitted a 2BBD Carter which I believe to be from a slant six (says 0-2681 on the side). It's been rebuilt (in 1987! and sat on a shelf ever since) and I have pulled it apart to confirm all shiny nice clean parts inside. It has a 2 stage accelerator pump that seems to move freely but the shaft sliding was a tiny bit stiff before I cleaned it. All the holes and passages are clear. It is on a home made 2BBL Intake which has been done quite nicely.

When I slowly increase the throttle it revs out just fine. When I blip the throttle it stalls and almost dies then usually backfires through the carb with a mighty flame.

Visually, the accelerator pump does squirt but it seems a tiny bit behind everything else and if I'm not aggressive enough doesn't squirt at all. My only other experience is with Holley 4 barrels and on S&S Super E carbs, where the accelerator pump seems like the first thing to activate almost regardless of how hard the gas is punched. This one, no so much.

I have:
  • Adjusted the carb to factory specs as far as I can tell. This includes the idle screws variations on idle screws starting at around 1.5 turns out and then going both directions to see if it changes. The vac needle lifter so the gap is just over 1mm. The needle lifter set by pushing down the shaft and the tab at the back of the clamp and then tightening. The accelerator pump shaft top is half an inch beneath the airhorm plate, (the flat bit). I think I've understood the instructions but of course I might have misinterpreted them some way.
    Checked timing and actually advanced it 5 deg from TDC just in case it's relevant (no difference)
    Checked for vac leaks and plugged all holes
    There is loads of fuel pressure and the float seems to be adjusted to the correct height
    Adjusted valve lash warm to spec
If I close the choke a fair bit or put my hand over the top, and then blip the gas it seems to in most cases to power on through with no hesitation but then after nearly kills it (through richness I think).

Some possibly relevant background. It came with points and a single barrel holley that had been badly rebuilt and had no accelerator pump activation at all. It did the same thing then. I swapped out the ignition for electronic and it persisted. I replaced the intake with the current set up, using a modified single intake enlarged to take a carter 2bbd. Despite some accelerator pump action it seems to persist. I still think it's to do with the accelerator pump.

It's a project with a motor that seems in pretty good condition. The bottom end has just been rebuilt before I bought it by people I know. When I got it, it had the points ignition and a single barrel holley. It started up after I fixed a fuel line problem, ran and immediately blew the head gasket so I rebuilt the top end, reground the valves and put it all back together again with lovely new modern gaskets.

Any help would be gratefully accepted. thanks, Jamie.

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Based in Brighton in the UK. Dodge A100 Van & a 51 Panhead


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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2020 8:01 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Fri May 15, 2020 11:45 am
Posts: 21
Location: Brighton UK
Car Model: Dodge A100 Van 1968
Thought a video might help... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwvsKJdyDkQ

You can see it's poorly...

I have also tried turning the metering rods in and out 1 turn to see if it makes a difference.

Cheers, Jamie.

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Based in Brighton in the UK. Dodge A100 Van & a 51 Panhead


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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2020 8:40 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1603
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Welcome link to acceleraator pump. https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopi ... 19&t=64866


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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2020 9:49 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Fri May 15, 2020 11:45 am
Posts: 21
Location: Brighton UK
Car Model: Dodge A100 Van 1968
Thanks Mat, I'm working my way through these at present. I'll double check the valve balls are seating right. Especially the one at the pump base.

Thanks, Jamie.

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Based in Brighton in the UK. Dodge A100 Van & a 51 Panhead


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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2020 11:13 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24515
Location: North America
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Wow, that's quite the misfire/spitback. Have you checked for vacuum leaks where the inlet manifold meets the head? Also, that 1bbl choke thermostat bent and tortured to connect to the 2bbl carb is not going to come close to working correctly. Make life easy on yourself and fit a № 1232 Electric choke kits.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Also see tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post.

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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2020 10:53 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Fri May 15, 2020 11:45 am
Posts: 21
Location: Brighton UK
Car Model: Dodge A100 Van 1968
Hey great thanks. I'm going to start again, using what I find here. There is reference in one of the threads to you doing a carter BBD setup in a video but I can't see reference to it anywhere. If it exists can you point me to it?

Cheers, Jamie.

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Based in Brighton in the UK. Dodge A100 Van & a 51 Panhead


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PostPosted: Sun May 17, 2020 11:28 am 
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Who…me? I don't have a vid like that.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2020 3:43 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Fri May 15, 2020 11:45 am
Posts: 21
Location: Brighton UK
Car Model: Dodge A100 Van 1968
OK in the process of rebuilding and double checking everything, when looking at the Carter manual it suggests that my step up piston is from a 318 and not a 225. On the 225 there is a shorter allowable stroke because the travel between the limiters is smaller, reduced at both ends. I'm struggling to find what the actual difference in gap is anywhere and wondered if anyone has attempted to modify it or if there is a good place to buy the correct parts from. Looking up carter parts so far has not produced anything.

