Is there a consensus on which years are most desirable for the engine block?

Thanks.

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

This table will give you an idea of the differences. What is "BEST" might depend upon what you want to do with it.. Some want a forged crank, others prefer a cast crank and later block because it is lighter..


https://www.slantsix.org/articles/parts-matrix/jpg.htm

And more engine block info:
https://slantsix.org/articles/dutra-blo ... blocks.htm

Really depends... What are your goals?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

In no expert but have heard that the early 70s with "BH" cast next to the casting number was the sturdiest of the bunch.

Thanks, guys. I have the new Dutra book and the info.

My goal is to have a reasonably well performing and sturdy reliable engine for a close to daily driver in my D100. Some highway driving and long trips.

Right now I have had piston problems for the second time in my 71 block in the Dodge. Wondering if having a 9.5:1 compression head and the Erson RV cam is overtaxing the engine.

I do need to check what cranks will fit the torque converter in the 71 727 transmission.
Would also like to be able to use the current head and maybe transfer the cam.

But also curious about the later smog engines and not having to adjust valve lash due to hydraulic cam and no plug tubes.

SO still looking for input.

Thanks for responses.

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

If you are "really" 9.5 -1 CR and a mild cam, you might be getting into detonation. That will raise hell with the pistons. I had 9.5 and the mild Mopar performance cam, in a 170 engine, and had a hell of a time with the dist advance, to keep from pinging

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Realistically, any block would be fine for this use.

The hydraulic valvetrain parts are in the head and lifters, and not the block, so you could graft the hydraulic setup onto any block you chose if you're so inclined. If you are having trouble with damaged pistons, I would suspect detonation as well, and check the timing and fueling.

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Matt Cramer
1966 Dodge Dart turbo / EFI project

Info links were EXTREMELY helpful. Thanks!

I had thought that if there weren't sparkplug tubes the lifters were hydraulic. Glad to know that isn't always the case.

Charrlie S.--thanks for insight about compression.

Right now I am looking at a slant with a casting number of 330 4.

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

This is not a problem with the year/type of block. Either the machine shop is screwing up, or your tuneup is way off and you are getting detonation.

Or, overrevving? What kind of RPMs are you turning and by some chance is your tach set to V8 instead of 6 cyl? I only ask this because one of our racers blew at least 2 motors before he figured out he was turning 33% more RPMs than he thought...

Any Slant block/crank/pistons can handle about double the HP you are making, if tuned reasonably well.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks, Dart 270.

I should clarify a couple of things. Before I switched to gas, I was running propane, so the octane was pretty high and less likely to detonate.

Also, as I am looking at replacing the engine, I was wondering, if I had a choice, what blocks to look for.

Not currently running a tach, but good points when I re-install.

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Joe Hoppe

71 D100 225 Super Six 727 AT on 2008 Crown Vic CopCar frame

64 Valiant Wagon 225 904 AT 3:23 8.75"

OK, sounds good. First choice would be any block w/o excessive corrosion or previous overbore past about 0.030". The mid 80s shortblock assy (cast crank but good to 350+ HP) weighs about 35# less than earlier engines, so that is nice. For all out strength, most people look for the early 70s block with "BH" casting. The very early 60-61 (maybe 62?) engines have a very heavy crank, so avoid those. Some people like the yellow industrial blocks since some internal parts were shot peened.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

My preference is the easiest one to get to on the pile. Unless you are building some super duper class type motor there really isn't enough difference to lose sleep over.

The first door car into the 10's had a lightweight cast crank motor in it.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

you mean "off" the pile?