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PostPosted: Tue May 03, 2022 2:41 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2004 9:36 pm
Posts: 363
Car Model:
I have a 61' Valiant and fitted the Pertronix electronic ignition system when I did the restoration about 12 years ago.

Since the resto I have driven about 38,000 miles without a problem. Just check/set the timing; one of the best improvements I have done.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2022 4:50 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Nov 24, 2014 6:13 am
Posts: 44
Location: Pine bush newyork
Car Model: 72 valiant
Hello,
Agreed. Installed mine about 15 years ago. Never a failure.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2022 5:40 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
User avatar

Joined: Wed Apr 30, 2003 6:43 pm
Posts: 963
Location: SoCal
Car Model: Toad Wagon
No argument here, been using'em for El Toad and the animation mill in the float for two decades now. 8)

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 02, 2022 5:16 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 7778
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
I have 2 of them.

One in the '69 dart... about ~ 17 years ago and 20,000 Miles and in my '64 Dart about 3 years ago with ~9,000 miles.

Never any trouble with them.
Good parts.

Greg

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2022 5:06 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2012 12:26 pm
Posts: 62
Location: At My Desk
Car Model:
It's been about 10 years for me. Not one problem ever with the Pertronix! But as it just happens, it may have given up the ghost just this last month. I'm not sure yet. I have to finish repairing a bad connector at the engine firewall (the 8-way).

74

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 3:01 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2012 12:26 pm
Posts: 62
Location: At My Desk
Car Model:
Hey guys, while I'm waiting for a reply to my Packard 58 connector question on another thread, I was wondering if anyone knows if a voltage reading of 10.82 at the coil + terminal is enough for the Pertronix Ignitor II module to create a spark.

Mine isn't sparking, but I believe it's 10v or less and the unit shuts itself off. If so, that means mine is fried. Based on that belief I ordered up a replacement. But more knowledge is always good.

Thanks,
74

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2022 3:07 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 7450
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Run a jumper wire directly to the unit from the battery to test it. Why do you only have 10.8 volts there is the question.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2022 11:31 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2012 12:26 pm
Posts: 62
Location: At My Desk
Car Model:
The short answer is that the connector at the firewall isn't making a good connection.

The long answer is I had done some voltage drop testing on the run/start/ign. circuits after my car had 2 miss starts and a 3rd no start/no spark.

The cars a daily driver and I knew I had some problems in that circuit that I couldn't address the last couple of years (long story), mainly hi resistance in the wiring after an alternator blue out several years back (it took out the alt. B+ wire to the bulk head, the battery wire fusable link, the bulk head pos. terminals for each and the ignition switch connector red pin.

I replaced all damaged wires, cons., parts, etc. I rewired the circuit to bypass the bulkhead con.. with circuit brakers at the bat. and alt.. I used 8 ga. wire from bat. (at the starter relay) to alt. and added a fuse block and wired it off of the relay. It's relay to fuse block to fire wall grommet to red 12 ga. wire behind bulkhead connector. going to switch. The amp meter was disconnected the previous year. It's got a volt ga. connected to I believe it's #6 int. fuse block (for gauges). Also at this time I took the bulkhead connector apart and cleaned up the terminals with small ign. file and lubed with dielectric grease and replaced the seal.

What I didn't catch at that time was that the run circuit wires, blue #14 ga. had gotten crispy and had high resistance, the reason why I didn't think of looking was I had just replaced the 18 ga. originals a year earlier because the connector at the bulkhead was shorting and I rerouted it thru a firewall grommet to the ign. switch. And I didn't think of the brown #14 ga. run/start wire/cons. going to the coil. So this time I went thru every inch of that circuit.

Now the only thing left that tested bad is the 8 way connector at the engine firewall. It's got about 1 volt of a drop there. The connector has to much play and it's actually turning to powder on parts of it. :lol: So, I need a new one. I've got a separate post on that.

The circuit was overcharging for the last couple of years, not a lot, but just enough (just over 15v)! I think that's why the Pertronix went out kind of early compared to you other guys. The coil tested good. The list of items (this time around) that tested bad is as follows:

Ignition switch, blue run circuit wires/terminals, brown run/start circuit wires/terminals, alternator (bad diodes) and belt (bad), voltage reg. (just for the hell of it, can't test with the car not running), Pertronix ign. module is on it's way ( I believe it shuts off at 10v or less and I'm getting 10.82). It was also due for it's tune-up so I replaced the Plugs, rotor, cap, air filter.

I think that's it. I'll try the jumper wire this week end. I can only work on the car on the week ends because of the apartment police/spys. Get this the apartment complex new owners mandated no working on cars, if you do they will tow your vehicle and you will have to pay impound and towing fees and a fine on the first offence. :evil: The reason is because if you work on your car you make the apartments look like low class. But they love to tell me how cool my car looks! How stupid can you be! Anyway.

Thanks, 74

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2022 2:11 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 7450
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
no working on cars,


If you are lucky the apartment owners car will break down and he will pop the hood. Then you can file a complaint and have his car towed. :D :D Yeah I know it would never work that way. Good luck.

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
Image
12.80 @ 102.88
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2022 10:26 am 
Offline
3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2012 12:26 pm
Posts: 62
Location: At My Desk
Car Model:
Here's a twist. I got my new module thurs. and went to put it in yesterday. I decided cause of the heat and to check a few other things I would just pull the distributor and make the swap on the bench. So I pulled the cap and tried to line up the rotor and the rotor didn't move either way when I rotated the engine fan. :shock: I unbolted the hold down screw and as I pulled the dist... No drag from the gears. Needless to say the distributor gear is stripped.

The question that comes to mind is. What kind of a meter reading at the coil + terminal would I expect to see in this situation and would it be no spark, spark at first,???. And would it fry the module or coil. It's like leaving the switch on if the rotor was in the right place or am I wrong.

I'm curious now cause I'm not certain the old Pertronix module is really dead.

Thanks,
74

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