Thanks, Jamie.

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Based in Brighton in the UK. Dodge A100 Van & a 51 Panhead


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2020 6:48 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Fri May 15, 2020 11:45 am
Posts: 21
Location: Brighton UK
Car Model: Dodge A100 Van 1968
Quote:
OK in the process of rebuilding and double checking everything, when looking at the Carter manual it suggests that my step up piston is from a 318 and not a 225. On the 225 there is a shorter allowable stroke because the travel between the limiters is smaller, reduced at both ends. I'm struggling to find what the actual difference in gap is anywhere and wondered if anyone has attempted to modify it or if there is a good place to buy the correct parts from. Looking up carter parts so far has not produced anything.

Thanks, Jamie.
Here are a couple of pictures of what I have...

Image

Image

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Based in Brighton in the UK. Dodge A100 Van & a 51 Panhead


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2020 10:36 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1603
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Watched the video ,no oil at rocker? Meter rod arm,black the v8 one. At top of piston that little wire goes behind both metering rods. On the left side is right, on the right side the wire is in front. Looks like v8 carb and v8 step-up piston,which is fine. V8 carbs will run just fine on slants. Some adjustments may be needed.


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2020 11:21 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1603
Car Model:
Is there holes in throttle plate? Does it seem to idle too fast. Ball seat has been checked. Warm engine up, shut off engine pull top off carb check actual level of fuel. On the slant six carbs with there smaller venturi and higher vacuum a lower fuel level not much difference. On that pump adjustment instead of 1/2 inch try custom adjustment, some carbs were set at 15/32 try 7/16. Safety first after adjusting pump or metering rod with engine off by hand go to full throttle a few times. Some times if adjustment too far off metering rod or pump can hang up not allowing safe return to curb idle.


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2020 11:29 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1603
Car Model:
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopi ... &hilit=tsb Old thread


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2020 12:01 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Fri May 15, 2020 11:45 am
Posts: 21
Location: Brighton UK
Car Model: Dodge A100 Van 1968
Quote:
Watched the video ,no oil at rocker? Meter rod arm,black the v8 one. At top of piston that little wire goes behind both metering rods. On the left side is right, on the right side the wire is in front. Looks like v8 carb and v8 step-up piston,which is fine. V8 carbs will run just fine on slants. Some adjustments may be needed.
Thanks Mat.

There's oil at the rockers. Good to know it's the V8. I will adjust the wire, what does it actually do? Is it to hold the needles in place? Is it OK to adjust the needle height from factory? Theoretically I could lift the needles to richen it up a bit because i think it's running lean at the low end...

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Based in Brighton in the UK. Dodge A100 Van & a 51 Panhead


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2020 12:08 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Fri May 15, 2020 11:45 am
Posts: 21
Location: Brighton UK
Car Model: Dodge A100 Van 1968
Quote:
Is there holes in throttle plate? Does it seem to idle too fast. Ball seat has been checked. Warm engine up, shut off engine pull top off carb check actual level of fuel. On the slant six carbs with there smaller venturi and higher vacuum a lower fuel level not much difference. On that pump adjustment instead of 1/2 inch try custom adjustment, some carbs were set at 15/32 try 7/16. Safety first after adjusting pump or metering rod with engine off by hand go to full throttle a few times. Some times if adjustment too far off metering rod or pump can hang up not allowing safe return to curb idle.
No holes in throttle plate. I have whacked the ball with a punch and put a new one in at the bottom of the float bowl but not doe this with the one in the carb throat as I lack a small ennough punch at present and it's hard to get on it and I don't want to damage the carb. Other than that i'm not sure how to test either.

Idles wherever I tell it to, but I have not actually driven it yet. This is all sat on the drive.

Have adjusted float but not done a running check to see where the levels are after hot. The pump seems pretty effective. I've tried different pump settings but worth another shot I think. It's driving me insane... I'd check the cam slack but I can't get the engine to turn backwards successfully yet. Heh.

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Based in Brighton in the UK. Dodge A100 Van & a 51 Panhead


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PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2020 12:25 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Fri May 15, 2020 11:45 am
Posts: 21
Location: Brighton UK
Car Model: Dodge A100 Van 1968
Actually I have a spare manifold gasket. I am tempted before I do anything else to double up the manifold gaskets and retorque. Also... 10ft/lbs doesn't seem like a huge amount to me do other variants torque the manifold bolts tighter?

Any thoughts on this?

Cheers, Jamie.

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Based in Brighton in the UK. Dodge A100 Van & a 51 Panhead


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