Problem:
TRW forged 2.2 non turbo flat top pistons. Need to use with the 198 style con rod. Unable to find a afforable set of 198 rods, either stock or rebuilt with ARP bolts. For what it would cost to do the oem 198 rods (at the prices i'm finding) I would be better off get the K-1 or Molner rods. Here is where the problem comes in. The 2.2 "non turbo" pistons are for a press fit pin (no lock ring grooves in the pin hole). The aftermarket rods are for a full floating pin. I can think of a couple of cures, but would like to get (affordable) suggestions. I got a good deal on the pistons, and would like to use them. I can swing the money for the aftermarket rods, but don't want high dollar, cures.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

How about Teflon wrist pin buttons?

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--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
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I thought about them. Need to check into if feasible, and where to get them.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

The above & getting reciever grooves cut in the slugs for clips is about it for choices. You could ask if they can finish the K1s for a press-fit, but that smells pricey. Teflon buttons would be most cost effective IMO.

If You know someone with a lathe, McMaster Carr sells 1" rod by the foot, Delrin, PTFE, Glass-filled PTFE, Rulon, etc...

I just looked at the pistons, and the buttons don't look feasible. These are "slipper" skirt style, and the side of the piston lower skirt is pretty far away from the cyl wall.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Ahhh, then not enough room even for clips, press-fit rods or sell the pistons...what comp.ht. are they?

Charlie, if I understand the issue correctly, Teflon buttons won’t work because there is no support at the piston pin bore extending out to the cylinder bore to hold the buttons in place.
A way to provide support would be to TIG weld the support on. If the support was made from a section of aluminum pipe that matched the ID of the piston pin bore some fabrication time and expense could be saved. But the support could be made from aluminum billet. Bring the outside ends in to clear the cylinder bore by .030 or so and there would be no need to profile that end. Certainly where the fabrication met the piston it would need to be a good fit. And I would want someone with really good welding experience.
Just an idea.

and, here is a post that goes into some high-tech piston pin buttons, these protrude out from the piston and could also be a possible solution for you.

http://blog.wiseco.com/what-are-wrist-pin-buttons

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

The piston dia in the area of the area of the pin, is quite a bit smaller then the main diameter. Doing welding on the piston, is not feasible. Would probably distort the piston, and be too expensive. It would probably be more feasable to shorten the pin (if neccessary), and put lock grooves in the pin hole. So far it looks like geting another set of 198 rods is the best option. if I can find a set. I do Have a line on a set of stock 198 rods. Just waitng for a reply

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Nothing more expensive then a "free thingy", or something that was a "good deal".

The cheapest and easiest way would be to send the pistons to a piston maker and have them cut grooves for the locks. That's because they are 'instantly familiar' with the operation and won't have setup issues or questions. Now....finding a piston maker who exists in the USA...

Three that I know of - CP Pistons, JE Pistons, Wiseco...

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--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--

Is there enough room to put a bolt through the wrist pin with a washer on each side?


Just kidding

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

The bolt idea that Dennis mention would be a low cost solution that could be implemented with normal garage tools.
To do that, use Teflon buttons as mentioned earlier. Run a bolt through the piston pin from one end to the other, with the bolt head and the retaining nut being in countersunk cavities in the outboard ends of the buttons. One could add more stability to the buttons by having them print into the hollow piston pins a bit.

With Dennis’s ideas and my implementation plans, we could be the most innovative engineering duo since the Dodge Brothers.

And I think Charlie’s garage would be the perfect site to put this plan into action!

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.