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 Post subject: Weber 38 DGES problems
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 8:45 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2020 8:03 am
Posts: 24
Location: California
Car Model: Mopar
I rebuilt my slant over the summer. Added an electronic ignition, Super six intake and Weber 38 carb. Car ran pretty good but idled a little rough. I pulled the carb and adjusted the float although I was not confident it was done correctly. I found about a dozen different opinions and instructions on doing this. Very confusing. Car runs exactly the same but now after the car sits for a couple days, I have to crank the car over for about 15 seconds before it starts. Seems like the float bowl is leaking and has to refill before it will start. Any advice?


Last edited by briwill on Tue Mar 26, 2024 7:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 2201
Location: Everett, WA
Car Model:
If you could answer the following, then maybe we can help.

1) Is the flapper valve on the exhaust manifold working?
2) Do you have a heat shield between the carburetor and intake manifold?
3) What is the fuel pressure to the carburetor?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 26, 2020 9:25 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jun 09, 2007 7:20 am
Posts: 290
Location: Portland, Or.
Car Model: '64 Valiant Convertible
I also experience a similar phenomenon on my '64 with super 6 and Carter BBD. I do have a thin aluminum heat shield between the carb and manifold.

I attribute it to the exhaust heat boiling or just evaporating the fuel in the float bowl, or some sort of leak down of the fuel between the fuel pump and carb, or both. I just expect to crank a bit longer after the car has sat a while. On the plus side, it begins to build oil pressure before firing off.

When I pull into the garage with a hot car, I immediately lift the hood to allow the heat to escape and reduce the boil and gasoline fume issue in the garage.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:33 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2020 8:03 am
Posts: 24
Location: California
Car Model: Mopar
I don't think heat is an issue and I do have a fuel regulator set at 3psi. Even if I run the engine for a few minutes, and shut it off. I have the same issue the next day. It seems like a float/bowl issue but finding clear instructions on setting the float is difficult. I don't think it is related to the rough idle problem but I will soon do a compression check to rule out any mechanical issues.


Last edited by briwill on Tue Mar 26, 2024 7:44 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 09, 2020 3:48 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7413
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
It's been a long time since I had a Weber on anything... So just a random thought.

Idle air bleeds plugged? Is the idle air mix behaving properly?

CJ

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2020 1:11 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2020 8:03 am
Posts: 24
Location: California
Car Model: Mopar
The carb is brand new so I doubt anything is plugged. Yes, the air mixture screws are behaving normally.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2021 10:29 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Oct 17, 2011 5:53 pm
Posts: 182
Location: San Diego California
Car Model: 1982 D150
Do you have an electric fuel pump?
Or a mechanical?

I have an electric fuel pump,, and every morning, the fuel line is empty. I guess I have to add a check valve.. I do not have my fuel pump connected to the oil pressure meter because of that reason. I let the electronic pump run about 10 seconds,, and truck starts right up every time..

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